THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 149 



degrees as possible. Never have it warmer than 

 this; and the nearer the freezing point it can be 

 crowded without actually freezing, the better. 



Be sure all stuff is thoroughly cooled in the fall 

 before closing the doors for winter. Then keep it 

 dark. Always use a lantern and under no circum- 

 stances allow the daylight to enter. Have a ther- 

 mometer always in the cellar, and should the tem- 

 perature threaten to go too low, place a lantern 

 on the floor of the cellar for a while. A lighted 

 lantern will raise the temperature of a 2,000-bushel 

 cellar about two degrees in 24 hours. 



Take as much pains to keep the cold in, in spring, 

 as to keep it out in winter. To this end, as soon 

 as spring is near, cover the earth on top of the 

 cellar with manure or straw, put on thickly so as 

 to keep the frost in the ground as late as possible. 

 Keep doors shut tight to keep cold in. Thus you 

 have a little storage plant in the spring and early 

 summer; and when others must sell stuff at what 

 they can get, or see it rot or wither, you can hold 

 your goods from four to eight weeks longer, and 

 then sell at your own price. 



" By following these directions," writes F. B. 

 McLeran of Minnesota, " I have kept year after 

 year all kinds of vegetables until late into the 

 spring and summer. I have kept potatoes in first- 

 class shape until August, cabbage until June 25, 

 carrots until June 15, beets until August, rutabagas 

 until August, and parsnips until May. 



"A word as to construction. I believe the com- 

 ing age is going to be the cement age. In any 

 event, I prefer the cement root cellar. Floor, sides, 

 and roof all should be of cement. Next to this use 

 stone or brick, and, if you have nothing else, use 

 wood. Place tile under walls and floor. Provide 



