THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 227 



" In November, with a strong team and plow, we 

 turn out the oldest or poorest roots for transplant- 

 ing. If the ground is wet, we set the large roots 

 on edge and allow them to dry a day or more, per- 

 haps a week. The soil is then removed with a pick 

 by striking the side farthest from the crown. The 

 roots are divided by breaking apart and some must 

 be cut with a heavy knife or hatchet. Our aim is 

 to have two or more uninjured eyes in each plant. 



" Any soil that will grow corn will do for rhu- 

 barb, but the freer it is from grass roots the better, 

 and it must not contain quack grass. Prepare the 

 soil as for wheat, then with a two-horse plow draw 

 furrows 5 or 6 feet apart, as deep as you can plow, 

 going twice to the row. The land will now be 

 ready for the roots, which should be set about 3 

 feet apart, eyes up and enough soil drawn in by 

 hand to hold the roots in place. 



" The setter is followed by a man with a shovel, 

 who places four or five shovels of soil on each 

 plant in a mound, leaving the furrow open between 

 the hills. These open places are filled with manure 

 and some put over the mound, after the ground 

 is frozen enough to bear a team. Level culture is 

 given in the spring. Large weeds and seed stalks 

 are promptly removed. No hoeing is required. 

 Old plantations are cultivated after the crop is 

 marketed. 



" Transplanting rhubarb can be done as success- 

 fully in the fall as in early spring. The ground 

 works better, we have more time, and the plants 

 get an earlier start in the spring. After first sea- 

 son's growth we mulch liberally in November and 

 December with coarse manure or litter of almost 

 any kind. 



