HYACINTHS. 275- 



are sunk about three or four inches deep, -and it is re- 

 commended to put a small quantity of clean sand below 

 and all around each. As the roots are liable to be in- 

 jured by frost, it is usual to cover the beds with decayed 

 tanners' bark, with litter, or with awnings. The first 

 may be considered the neatest during winter, but an 

 awning is nearly indispensable in spring, when the lin- 

 gering colds prove exceeding hurtful to the young flow- 

 er-j^tems. The awning may be made of coarse sheeting 

 or duck. As the flower-stems appear, they are tied to 

 little rods to keep them upright and preserve them from 

 accident. In order to perfect the colors, the rays of the 

 sun are admitted in the morning or in the evening, but 

 the glare of mid-day and the cold of night are both ex- 

 cluded. When the season of blossom is over, the awn- 

 ing is removed, or only replaced to keep off heavy rains. 

 Much of the success, in the culture of this flower, de- 

 pends on the subsequent management of the bulbs. It 

 is the practice in Holland, about a month after the 

 bloom, or when the tips of the leaves assume a withered 

 appearance, to dig up the roots, and, cutting off the 

 stem and the foliage within half an inch of the bulb, 

 but leaving the fibres untouched, to lay the bulbs side^ 

 ways on the ground, covering them with half an inch of 

 dry earth. After three weeks, they are again taken up, 

 cleaned, and removed to the store-room. In this coun- 

 try, it is more common to allow them to stand till the 

 leaves be withered, and then to dig them up at once. 

 In the store-room the roots should be kept dry, well air- 

 ed, and apart from each other. " 



Where forcing is practiced, a few hyacinths" may be 

 forced in deep flower-pots filled with light earth, and, 

 when coming into flower, transferred to the green-house, 



