Row to Raise Early and Late Tomatoes 165 



the open ground better than those not transplanted 

 before being set in their permanent places. At least two 

 plantings should be made to keep up a full supplj^ of 

 first-class fruit, since late tomatoes on old vines are 

 rarel}^ up to the standard. The first crop should be 

 transplanted in the open as earl}^ as the season will 

 allow. Risk part of the earh^ crop even before all danger 

 of frost is past, but prepare to protect the plants if 

 threatened. Several important advantages will be gained 

 bj^ setting the plants below the general surface of the 

 soil. First, the plants are easilj^ protected in such posi- 

 tion from frost. Second, the cutworm does not like to 

 go down below the general surface after his victim. 

 Third, the tomato plant has to bear the brunt of the hot- 

 test season; and, if its roots are deep in a well -manured 

 furrow, it will withstand heat and drought. The tomato 

 readily takes root along the stem, and thus is able to 

 utilize the plant -food in the surface soil, no matter how 

 deeply its original roots are placed. 



For a later crop, sow the seed in open ground where 

 some of the plants may remain permanently. Draw the 

 surplus plants and set them deeply as just described, in 

 order that they may the better withstand a drought in 

 the fall. If the plant is ten inches high, put six inches 

 into the soil. If the supply of plants for the fall crop is 

 deficient, long cuttings, taken from bearing plants, may 

 be used as follows: Take cuttings fifteen to eighteen 

 inches long, from healthy bearing vines. Having the soil 

 already properly prepared, open holes six inches or more 

 deep, pour a quart of water into each hole and, before 

 it is absorbed, put in the cutting in an inclined position. 



