Training of the Tomato Vine 167 



"early bird" and get out before sun-up and, being 

 guided by tbe plants that have been victimized, search 

 out the cause of the trouble and destroy it. The cut- 

 worm does its work at night and on ch)udy mornings, 

 going into the soil for protection during bright days. 



As soon as the plants are transplanted, stir lightly 

 around them. If it becomes necessary to water them, 

 either dig a hole by them or drive a stout stake near the 

 roots; remove the stake and pour water into these holes 

 and, after the water has soaked into the soil, cover the 

 wet places with dr}" soil. 



If dwarf varieties are planted, lay off the rows three 

 feet apart and set the plants two feet apart in the row. 

 If large -growing varieties are used, let the rows be four 

 feet apart and the plants three feet in the row. Cultivate 

 shallow and frequently, stirring the surface as soon 

 after every rainfall as the surface is dry enough, to 

 prevent the formation of a crust, and conserve the soil 

 moisture by means of the surface mulch. 



If planted on a large scale, no training of the vines 

 can be done, but in the family garden the vines should 

 be kept off the ground l\v such means as may be most 

 convenient in each case. If the vines are not allowed to 

 trail upon the ground, a larger yield will be secured and 

 rotting reduced to a minimum. If one has time to give 

 regular and systematic attention to them, the best plan 

 is to tie each plant to a stout stake driven securely into 

 the ground and rising four feet above. Pinch out all the 

 small limbs which put forth from the axils of the leaves 

 below the point wliere the plant branches and forms a 

 cluster of flowers on one of the branches. Pinch off the 



