168 Southern Oardener^s Practical Manual 



bud from the branch bearing the flower -cluster, and 

 allow the other branch to continue growing. Repeat 

 this as often as the plant forks and a flower- cluster 

 is formed. If inferior specimens appear in the cluster 

 of tomatoes, remove them; this will very decidedly 

 increase the size of those left. Treated in this way, 

 the cultivation of the plants may be continued through- 

 out the season, and the fruit will be finer than by any 

 other method I have tried, while there will be practically 

 no rot. Besides, the fruit being fully exposed, the 

 parent of the tomato worm is not so likely to deposit 

 its eggs upon it. 



The tomato is subject to two serious diseases; viz., 

 what is commonly known as the "bud-end rot" and the 

 leaf -blight. No satisfactory preventive has been found 

 for the former. Spraying early and frequently with 

 Bordeaux mixture will prevent the latter. 



The cutworm and boll -worm — the latter is identical 

 with the cotton -boll worm — and the corn -worm which 

 attacks the green ears of corn, also attack the tomato. 

 The first has already been discussed. The latter cannot 

 be reached after it enters the fruit. It is wise, however, 

 to destroy all infested fruit, to prevent the development 

 of the larva into the mature insect, its parent. 



Tomatoes should not be allowed to become thoroughly 

 ripe on the vines, but should be gathered as soon as 

 they begin to change color and stored on shelves in the 

 shade to ripen, the specimens not touching. This is 

 especially important if the vines trail on the ground, 

 since, if the weather is moist, those touching the ground 

 often rot as soon as ripening commences. 



