18 THE GRAPE CULTURIST. 



well-decomposed manure that may be at hand, or old 

 sods or muck ; if the latter is used, a peck of ashes to 

 the square rod, or half that quantity of lime, may be 

 added, with good effect. The whole soil should be 

 worked over at least eighteen inches deep, either with 

 the plow or spade. 



The roots of the vines should be carefully spread 

 out, so that no two will come in contact ; then sprinkle 

 the soil among them, covering so that the upper bud on 

 the four-inch stem will be just above the ground ; this 

 will give about three inches of soil above the upper tier 

 of roots, which is sufficient for young plants, and more 

 than this would be injurious. After the vine is planted 

 press the soil down with the foot, so that it shall be firm, 

 but not packed. A good strong stake, say one and a 

 half inches in diameter, and six to eight feet long, should 

 now be put down by each plant to tie it to as it grows. 

 Let but one shoot grow, and pinch off all side branches 

 as they appear ; keep the vine tied to the stake so that 

 it shall not get broken off by the wind, and thereby 

 checked in growth. Keep the ground clear of weeds, and 

 stir the surface often with the hoe or rake, but never deep 

 enough to reach the roots. On very loose and porous 

 soils it is better to mulch the plants ; but if the soil is a 

 compact loam, or somewhat clayey, then it is better to 

 hoe often than to mulch, because if you cover up soils 

 that are naturally compact, they will hold too much 

 moisture, and sometimes become soured for want of 

 aeration. 



At the end of the season's growth, and just before 

 the ground freezes, the vines should be pruned, by cut- 

 ting them back to within eight or ten inches of the 

 ground ; then bank up the soil about them, or bend 

 them down, and then cover them ; if covered with straw 

 or leaves, there is danger of their being destroyed by 

 mice. All that is now required is to protect them 



