CABBAGE. 69 



together, so as to guard against their being drawn up. 

 In the second or third week of July they should be trans- 

 planted into the permanent bed, in rows three feet apart, 

 and two feet from plant to plant. As they progress in 

 growth, they should receive three or four deep hoeings 

 and be slightly earthed up. 



For the different ways of preserving cabbage during the 

 winter, see the chapter on Preserving Vegetables. 



Cabbage is very liable to be what is called club-footed, 

 when grown two or more years in succession on the same 

 soil; it should therefore always be grown succeeding peas, 

 beets, carrots, parsnips, or some other crop dissimilar to 

 itself, and never after cauliflowers, kohl-rabi, German 

 greens, or any other cruciferous plants. This disease 

 shows itself in the form of radish-like swellings of the stem 

 or of knotty protuberances on the roots, and is generally 

 discernible on the young plants in the seed bed at the tune 

 of transplanting. All such plants should be thrown away. 

 Soil has much to do with clubbing, which is more prevalent 

 on poor, gravelly soils, than upon those that are deep and 

 rich. Some persons think that the disease is due to the 

 larvae of an insect, as the grub of some insect is almost 

 always found in the diseased part, but insects being found 

 in these abnormal growths is not always proof that the 

 insects have produced them, for many insects seek such 

 growths in which to lay their eggs. Others think that it 

 is due to the exhaustion from the soil of some constituent 

 necessary to the growth of the plant. We know that an 

 the cabbage tribe have a large quantity of sulphur in their 

 composition, as is evidenced by the fumes of sulphureted 

 hydrogen given out when they are in a state of fermenta- 

 tion and decomposition, and the flour made from the seed, 

 as in flour of mustard, turning silver black when exposed 



