CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 



must be carefully guarded against. Free ventilation is 

 important. The aim should be to produce a moderate, 

 healthy, unchecked growth from seed sowing until the 

 plants are established in the open ground. 



As cauliflower plants are more tender than cabbage plants, 

 it is customary to sow somewhat later, March I probably 

 being early enough for the coldest sections of the North. 

 The plants will then be ready for the field early in May, 

 after the danger of hard frosts. Many growers prefer to 

 transplant when the seedlings are very small, not more 

 than an inch high. Planting them 2x2 inches apart does 

 not give too much space, but provides free circulation of 

 air around the plants, which may be removed from beds 

 or flats with plenty of soil or compost, so that growth will not 

 be materially checked. An excellent plan is to transplant 

 into flower pots, which are then plunged in sand or ashes 

 to prevent drying out. 



387. Raising late plants. Methods relating to the 

 growing of late cabbage plants (350) apply equally well 

 to late cauliflower, except that more care must be taken. 

 As the seed is much more expensive, it should be sown 

 more sparingly, so that each seed will produce a good 

 plant. Some gardeners prefer to transplant once before 

 setting where the crop is to mature. When this is not done 

 the transfer should be made before the plants are too 

 large and when both soil and atmospheric conditions are 

 favorable. 



388. Fertilizing. The cauliflower requires even greater 

 fertility than cabbage. Rotten manure should be used 

 in large amounts 50 tons an acre, if obtainable at rea- 

 sonable prices. A ton or more of high-grade fertilizer 

 to the acre can also be used to advantage. Lime is re- 

 garded as valuable and is used extensively as a preventive 

 of club root. 



389. Planting. The early plants should not be planted 

 in the open until after danger of hard frosts. The late 



