1889. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



21 



1.430. Fruits for Arkansas, Tlie remarks undrr 

 1,410 also iijiply to,). K. M. 



1,419. Deformed Asparagus, My observation 

 led me to attribute tliis in the majority of eases to 

 the Aspara^is beetles, thotigli cut or oilier worms 

 may be responsilile to some degree. Tlie most of 

 tliese deforineil shoots are the early ones, and these 

 beetles feed under ground till the weather becomes 

 warm Have found them so frequently in such 

 compromising positions as to leave no doubt in ray 

 mind they are the culprits. Thes;e pests are mul- 

 tiplying and spreading so rapidly as to be a serious 

 menace to Asparagus culture. They are the chief 

 cause of so much white Asparagus in the market. 

 It is the sheerest nonsense to claim that it is popu- 

 lar or in demand, for it is not and is the chief cause 

 of depreciation in prices — W. ( Jlr. Chas. W. Gar- 

 field in his paper on Asparagus culture, extract of 

 which appears in this issue, attributes the causes 

 of deformed shoots to the sand bl.tiwing against 

 them, just after breaking through the ground. The 

 question of '* white" or green Asparagus seems to 

 us chiefly one of education, individual taste t about 

 which latter sensible peojjle do no' dispute }, man- 

 ner of growing, and culinary skill. When properly 

 grown and prepared even the '" white " ( bleached ) 

 Asparagus is not to be despised. Ed ] 



1.424. Keeping Sweet Potatoes. The tubers 

 should be dujr after the first frost. They are 

 generally ripe about that time. Examine some 

 bruised specimens. If the wound turns to a 

 dark or bluish color they are not ripe, but it the 

 ■milk" oozes out and dries over the wound, 

 they are all right. Dig in fair weather, bruising 

 them as little as possible, and not expose them to 

 rain or dew. Store them in crates or boxes in a 

 dry place where the temperature is kept at from 

 50 to 65 degrees, and never allowed to go much 

 below 4.5. A correspondent of Southern Culti- 

 vator recommends the following plan for south- 

 ern localities, as one never known to tail: Smooth 

 off the ground where you wish to locate the 

 bank. Put a layer of Corn-stalks on the smooth 

 surface as thickly as you can, and cross-lay with 

 another layer of stalks. Spread over the stalks 

 about four inches of Pine straw or any other 

 straw. Next, nail together four planks or 

 boards, forming a hollow. Bore holes in each 

 side of this tolerably thick ; stand it on end in 

 the center of the straw, and pile the Potatoes 

 around it. Put a layer of straw over the Pota- 

 toes, and a layer of (^orn-stalks. setting on ends 

 over it. Cover the stalks with dirt, spading it 

 from close around the bank, therel>y forming a 

 ditch to turn the water from the Potatoes. Be 

 sure to let the top end of the boards extend a 

 little above the top of the bank. Leave the top 

 open until rain or cold snap comes, then cover 

 with a piece of plank until the weather moder- 

 ates. This hollow furnishes a channel tlirough 

 which air can readily reach the Potatoes all a- 

 round the center, and should be kept oi>en as 

 much as possible while the weather is moder- 

 ately cool, but as winter approaches it should be 

 kept closed. Potatoes always go through a 

 sweat after being banked, and air distributed 

 through them is ^ery essential. 



1,432. Currant Borer. This may be the im- 

 ported borer, the jiarent of which is a pretty 

 wasp-like moth measuring with wings expanded 

 about three quarters of an inch across, or it may 

 be the American Currant borer which is the 

 larva of a beetle. Although belonging to en- 

 tirely different orders, the two borers are similar 

 in appearance and habits, the latter ( American 

 borer) being, however, easUy distinguished by its 

 smaller size and abseence of feet. Botii feed on 

 the pit in the center of Currant and sometimes 

 Gooseberry canes, hollowing them out, and often 

 entirely killing them. The only remedy that 

 might be suggested is cutting out and burning 

 all stems found hollow or sickly in autumn or 

 spring. During the period when the moths are 

 on the wing they may often be captured and de- 

 stroyed in the cool of the morning, at which 

 time they are somewhat sluggish. The other 

 borer is sometimes attacked by parasites. 



1,4.59. Manure for Strawberries. Sometimes 

 it happens that an excess *if barnyard manure 

 works to the injury of the crop to which it is 

 applied, especially by souring the soil. Usually, 

 however, the injury comes from the failure of 

 tee grower to apply enough, and we feel much 

 more disposed to warn against the risks of using 

 too little manure, than caution against too much 

 of it. This same view we take even in regard to 

 so strong a fertilizer as hen manure. It is mere 

 folly to exi*ct very large returns from the ma- 

 nure of W hens when spread over five or six acres, 

 as so often advised by poultry fanciers and poul- 

 try editors. But wheg we apply the droppings 

 of the same number of fowls, accumulated dur- 

 ing one year's time, to one-twentieth of an acre 

 of garden, we never fail to see remarkably fine 

 results. The inquirer need not be afraid to mulch 

 his StrawlxTries with stable manure which is free 

 from weefl seeds, pretty liberally, and to work it 

 into the soil between the rows, and close to the 

 plants in spring. It will do no hurt, but most 

 likely very much good. 



1.44:i. Peroxide of Silicate. This lan not be 

 used with satisfactory results for the curculio. 

 The only way <-»f applying remedies for this pest 

 is in a fine spray that will cover fruit and foliage 

 with a very thin film of arsenical poison. Perox- 

 ide of silicate is int^'iided for dry application. 

 Paris green is probably the best and sjtfest t(t use, 

 but f(»r Plum, and especially Peacti trees, the 

 liqiiitl should be made ver.\ weak, piTiiaps at the 

 rate of one pound to 'AKi or ■-'.'><( gallons of water. 



\,i'tS. Planting trees, etc. Kor this state we 

 prefer planting almi)st all trees, shrubs and vines 

 ill early spring rather than in autumn, the excep- 

 tion being with Kaspberries, Blackberries, Ap- 

 ples, Peal's and a few other things, which often 

 do very much better when planted in autumn. 

 With care, and a little winter protection, howev- 

 er, almost all trees, shrubs, vines, etc., can be set 

 in autumn successfullj'. 



l,4.To. Setting Strawberries. Lack of pollen 

 at the time of blooming is one of the most pro- 

 lific cause of bari'enness, or poor specimens in 

 fruits. For this reason we always aim to set 

 plenty of pollen producing plants, and with 

 Strawberries would alternate one row of a per- 

 fect sort or sorts with not more than two or 

 three of the pistilate variety. Some growers go 

 so far as to set them in alternate rows, and while 

 this is hardly necessary, it is far better to go to 

 the extreme in this direction than in the oppo- 

 site. The best distance for the rows we consider 

 to be about ff)ur feet. This leaves a chance for a 

 reaaonalilj' wide matted row, and at the same time 

 ff>r cultivation between. The plants are usually 

 setI2 or !.'» inches apart in the row, but with free- 

 running sorts, we might often plant double that 

 width with advantage, and only where the stool 

 system is strictly adhered to, will it be necessary 

 with all sorts to have them as close as 12 inches 

 apart from the start. 



l,4o'3. Packing Small Fruit Plants. In no bet- 

 ter way can this be learned easil.v and thorough- 

 ly than by a visit during the shipping season to 

 the packing houses of one or more good nurserj'- 

 men who do a mailing and shipping trade. We 

 have many such in almost every state, and you 

 should not begrudge a reasonable expense to 

 make a trip to those located nearest to you. 



1,.552. Holy Ohost Plant. This is a terrestrial 

 Orchid belonging to the genus Peristeria or Dove 

 plant, and botanically known as P. clata. 

 Should be grown in well-drained pots of light, 

 rich, fibrous loam, with a liberal mixture of fine 

 sand and broken charcoal. They succeed well in 

 an ordinary greenhouse, but do not want much 

 water, particularly when at rest. They flower 

 during the summer months, and remain in bloom 

 several weeks. Propagated by division. 



1,4.51. Curculio on Peaches. The insect de- 

 stroying your Peaches is probably the curculio. 

 Spraying with arsenious solutions in early 

 spring, and repeated if necessary, will kill the 

 curculio, but great caution is required, especially 

 in making the solution weak enough, lest the 

 foliage may be'greatlj' damaged also. Peaches 

 seem to lie very sensitive in this respect. 



1,446. Pruning Grape Vines Our best grow- 

 ers now seem to have pretty generally agreed on 

 autumn as the liest time for pruning Grapes. It 

 can be done as soon as the leaves have matured. 

 If cuttings are to be made of the trimmings, 

 it is alwa.vs best to do that before the latter have 

 been exposed to a very low temperature in win- 

 ter. Cut them now, tie in bundles of 50 each, 

 and bury in sand in the cellar. 



1,448. Setting Strawberries. For northern lat- 

 itudes we always favor spring planting of Straw- 

 licrries, since it is so much more diflicult to win- 

 ter them without loss when set in autumn, and 

 the crop that could be expected in following 

 spring even under favorable circumstances, is 

 really insignificant. At the south, however, 

 plants set in autumn, usually make considerable 

 growth before spring, and sometimes even form 

 perfect matted rows that will bear fruit abund- 

 antly the spring following. In such case we 

 would fa\'or autumn planting. 



1,444. Planting Trees. The ground should be 

 as thoroughly prepared as for planting Corn. 

 Dig the boles for the trees large and deep, with 

 room enough to spare for the roots, partly fill in 

 with surface soil mixed with good compost; trim 

 all bruised parts of the roots, set the tree into 

 the hole and fill with the same material until the 

 roots are all covered. Press the soil firmly about 

 and among the roots, first by hand, then by the 

 feet, and finally finish filling in the hole with the 

 subsoil. .Always leave a mound drawn up around 

 the stem of the tree for protection. See also re- 

 ply to l,4.5.s. 



1,403. Pruning Eed Easpberries. When red 

 Raspberries should be pruned depends largely 

 upon their vigor and rapidity of growth ; if they 

 start early in the spring, ( we refer to new canes,) 

 and grow, rapidly, they should be pruned as 

 soon as they attain a height of two and one- 

 half or three feet. This will tend to [strength- 

 en the cane, cause it to put forth strong laterals, 

 and be likely to improve the fruitage of the 

 next season. The cutting out of old canes after 

 fruiting of the varieties that only fruit upon the 

 second years growth also tends to strengthen 

 new canes.— Wm. Yeosians, Columbia Co., Ctrnji. 



1,4H0. Evaporating Fruit. Free stone Peaches 

 should be placed Hat side down on trays. Clings 

 can be removed from stone by " Peach knives," 

 1 prefer them whole. A]iples should be pared on 

 a paring, coring and slicing machine. Drop in 

 water tumtjiining a little salt after paring and 

 l>lace in furnace as soon as po.ssible. Should lap 

 one eight of an inch on the trays. Small fruits 

 should be firm and watehed closely. For Corn, 

 place a piece of muslin on tray and place the 

 Corn on it. It should be scraped loose occasion 

 ally. For bleaching, if the American evaporator 

 is used ( it is my favorite }, place two trays on 

 the upper track over the furnace, and a 

 piece of sulphur about the size of a i'hestnut in 

 the cuji on top of furnace should be used with 

 every fresh tray. Leave the trays over the fur- 

 nace about ten minutes then push up and insert 

 fresh ones. When done, fruit becomes brittle, 

 but softens after exposure to air. Pack in bags 

 or tight boxes in layers. W. P. Alexander, 

 Tenn. 



1,434. Keeping Sweet Potatoes. Charcoal or 

 the dust of same is the very best thing known in 

 this country for keeping Sweet Potatoes packed 

 in it for winter. Dry, clayey dirt, or very dry 

 sand isalso successfully used. \Vlieat chaff some- 

 times does well. Sun and cure the Potatoes 

 well after digging and don't pack over two feet 

 thick, then keep as near 69° or 65° temperature 

 as you can. C. C. Lijtdlet, McDowell, Co., N. C. 



1,469. Potato Eot. This has again shown itself 

 to be a most formidable foe to Potato culture in 

 the various sections of the United States where 

 rains have been superabundant during the season 

 just passed. It is liable to become still more de- 

 structive next season, and will undoubtedly do 

 so should it be one of more than average moist- 

 ure. In consideration of the importance of this 

 question we call our readers' attention to Prof. 

 F. Lawson Scribner's report on the Potato rot 

 appearing in Bulletin No. 2 Vol. II. of the Agri- 

 cultural Experiment Station, University of Ten- 

 nessee, to be had also of the Copnell University 

 Agricultural Experiment Station, Ithaca, N. Y., 

 and of which report the following are extracts: 

 The disease results from the growth of a parasi- 

 tic fungus upon the Potato plant similar in habit 

 and botanically related to the downy mildew of 

 the Grape vine. It is most severe on lands that 

 are heavy and poorly drained, but this is due to 

 the abundance of moisture present favoring the 

 development of the fungus which is the direct 

 cause of the rot. Some have supposed that the 

 rot was due to an enfeebled condition of the Po- 

 tato plant, resulting from many years of cultiva- 

 tion, but there is nothing to prove that this is 

 the case. The disease has never been more de- 

 structive than during the years 1843 to 1845, and 

 the wild Potato is no more free from the malady 

 than the cultivated varieties. The life history 

 of the Potato-rot fungus, is as follows; The 

 spores, lighting upon the leaves of the Potato 

 germinate in drops of dew or rain, and the pro- 

 duct of germination— zoospores— penetrate to 

 the interior tissue-s of the plant, and after grow- 

 ing for a time through these tissues, the mycelium 

 sends out. chiefly from the under surface of the 

 leaves, slender, fruiting branches whereon are 

 produced a new crop of spores. These may 

 carry the disease to the other plants in the field, 

 or to other parts of the same plant; that is, they 

 may serve to spread the disease in the tops, which 

 we term blight, o^■er the entire field, or by being 

 washed into the ground they may reach the tub- 

 ers and caii.se the r<»t. The presence of the fun- 

 gus is soon made evident by a browning of the 

 flesh underlying the skin and by a more or less 

 extensive discoloration and depression of the 

 latter. The mycelium remains ali\'e and ready 

 to renew its activity upon the first favoring cir- 

 cumstances. Such Potat<ies may often be found 

 in the markets and are used for food every day, 

 and it is too frequently the case that they are 

 preserved for seed. Used for this latter purpose 

 they will hardly fail to effect the new crop and 

 bring about a new development or spores. The 

 fungus is most active between HO' and 70" F. At 

 40" F. its development is insignificant, but the 

 vitality of the spores is quickly destroyed by 

 keeping the infected tubers for a few hours at a 

 temperature of from 105° to 110°, a degree of 

 heat which does not injure their value for seed. 

 It is said that tubers may also be disinfected by 

 soaking them for twenty-four hours in a solution 

 of sulphate of copper, four to six ounces of the 

 sulphate in enougn water to cover a bushel of 

 Potatoes. If we can prevent the spores from 

 germinating on the tops there wiU be little dan- 

 ger of the disease reaching the tubers. It is 

 nearly certain that the rot may be prevented by 

 spraying the tops upon the first sign of the ma- 

 lady, with the Bordeaux mi.vtue or some of the 

 other well known preparations of copper sul- 

 phate. The greatest loss from rot often occurs 

 after the Potatoes are dug. They should be kept 

 at a comparatively low and even temjierature, 

 and especially where no dampness will collect 

 about them. Dusting the Potatoes with dry, 

 air-slacked lime, at the rate of one bushel of the 

 latter to 25 of the former, will help to keep them 

 surface-dry and materially aid in their preser\'a- 

 tion. To sum up, select for planting a light, 

 sandy loam or a soil which is well drained ; plant 

 only perfectly sound or disinfected seed; spray 

 the tops with" the Bordeaux mi.xture or some pre- 

 paration ccmtaining sulphate of copper; store 

 In a cool dry place,.aad keep dry. 



