1889. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



35 



I. FOR STANDARDS AND GROUPS FOR LAWNS. 



^/cj-<jii<(r(i,pale yellow violet, .Inly t<iOctober, 

 AiHleriim Ucnryi, large ereamy-wliite flowers; 

 August to .VovemlKT ; Beaxtji of Witrctatrr, 

 bluish velvet with white stamens, July to Octo- 

 ber; KxeUior, a distinct (iouble-tloweriug sort, 

 deep, rich \iolet, July to October: Gi/wj/ Queen, 

 rich, velvety purple, .Tuly to Octolwr; Jach- 

 maniii. rich, velvety \ioIet purple, .Inly to Octo- 

 lK>r; La'hj Canliim Xcvitle, white, with a white 

 stripe running' ilown the centre of the sepal, 

 July to October; Lanuginosa nivca. larsre, pure 

 white, July to October; Lawmniatia, bright, 

 rosy purple, slightly marlied with darker veins, 

 August to November; Oltn Fruhcl, grayish 

 white, with a central tuft of brownish anthers. 

 July to Octolx'r; TltunhrMgensif, deep bluish 

 purple, with a pale violet central band, July to 

 October; Wm. Kennett, deep, shining lavender. 

 II. FOR COVF.RING WALLS, PILLARS, ETC. 



Albert Tichir. rich lavender, with a purple 

 band through the centre of each sepal. May to 

 July ; Co«ii(fs.< of Lovelace, bluish-lilac, with a 

 dense rosette of deep lilac in the centre. May to 

 July; Far Rosanumd, bluish-white, with wine- 

 red bands, very sweet scented, June to August; 

 Forhinei, double white, sweet-scented, June to 

 August; Gem, intense lavender blue, June to 

 October ; GInire de St. Julien. white tlushed, with 

 pale violet when young, July to October; Law- 

 sox'ana, bright rosy-purple, slightly marked 

 with darker veins, .August to November ; Lord 

 Lomlefhorough, deep %-iolet, with purplish-red 

 bars. May to July; Miss Bafema/i, white, with 

 chocolate-red anthers. May to July; Montana 

 iirandiilora, white. May to July ; Stella, pale \-io- 

 Ict, with well-defined bands of a reddish-plum 

 color. May to July ; Victoria, a distinct reddish- 

 violet, July to November. 



III. FOR PEKMAXEXT BEDDIXG. 



Alexandra; Helene, pure white, ivlth straw- 

 colored anthers. May to July; Jackmanni; 

 Prince of TTate, deep purple, with a dark-red bar 

 in the centi-e of each sepal, July to October ; 

 Rubella, rich claret-purple, July to October ; 

 Ruha riolacca, maroon-purple, flushed with 

 reddish violet, July to October ; Star of India, 

 deep plum color, with turkey red bars, July to 

 October; Thunbrldgens'S, deep bluish-purple, 

 with pale central bands, July to October. 



IV. FOR ox KOCKWORK AND ROOTERIES. 



Flammula, white, small flowering variety, very 

 sweet-scented, July to October ; Hendersnni, rich 

 bluish-purple, small bell-shaped flowers, June to 

 September; Jackmanni; Montana; Rubra Vi^j- 

 lacea; Velulina iturpurca, blackish-mulberry, 

 July to October. 

 y. FOR PLANTING IX COOL GREEX-HOUSES. 



Albert Victor; Anderson Henryi; Duchess of 

 Kdinhurgli. large double white, deliciously frag- 

 rant. May to July; Fair Rosamond; Fortxtnei; 

 Jafdmaimi -J Iba, pure white. July to October; 

 J<ihn Gloud Veitch, soft lavender-blue, double- 

 flowering variety, June to July ; Indivisa, pure 

 white, star-shaped, very sweet-scented, adapted 

 for a warm greenhouse; Lanuginosa nirea, 

 large, pure white, July to October ; Lucie 

 Lemuine, double white rosette-flowered, well 



M>/ 



§Wi?r' 





■A- 



BRICK AND TILE GREENHOUSt WALL. 



contrasted by its pale-yellow anthers. May to 

 July ; Madame Van Houtte, white, July to Octo- 

 ber ; Wm. Kenrtet, deep lavender, July to Oct. 



White Vine-Leaved Abutilon. 



A highly interesting form of the always 

 pleasing Abutilon or Chinese Bell flower Is 

 Abutilon vitifolium, a shrub or a tree from 

 Chili, which has been found hardy in the 

 South of England with slight protection 

 from frost and sometimes attains a height 



of .30 feet. The original form porcelain, 

 blue, large, cupped flowers and cordate, five 

 to seven lobed leaves which toward autumn 

 H.ssume a fine, golden, yellow blue. It is 

 not a very fast grower, however. As witli 

 all other varieties, thorough drainage must 

 be provided for this plant. The best soil for 



VARIOUS FORMS OF GREENHOUSE WALLS. 



it is a mixtute of turfy loam and leaf mold 

 with some gritty sand. Our illustration 

 (reduced from Gardeners' Chronicle) repre- 

 sents flower and leaf of a beautiful new va- 

 riety, A. vitifolium alba. The flower of 

 course is of the usual bell shape, but drawn 

 in full face in order to show the five-fold 

 arrangement of the stamens. Originallj' 

 five, they subdivide into a large number. 

 The flowers are pure white, and particular- 

 ly ornamented. 



Construction of Greenhouse Walls. 



In the erection of greenhouses and vege- 

 table-forcing houses very little attention is 

 often given to the proper construction of 

 the walls. People depend on flues or pipes 

 to furnish all the heat that may be reqmred 

 and care little about the heat that may be 

 lost through thin and carelessly-put-up 

 sides and walls. This heat, however, is 

 considerable, and if its escape is properly 

 guarded against by good walls, will result 

 in a great saving of fuel, and in some cases, 

 perhaps, prevent injury to plants by cold. 



Mr. Samuel B. Green, of the Minnesota 

 Hatch E.xperiment Station, has made a 

 comparative test of the efficacy of variously 

 constructed walls. These, as described and 

 illustrated in Station Bulletin No. 7, were 

 made as follows : 



Section 1 of the greenhouse has two four- 

 inch walls of brick, with a three-inch hollow 

 tile between, and so laid that there is an air 

 space of one inch on each side of the hollow 

 tile, between it and the brick covering, 

 making this wall thirteen inches thick when 

 finished and with three dead air spaces. 



The next section has a solid brick wall 

 thirteen inches thick. See fig. 2. 



The third section— a brick wall thirteen 

 inches thick, having a five-inch air space 

 inside. See fig. 3. 



For section 4 two four-inch courses of brick 

 are laid on each side of a three-inch box, 

 which is as high and wide as the section. 

 In other words, it is a three-inch hollow 

 wooden wall with a brick veneer on each 

 side. See fig. 4. 



The wall for Section .5 is made of a four- 

 inch studding covered with matched boards, 

 building paper and clapboards on the out- 

 side only. See fig. .5. 



The wall of Section 6 was made the same 

 as number .5, but, in addition, boarded up 

 inside, and so was left a four-inch dead-air 

 space. See fig. fi. 



In Section 7 the wall was made the same 

 as number 6, only it was filled with dry pine 

 saw dust. See fig. 7. 



All of the above mentioned sections are so 

 tight that there is no circulation of air in 

 them, and no water can get inside. 



The readings of the thermometers in the 

 boxes against every section, and those re- 

 cording the temperature of the greenhouse, 

 and the outside air, were taken at 7 a.m., 10 

 a. m. and fi p. m. This record justifies the 

 following conclusions : 



1. Where more than one air space is put 

 in the brick wall (figs. 1 and 4) it is much 

 warmer than the lined board wall filled with 

 saw dust : but the lined board wall with a 

 saw dust filling is as warm as the brick wall 

 with one dead-air space. 



2. Of the brick walls, the warmest is that 

 made of brick and hollow tile, leaving three 

 air spaces. 



3. The wooden wall with a brick veneer 

 is warmer than the hollow-brick wall. 



4. The hollow-brick wall with a five-inch 

 air space was nearly, though not quite so 

 warm :is a thirteen-inch solid wall. 



n. Of the walls made of wood the warmest 

 is that made with an interior lining and 

 filled with four inches of dry saw dust. 

 (Fig. 7.) This wall was warmer than the 

 wall made with a hollow air space of four 

 inches and not filled with saw dust. (Fig. 

 6.) This difference was most apparent in 

 the severest weather. 



fi. There is a very great difference between 

 the walls built of a single, well-made 

 wooden covering, even though having 

 tarred paper under the clapboards and in- 

 side (Fig. .5), and the same wall when well 

 sheathed up inside. This difference is so 

 great that for stables as well as for green- 

 houses and dwelling houses, it will well 

 repay the owner to sheath up inside and 

 even to fill the air space with some dry, non- 

 ducting material. In this experiment the 

 temperature of the simple wooden wall 

 (Fig. .5) in severe weather was frequently 

 from five to ten degrees below freezing 

 point, while none of the other kinds reached 

 nearly so low a temperature. 



Probably the cheapest warm wall for gen- 

 eral farm purposes is one made of wood with 

 a four-inch air space which is filled with dry 

 saw dust or other non-conducting material 



When a hollow wall is to be filled with 

 saw dust or similar material, it is all im- 

 portant that the material should be dry 

 when put in and then be so protected that 

 it cannot get wet either from water coming 

 in at the top or the sides. 



In making a dead-air space the sides of the 

 wall should be tight both inside and out, in 

 order to prevent any circulation of air and 

 to have it a true rh'fid air space. Dead air 

 is the best of non-conductors, but its effi- 

 ciency depends to a great extent upon the 

 number of times it is broken up and multi- 

 plied. While dry saw dust gave very excel- 

 lent results as a filling for walls in this case, 

 it is probable that dry chaff, cut straw or hay 

 would answer nearly as well. 



1,394. Hill Culture of Raspberries. But few 

 growers practice this method now. .\ continu- 

 ous row is found more convenient and profitable. 

 Five to six feet is about the right distance be- 

 tween the rows.— M. B. Faxos. 



I,3ft7. Wood Ashes. The July crop with which 

 I have bad unfavorable results from the use of 

 wood ashes is Potatoes. It seemed to induce 

 scab. On all fruit crops good ashes are a valua- 

 ble fertilizer.- M. B. F. 



1,.3!<8. House Slops, Liquid Manure, Etc, I 

 very much doubt ordinary house slops being of 

 sufficient value to pay for hauling i^ miles. 

 They will add very much to the richness of a 

 compost heap, however, and should be utilized 

 in this way.— M. B. F. 



