1889. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



45 



1.4-4. Keeping Sweet Potatoes. Tlie Western 

 Hunil tells u iiiirt\*poudent who at^ks the same 

 iiuestion, they eau be kept for several inimths in 

 an iirdinary eellar. it he is careful in handling 

 them. They should be thoroughly ilried before 

 being put awav, and so carefully handled as not 

 to bruise them. The drying ma>- be done in the 

 sunshiiu'. spreading them out carefully so the 

 siHi lan itet at them, and earefullj- coveruig them 

 at night so that the dews will not got on them, 

 or they may lie dried in a kiln Kor faniil.v use 

 drying in the sxmshiue would, of coui'se, be the 

 cheapest and would answer all purposes. The 

 cellar in which they are kept should be dry, and 

 is lietter when possible to so put them away 

 that the air can have free access through them. 



\.M~. Heating Amatetir Greenhouse, Any 

 ordinary oil stove can be used for a small build- 

 ing. Have a drum made with opening in bottom 

 to let the direct heat in from the burner as shown 



Oil Stove and Drtim for heating small Greenhouse. 



in illustration. If the best of oil is used and 

 burners kept clean, there is no need of having 

 any escav>e lor the smoke to the outride. If this 

 is not done, the stove will smoke, and give you 

 trouble unless you proride an outlet through 

 pipe to the outside.— H. J. Emmerich, Mil. 



1,477. Httlchin? Strawberries. We cover our 

 Strawberries fii'st time the ground freezes up 

 solid enough to bear a team and wagon. We 

 drive anywhere on the patch depositing the litter 

 where we want it. I like to have them covered 

 by December 1st. When covered before severe 

 freezing weather, the mulch is liable to smother 

 them and to make them too tender to bear the 

 severest weather later on. We use straw, spread- 

 ing it evenly all over the ground deep enough so 

 as to hide tne plants from view, say about two 

 to three inches deep. Some of ray neighbors 

 who have used Buckwheat straw report that it 

 injures the plants and the crop. Others report 

 favorably.— i. T. Farmer. 



1.4S2. Kainit on Strawberries. The supposi- 

 tion that we know everything in regard to fruit 

 culture frequently puts us "in a hole." We have 

 been very anxious to find out the whole truth 

 about kainit, its effects, and its value as a fertil- 

 izer, especially for fruits, but all our efforts in 

 this direction have only lead to the discovery, 

 that even our best authorities, agricultural 

 chemist* and college professors included, can 

 give us very little information on the subject, 

 and that we are yet somewhat in the dark. 

 However, we have the following recognized 

 facts. Kainit has about 15 to 16 percent. pota.sh, 

 partly as sulphate and partly as muriate, and as 

 a provider of this one element of plant food to 

 soils deficient in it, is worth its full purchase 

 price when this is not above §1.5.00 per ton. The 

 older soils of New Jersey are very apt to lack 

 potash, and since this element is so important in 

 the production of good fruits, especially Straw- 

 berries, good results could be hoped for from 

 kainit applications. The action of this salt being 

 slow, fall is considered preferable to spring for 

 applying it. Besides directly ser\ing as food to 

 plants, kainit also gives the advantages that 

 could be expected from the application of land 

 plaster or gypsum, and this perhaps even in an 

 intensified degree. It absords or "fixes" am- 

 monia, by an e.vcliange of itssuljjhuric acid with 

 the carbonic acid of the volatile carbonate of 

 ammonia, thus forming the stable " sulphate of 

 ammonia" and the valuable "carbonate of pot- 

 ash," which are among the very best and most ef- 

 fective of the compounds of these plant-food ele- 

 ments. Kainit also contains common salt, and 

 will give all the effects which applications of the 

 latter can show. Considering all these various 

 services, there can be no doubt that kainit has 

 really a greater money value as a fertilizer than 

 should be inferred from the mere percentage 

 of potash which it contains. We would apply it 

 at the rate of about 500 pounds per acre, and in 

 some cases perhaps upwards, and about 1000 

 pounds of bone per acre besides, in order to sup- 

 ply also the needs of the crop in phosphoric acid. 



1,.517. Moving Large Fruit Trees. If the trees 

 have to be taken up to make room for a build- 

 ing, for instance, and they are healthy and bear 

 good fruit, we would certainly try to save them. 

 This can easily be done by the excercise of care 

 and judgment. See also reply to 1,492. 



1..518. Tree Cricket. The damage was done by 

 the snowy tree cricket. Full information on this 

 insect was given on page 241 (Vol. 4) of Popular 

 Gardening in reply to the similar query No. 1,314. 



I,4i4. Keepini; Sweet Potatoes. The KarLsas 

 Farmer, in reply tt) a similar inquiry, gives the 

 following hints: Sweet Potatoes are sensitive in 

 every resiiect, us to changes of temperature, 

 moisture and handling. .\ light frost will endan- 

 ger their keeping civialities; exposure to any kiml 

 of weather in the open field is not good, and es- 

 pecially to wet weather. They will lie on a floor 

 that is inclosed and roofed a long time without 

 injury, if they are put there without bruising, 

 and if the pile is not deep, and if the temperature 

 does not get near the freezing point. They must 

 not lie long in the sun, they must not lie long in 

 the wet, they must not lie in the cold. As soon 

 as the Potatoes are matured they should be 

 raised. This must be done before the late fall 

 rains and before hea^T frosts come. A frost that 

 will kill the vines will not affect the Potatoes un- 

 less it also freezes the soil. But get them out at 

 once. Never leave out over night what you 

 raise during the day. Pick those which are to be 

 preserved over winter as carefully as Apples are 

 picked, and put them in a dry, cool place that is 

 well secured against rain and frost. Dry ground 

 makes a good floor, provided it is so protected as 

 to be free from effects of rain or cold on the out- 

 side. The pile must not be deep— a foot in depth 

 is enough during the warm weather of the fall 

 months; it might be made deeper late in Decem- 

 ber, when the Potatoes are picked over and all 

 damaged ones are thrown away. Such as are 

 skinned or bruised or broken or cut during the 

 process of raising should be kept by themselves 

 and used as fast as needed. They won't keep 

 long. The smaller Potatoes, if they are sound 

 and well matured, those say one inch or one and 

 a half inches in diameter, should be saved at the 

 first picking for seed. They are quite as good as 

 large ones. For keeping them through the win- 

 ter, store boxes and old barrels will do for small 

 quantities, but they must be made absolutely 

 frost-proof. They should have a little ventila- 

 tion occasionally. For larger quantities, if one 

 has no bins prepared for the purpose and has not 

 conveniences to prepare them, make a " cave " — 

 a cellar mostly above ground. This can be done 

 with but little labor and no e-xpense beyond a 

 few nails, and lumber enough to make a little 

 door, with two posts and a few strips to lean 

 from the ground to the ridge-pole, on which to 

 lay hay and cover with earth. The two import- 

 ant things about keeping sweet Potatoes in win- 

 ter are to keep them dry and warm enough to 

 prevent their freezing. Make the arrangement 

 so that fresh air may be passed over them. They 

 are better packed in dry sand, chaff, cut straw or 

 some similar matter. Don't cover them for win- 

 ter until the season admonishes you; that is to 

 say, keep them in a dry, cool place until frosts 

 appear, then close them in. 



I.IK. Transplanting Large Trees. It can be 

 done, but whether it would be advisable or not 

 is yet another question. We fear it is not. In 

 fact it is not often very satisfactory to move 

 trees of any kind larger than can be readily 

 handled with nearly all their roots. One of our 

 exchanges points out some facts that should be 

 understood by any one desirous of moving a 

 large tree. The first is that you are undertaking 

 a large job; second, if it is not done well, so the 

 tree will thrive, it is labor worse than wasted, for 

 there is more pleasure in seeing a small tree grow 

 than in seeing a large one die. With these two 

 points in mind, consider the location and the dis- 

 tance it has to be moved, and the means at hand. 

 In many cases it will be found best to dig a trench 

 around the tree and cut off the long roots, leav- 

 ing roots and soil enough to support the tree this 

 tall, and leave the trench open and drained so it 

 will not fill with water. Then dig a hole where 

 you want the tree to stand large enough to hold 

 the ball of earth that is left on the roots. Then 

 after the soil is frozen as hard as it will be. loosen 

 the tree by pulling on the top, and tip it over; 

 move it on a sled and set it in the hole and brace 

 it up. Then in spring, when the soil thaws, the 

 job can be completed. In the case cited by you, 

 however, we would resort to simpler, safer and 

 really more sensible means than transplanting 

 the Pear tree. Turn under the sod mot only 

 within a radius of four feet from the tree, as you 

 have done, but at least of a rod) by plowing, 

 spreading or digging. Do not permit weeds or 

 grass to grow, and apply plenty of good fertilizer, 

 especially of a mineral nature- bone or other 

 forms of phosphate and potash. Wood ashes can 

 not be surpassed as a fertilizer for fruit trees. 

 Kainit is good. Treat the tree in this way, and 

 we have not a particle of doubt that it will give 

 you again the old-time abundant crops. 



1,476. Apples for Home Use. We have tried 

 the plan of packing Apples in bran, sawdust and 

 Oats. In bran they soon began to heat, and near- 

 ly the whole fruit thus packed was spoiled. In 

 hardwood sawdust they kept pretty well, while 

 Pine sawdust imparted its peculiar pitchy flavor, 

 and spoiled the Apples for our taste. Aiiples 

 packed in dry Oats, however, kept in perfect 

 condition, and we consider it a very superior way 

 of preserving Apples (and probably Pears also) 

 for home use. Try it and report results.- P. G. 



1,4'*7. Keeping Cider Sweet. We greatly doubt 

 that salicyhc acid when used in preserving cider 

 in the small quantities needed -one or one and 

 one-half ounces of the drug to the barrel of cider 

 —would prove so ver.v injurious to the health of 

 the moderate user of such leverage. The drug is 

 now much used in medicinal art in much larger 

 doses, tor instance for certain kinds of periodical 

 headaches. The following method, however, is 

 vouchcxl tor by one of our exchanges to give 

 good results: Allow the cider to work until it 

 reaches the condition most desirable to the taste, 

 then add one and one-half tumblers of grated 

 Horseradish to a barrel of cider and shake well. 

 This arrests fermentation. After remaininga tew 

 weeks, rake off and bung up tightly in a clean 

 cask. It is also said that cider may be kept sweet 

 for years by putting it up in cans after the man- 

 ner of canning fruit. The cider should first be 

 allowed to settle.and then be racked or syphoned 

 off from the dregs and canned before fermenta- 

 tion begins. 



1,4.38. Water for Plants. Nothing better than 

 rain or spring water. Li<juid manure can be 

 given occasionally, or whenever the cultivator 

 thinks the plants will be benefited bj' it. Don't 

 use the iron and sulphur water.— C. E. P. 



1,4.58. Planting Trees, etc. Apple Pear and 

 Quince trees can be planted in the fall with de- 

 cided advantage. The stone fruits such as 

 Peaches, Plums,Cherries, etc., do best when plant- 

 ed in the spring. Deciduous shrubs can be plant- 

 ed in the fall and so can vines, but if they are 

 small I would not plant until spring — C. E. P. 



1,457. Fertilizers for Palms, etc. If the pots 

 are well filled with roots occasional waterings 

 with liquid manure will he of the greatest ad- 

 vantage. Be careful, however, not to use it too 

 strong.-C. E. Pabnell. 



1,466. Laying down Grape Vines. Should be 

 done just before the ground freezes.— P. 



1,463. Potato Digger. The Mattice & Keeler 

 Potato Digger has been quite extensively used 

 in this vicinity the past season, and with very 

 satisfactory results.— L'has. E. Pabsell. 



1,470. Setting Froit Trees. For the last three 

 years I have been experimenting on the tantalizing 

 question of whether it is best to set out fruit trees 

 in spring or fall. I take pride in the thrifty condi- 

 tion of my young trees. I have found that with 

 the same care in the planting, trees set out in the 

 fall are equal in every case and in many cases 

 superior to those spring planted. With fall-set 

 trees I throw from a foot to eighteen inches of 

 earth around the trunk of the tree to keep it from 

 heaving on account of frost and from swaying in 

 the wind. It should be removed early io spring. 

 Thus, fall-set trees are in a better condition to stand 

 the winter than if they were trenched in, they be- 

 come settled in the gi-ound and are ready for 

 growth the first thing in the spring. None of my 

 trees do as well the first year as the second, but 

 my fall-set trees invariably do better the first year 

 than those planted in the spring — F. W.Brooke, Mich. 



1,40.3. Prtining Bed Easpberries. I usually 

 wait until early spring, as in my experience the old 

 growth seems to offer a certain protection to the 

 new. It may be done late in the fall, however.— F. 



1,406. Wintering Water Lilies. The tub 

 should be partially filled with water and will need 

 renewing now and then to keep it from becoming 

 stagnant.— M B. F. 



1,409. Protecting Grape Vines andBaspberries. 

 Grapes should be cut back to about two buds of 

 the present seasons growth, then laid on the ground, 

 and if need be held down by stakes, then a covering 

 of straw, evergreen boughs or even earth should 

 be given. A great quantity is not needed. Rasp- 

 berries may be covered in the same manner ex- 

 cept that in bending over a shovel full of earth 

 should be placed next to the plant so as not to 

 make too sharp an angle in bending the canes 

 down.— M. B. Faxon. 



1,415. Hollyhock Fungns. This blight seems 

 to be quite general. So far as I am aware no 

 remedies have as yet been found. — M. B. F. 



1,431. Lily of the Vally. Pips or clumps may 

 be obtained of any bulb dealer about November 1st. 

 Plant preferably in a partially shaded location 

 about three inches deep. They are perfectly hardy. 

 — M. B. Faxos. 



1,422. Ferns from Seed. The seed or spores 

 may be planted the same as other fine seeds . Keep 

 the soil coDstanly moist.- M. B. F. 



1,436. Prickly Comfrey and Winter Vetch. 

 Mrs. J. S. E. Thompson, Sparfansburgh, N. C. can 

 supply the former and Northrup Braslau Goodwin 

 & Co., Minneapolis, Minn., catalogue the Vetch.— 

 M. B. Faxon. 



1,431. Book on Begonias. The Tuberous Be- 

 gonia. Its History and Cultivation. Price 50 cents. 

 Published by Garden Pub. Co., Limited, 10 Spruce 

 street, New York, is the best work 1 know of. — F. 



1,434. Killing Locust Trees. The sprouts 

 always bother in this way. The only thing to be 

 done is to cut them down repeatedly.— M.B.Faxon. 



