1890. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



93 



l.tHK. Doubling th6 Yield. Avoniffe crops aro 

 Imw, indeed, too low to be profltiible, and to 

 double them is an easy Enough matter. The 

 nverajre Potato t-rop in this State, for instance, 

 is only S5 or 90 bushels to the acre. A good gard- 

 ener should not grow less than 'A)0 bushels to the 

 acre. So it is with almost all farm and garden 

 crops How to double the yicldl' First apply 

 double the manure— make the land rich so the 

 plants have all the food they need. Next plant 

 close. Just wide enough to give each plant space 

 for fullest development, but no more. Never 

 crowd a plant. Be sure to have no misshills. A 

 good manager can easily prevent them by using 

 plenty of seed, and by timely r<M>lanting should 

 this be needed. Attend to all the wants of the 

 crop in proper time by clean and thorough cul- 

 tivation, and in any other way required, and 

 there will be no trouble to double the yield, and 

 in many instances to treble it, 



1,612. Swamp Muck. This is even richer in 

 nitrogen than ordinary stable manure, but this 

 nitrogen is not in an immediately available con- 

 dition. If it were dry swamp muck would be 

 worth $8.00 to $10.00 per ton. Of phosphoric acid 

 potash swamp muck contaios hardlj' ever 

 moi*e than traces. The carbonaceous matter of 

 which muck is largely composed, gives it bene- 

 ficial mechanical effect on heavy clay, or light 

 sandy soils almost equal to stable manure, and 

 to make a good complete fertilizer of it, it would 

 only be necessary to dry it thoroughly, and then 

 use it as absorbents in the stables. When mixed 

 with the solid and liquid voidings of animals it 

 becomes as good as stable manure. A good way 

 is to bed horses, cows, sheep, etc , on a layer, say 

 a foot in depth, and leave it there. It will then 

 absorb all the manurial matter, and become a 

 valuable fertilizer, at the same time adding to 

 the comfort and cleanliness of the animals. A 

 good manure may also be made of dry mucK by 

 composting is with unleached wood ashes, or 

 with bone dust and potash salt«,kainit preferred. 

 This treatment adds the potash and phosphoric 

 acid to it, and makes some of the nitrogen avail- 

 able, thus rendering the compound a complete 

 fertilizer. Try it.— G. R. 



1,610. Mountain Holly. This is usually con- 

 sidered difficult to transplant, but the operation 

 can be performed successfully by stripping the 

 plant of its leaves and cutting back severely. 

 Transplant iu spring — G. R. 



1,556. Distance for Grape Vines. Six feet is 

 too near. We once advised and practised plant- 

 ing the slow-growing sorts, such as Delaware, 

 Lady, Adirondack, lona, etc , 6 by 8 feet, but 

 experience has taught us that 8 by 8 is better, 

 and 8 by 10 and 8 by 12 is as near as the stronger 

 growers should be planted.— F. L. W. 



1,558. Manuring Grapes and Trees. There is 

 no better manure than wood ashes. We like to 

 plow under a crop of Clover in onr orchard.— 

 F, L. W. 



1,500. Gen. Grant Crab. It is an acid variety 

 and a very good one.— F. L W. 



1,574. Grape Cuttinps. Do not bury in damp 

 soil or where water will settle. A damp, sandy 

 soil is the best place.—. L. W. 



1,603. Turnip Tops for Greens. Turnip Tops 

 at Christmas are *' English, you know " and I 

 have no doubt the inhabitants of Gotham will 

 buy them and pay a good price for them both on 

 that account and because they are a novelty, 

 but that they will eat them is another matter. 

 John G. Gardner of Jobstown, N. J., and who 

 is one of the largest market growers of forced 

 fruits and vegetebles in the country told me 

 once that he used to force a good deal of Seakale 

 in winter, but it was no use, a little was all right 

 as a novelty, but as a crop it wouldn't pay. No, 

 Turnip tops would never whet ray appetite, but 

 if you come to see me about this time, I''ll treat 

 you to as nice a winter vegetable as j'ou ever 

 put a tooth into, namely Seakale. Oh, it's just 

 excellent. And so easy to grow too, in summer, 

 and force in winter.— Wm. Falconer. 



1.574. Grape Cuttings. These are usually kept 

 in the cellar in boxes filled with moist sand. 

 Label securely; tie in small bundles. Or they 

 can be buried outside in trenches, in any situa- 

 tion where water does not stand. Cover with 

 three or four inches of soil.— Chas. E. Parnell. 



1.575. Keeping Apple Cions. See answer to 

 1,574. They will not mould, or be in danger of 

 beating unless the bundles are made very large 

 or placed veryclose together — Chas.E.Pabnell. 



1.576. Aspidistra for Bedding. This plant will 

 do well outside in any situation when given a 

 deep rich soil. Copious waterings during seasons 

 of drought will be of decided benefit. Plant out 

 about the tenth of May and take up and repot 

 before cold weather sets in.— P. 



1,578. Castor Beans for Moles. They will not 

 kill the moles when thrown in their runs, nor 

 will they banish them as some assert.— C. E. P, 



1,554. Norway Maple. I do not think that 

 cutting back the top will help the tree, or pre- 

 vent it from dying —Chas. E. Parnell. 



1,550. Wire Worms. A good dressing of lime 

 will probably destroy these pests.— C. E. P. 



l,54^t. Chrysanthemum Seedlings, You can- 

 not tell the color of the flower, or whether they 

 will Ix- double or single until they bloom.— C.E.P. 



1,538. Paeony not Blooming. I give my 

 Pa^onies a deep moderately enriched soil, a sun- 

 ny situation. After the plants become well 

 established, a mulch of good but well decayed 

 manure is given every fall This is carefully 

 worked in around the plants the ensuing spring 

 and with this treatment 1 have no difficulty in 

 securing large flowers and lots of them.— C. E. P. 



1,5;^ Boses not Bloomintr. Moss Roses like 

 rich ground, and require liberal manuring, and 

 good cultivation. They bloom best on strong 

 new wood, and should be cut back about one 

 half of the last season's growth, in the spring 

 before growth commences. When well cared 

 for the bushes will attain a considerable size, 

 and in pruning it is important to keep the plant 

 balanced and in good shiijie. Although thu Moss 

 Roses are classed as being perfectly hardy, I tind 

 it best to give them a slight covering of Ever- 

 green branches as soon as the ground becomes 

 frozen in the fall.— Chas. E. Parnell. 



1,544. Myrtle Dying. I presume Vinca Minor 

 is the plant you refer to, and if so would say that 

 a good dressing of two or three inches of a com- 

 post composed of equal parts of good garden 

 soil, and well decayed manure well worked in 

 throughout the bed will be of the greatest 

 benefit. 



1163. Insect on Honeysuckle, If F. C. D. will 

 hang some small bundles of moistened Tobacco 

 stems, such as he can get of any cigar-maker for 

 the asking, here and there underneath the foli- 

 age^ in summer, I think he will not be troubled 

 agam. If the stems are not to be had, some 

 small bags filled with cheap smoking Tobacco 

 would answer quite as well, first soaking these 

 in water before hanging in the vine. Constant 

 Reader. 



1167. Kainit. This is a mineral deposit con- 

 sisting of a compound of the sulphates of potash 

 and magnesia, with the chlorides of magnesia 

 and of sodium (salt), and is largely used as a 

 source of potash for fertilizing and other pur- 

 poses. It is found near Stassfurt, Lepoldshall, 

 etc, in Germany, in which country its use as a 

 fertilizer has become almost universal. Thou- 

 sands of tons are now also exported to aU parts 

 of the world, including America. The chief 

 value of this fertilizer is found in the potash it 

 contains, and which constitutes one-fourth per 

 cent, of the article. In the use of Kainit, in or- 

 der to allow the chlorine combinations contained, 

 which may be injurious to some plants, to lose 

 its effect, it is recommended that the fertilizer be 

 applied some months at least before the seed is 

 sown, as for instance, in the late fall for the fol- 

 lowing season's crop, thereby so<'uring the bene- 

 fit of all rain or snow falling in the mruntime 

 and a consequent deep and tli(»niugh incorpora- 

 tion of the Kainit ingredients through the soil— 

 those which are beneficial and nourishing, being 

 within ready access of allthero<its and not con- 

 fined m single places. This method of applying 

 Kainit will prove itself highly advantageous, 

 whether alone, or in combination with stable 

 manure, farm refuse, phosphates or other ferti- 

 lizing material, and should be strictly adhered 

 to, unless quite impracticable. 



11711. Best Market Pears for New York. I 



would add the "Bu.ssock." It is of fair (juality, 

 good size, clear skin, and an abundant bearer. I 

 think the Kieffers grown south of New Jersey 

 are of better quality than further north. In fact 

 those grown in Burlington County, N. J., are of 

 much better flavor than those grown further 

 north in the same State. After a little this much- 

 lauded and abused variety will find ite true place 

 among Pears. C. W. Idell, 333 Washington St.^ 

 New York City. 



1181. Thrips on Fuchsias. Dissolve two ounces 

 of soft soap in warm water and add thereto a gal- 

 lon of clean water, and either dip the plants in it 

 or syringe them. Thrips are the result of want 

 of vigor in the plants, or more frequently a too 

 arid atmosphere. The two causes in conjunc- 

 tion will bring on a bad attack. Fuchsias, if root 

 bound, need watering twice a day, and the 

 foliage should be freely syringed morning and 

 evening, well dampening down the floor and 

 sta^s of the house. Fuchsias like a cool, rather 

 moist atmosphere, not lasting in bloom when 

 much exposed to sun. E. D. L. 



1223. Potting Old Fuchsias. As soon as they 

 show signs of growth, trim them back into shape, 

 turn them out of their pots, and repot into as small 

 pots as possible. Water thoroughly when first 

 potted, afterwards sparingly until growth com- 

 mences, when a liberal supply should be given. 

 When first potted place in as warm and light a sit- 

 uation as possible, and as growth commences re- 

 move to a cooler atmosphere. Repot as often as 

 necessary until the plants attain the desired size. 

 Do not repot too freely if flowers are wanted. A 

 compost composed of two-thirds rotten sods, one- 

 third well-decayed manure with a sprinkling of 

 bone dust will suit them very well. 



1266. Lilium Auratum. This should have been 

 potted last fall when the stem had died ofT, rather 

 than to have waited until new growth had com- 

 menced. Ai it is now. keep the soil barely moist 

 In the same pot, and a second stem will probably 

 be put forth weaker than the first. The small oflf- 

 shoots to be removed. All Lilies should be potted 

 in autumn, usually in October, the foliage being 

 then ripened. 0. S , Erie Co., JV". Y. 



1287, Pansies Devoured. I think that they were 

 destroyed by slugs or wood-lice, and as a remedy 

 would suggest placing a few pieces of boards on the 

 ground between the plants in the evening ; early 

 the next morning carefully examine the boards 

 underneath and in most cases the destroyers will 

 be found underneath and can be destroyed. Re- 

 peat for several days if necessary. Turnips hol- 

 lowed out and placed among the plants are also 

 excellent for this purpose. 



1548. Kaspberry Pruning. In localities favor- 

 able to Raspberry culture the practice is to nip 

 back the new growth of canes when one foot high 

 the first year, and afterwards allow them to grow 

 three feet high before nipping back. The bush 

 will send out laterals, be stocky and self-support- 

 ing. These laterals may be nipped back when 

 about one foot long or allowed to grow and then 

 cut back In the fall. Grown as above the bushes 

 are stiff and unyielding. When snow drifts it will 

 brake them down. Heavy winds will twist them 

 off. In unfavorable localities like ours It is best to 

 allow the canes to grow as they please, cut back 

 and tie to stakes. The more canes in a hill the 

 smaller they will be and less liable to twist off. 

 Raspberry canes will sometimes trail along the 

 ground ten or twelve feet, and "severe cutting 

 back" is to remove above two-thirds of the cane, 

 shortening it to about three to four feet.—L. J. 

 Farmhir, Ostvego, N. Y. 



1553. Varieties of Small Fruits. Of the well 

 tested varieties, I reccommend, if Strawberries, 

 Warfield, Crescent and Jessie for early, Buback, 

 Windsor Chief , and Burt for late; of Black Rasp- 

 berry, Tyler for early, and Gregg for late; Red 

 Raspberries, Turner for early, and Cuthbert for 

 late; Snyder Raspberry; La Versalles (red) and 

 White Grape currants; Downing and Houghton, 

 Goosberries.— L. J, Farmer. 



1569. Old Orchards. The plan followed by 

 orchardists in Oswego County, and which seems to 

 be a feasible one. Is this: Crops are grown among 

 the young fruit trees until they are large enough 

 to bear when the orchard is seeded down and after- 

 wards pastured with hogs or young stock. In 

 plowing among the trees, short whiffltrees are 

 used 80 as not to bark them, and a space left around 

 the trees as wide as the branches extend, to be 

 afterwards turned over with a spading fork. By 

 continued plowing and working among them, the 

 roots extend down deep and are not injured by the 

 plow or by sudden changes in the weather. One 

 should be very careful in plowing an old orchard 

 that has been many years to grass, roots tend to 

 grow near the surface and are disturbed and 

 bruised by the plow. Rather than run the risk 

 it would probably be better to pasture it with hogs. 

 —L.J Fabmkk. 



1549. Growing Aloes. Aloes require a com. 

 post composed of two-thirds turfy loam and 

 one-third well decayed manure. In potting use 

 porous or soft baked pots, let them be proper, 

 tionate to the size of the plants, and see that they 

 are well drained. An average winter temperature 

 from 47 to 55 will answer well. While in a state of 

 growth they requite to be watered freely anfi when 

 in a state of rest they should be kept rather dry. 

 They can be planted out in a deep well enriched 

 border about the middle of May, then taken up and 

 potted about the middle of September. All the 

 species are excellent window garden plants. 

 — Chart-ks E. Parnell. 



1662. Dry Maple Leaves. I would not advise 

 any one to use them for muching strawberries 

 where straw or salt hay can be procured.— P. 



1566, Summer Mulch. Nothing better than 

 straw or salt or marsh hay for placing around 

 Strawberries to keep the fruit clean. I often 

 wonder why so many various materials are sug- 

 gested when straw can be so readily and cheapfy 

 obtained. C. E. P. 



249. Pruning Roses. It is very difficult to teach 

 this by merely writing about it; but it is neverthe- 

 less, an important part of the cullivation of the 

 Rose, An experienced Rose cultivator will first 

 ascertain the name of the Rose, and he will thin 

 out the wood or cut back the young growths, in 

 references to the general characteritics of the par- 

 ticular variety. As a rule the strong-growing 

 varieties must not be cut back so freely as these of 

 a more weakly habit. Those varieties that have a 

 tendency to form a thicket of young wood should 

 be disbudded during the summer; this allows a full 

 development of leaf and growth with the conse- 

 quent production of Roses of a much superior 

 quality. Hybrid Perpetual and Moss Roses should 

 be pruned very much ahke. The young growths 

 ought to be cut back to within from three to six 

 buds from the base, Very weak growers may be 

 I cut back to within two good buds Rose Grower. 



