ISO 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



April, 



HOW TO PLANT A PLACE. 



(Pnntinned from pnqc 131.) 



In trees both fruit and ornamental with 

 a branching head on a trunk, cut out the 

 small shoots clean and cut back the larger 

 ones intended for the frame work of the 

 tree, to within three or four buds of their 

 base. Each bud should then be able to 



Fig. 46. Puddling the roots before planting. 



make a good branch ; leave them all and 

 there would be not enough sap to develop 

 them into anything beyond weak twigs. 



Older trees should be cut back more In 

 proportion than younger ones; those having 

 but few roots more than those having many. 



To cut forest trees back to a mere pole 

 square at the top is bad practice, for the top 

 will not heal over and a decayed spot will 

 appear at the top, letting water into the 

 trunk and thus cause ultimate decay. 



In Dwarf Pears to be grown as pyramids, 

 cut back the leader and the lowest main 

 branches one half, and all those between at 

 such a length as to cause a pyramidal form. 



Shrubs should have the growth of the 

 preceding year cut back to from three to 

 six buds each and where they are very 

 numerous some may be cut entirely away. 

 As a rule less roots are lost in digging 

 shrubs in proportion to the top than with 

 trees. Prune Roses at planting by cutting 

 back the past season's growth from one half 

 to two thirds. 



Grape Vines and other climbers cut to 

 within two buds from the ground. 



Vegetable plants like Celery, Cabbage 

 and others as well as annual flowering 

 plants from a seed bed do better for having 

 the ends of the leaves clipped back one 

 third or more. Plants grown in pots in 

 which the roots are all preserved do not 

 specially need pruning. 

 33. Locate each tree and shrub by stake be- 

 fore the day of planting. 



Directions for laying out were previously 

 given . The 

 ~' stakes correctly 

 placed with the 

 lows in the orch- 

 - ~ ard straight in all 

 , du:ections, take 



r' ^ 



the following 

 means to exactly 

 locate the tree 

 where its stake 

 stands. Make a 

 device as shown 

 in Fig. 41 at top, 

 consisting of a 

 board about 

 seven feet long 

 notched from one 

 side at the mid- 

 dle, and with an 



Fig. 41. Locating trees pre- 

 viotta with stake. /See Di- 

 rection 33. 



inch hole bored through the center near 

 each end. Lay down the board bringing 

 the notch to the stake, and thrust a peg 



through each of the end holes into the soU. 

 Lift one end of the board and swing it 

 around as shown at the middle. Here the 

 hole is to be dug. When ready to receive 

 the tree, swing 

 back the board 

 to have the 

 pegs in the 

 holes as at first. 

 In planting 

 place the tree 

 into the notch 

 and than you 

 have it precise- 

 ly where the 

 stake stood as 

 shown in the 

 bottom of the 

 figure. 



To plant 

 hedges, Rasp- 

 berries, etc., in 

 straight rows, 

 stretch a line 

 say a lath's 

 length from 

 the desired 

 row, as shown 

 in Figure 43. 



the absence of a tap root this operation may 

 usually be aided by making a small, com- 

 pact mound of earth in the bottom of the 

 hole over which to spread the lower roots. 



Fig. 43. Fig. 44. Fig. 45. 



The course of successful tree planting thrmigh 5 years. 

 1 hen open the Tree well handled from nursery tx) planting. Head freely pruned, to balance root. Planted 

 trpTipli nnH na In good, deep, drained soil, at same depth It stood Innursery, the rootsspread outnaturally 

 ^»ciiv.ii, a,uu iio and well compacted In fine moist earth. Land kept well tilled and fertile. Result. Strong 

 the trees are growth from the first. A straight tree the roots anchoring It well. No sprouts to mention, 

 hpino- Qof Ir. Little trouble from insects and diseases, for these attack weak growers first. Kapld 

 ueiug set, 10- growth and early maturity. 



cate by hold- 

 ing the lath's ends to the line and to the 

 tree's center. The result will be a row as 

 straight as the line. For a second row, if 

 such is to be planted, also take the string as 

 a guide, rather than the first row. 



34. Bight planting. (StepA) Make the open- 

 ing large enough to receive all roots with- 

 out bending. 



The holes should be broad enough to 

 receive all the roots spread out naturally as 

 they grew, and deep enough to allow the 



iim 



Fig. 37. Heeling in Plants. See JVo. 29. 



subject to stand at the depth it did in the 

 nursery. The outline of Pig. 43 shows a hole 

 of the right size; that of Fig. 47 one so small 

 that the roots are bent against its sides, and 

 with some protruding upward out of the 

 soil, and the tree stands several inches too 

 high, all in the worst possible shape. 



85. {Step B) Ounrd against drying of the 



roots, by puddlijig them. 



Have a tub of water at the taking-up 

 place and douse the roots into this before 

 carrying to the place of planting. See Fig. 

 46. Plant on a damp, cloudy day if possible. 

 If a bundle of trees is carried some distance 

 from the heeling-in place, throw a damp 

 cloth over the roots. 



36. {Step C.) Set the Subject to the same 

 depth as where it previously grew. 



This is shown by Figs. 43 and 50; the oppo- 

 site course, a very common and bad one, by 

 Figs. 47 and 51. Planting too deeply is 

 equally bad. 



Still a few things, like Pear and Cherry 

 budded on dwarf stock, should be planted so 

 as to have all parts below the bud com- 

 pletely covered. Budded Roses should be 

 similarly planted. 



Some soft-wooded plants like Tomatoes, 

 Balsams, vines, etc., that throw out roots 

 readily from any parts, may, if they are tall, 

 be set deep without the slightest injury. 



37. {StepB.) Spread out the roots naturally. 

 The right idea is shown in Figs. 43 and 50, 



the wrong one in which the roots lay in 

 masses or are cramped in Figs. 47 and 53. In 



38. {Step E. ) Carefully surround the sep- 

 arate roots on all sides with earth. 



As the tree previously grew, such was the 

 condition of its roots in the earth. It is im- 

 possible to be at too much pains to secure 

 the same condition to them in the new loca- 

 tion. A first requisite is an abundance of 

 fine, mellow soil; if the planting is being 

 done in sward or by the roadside, suitable 

 soil should be carted from the garden or 

 elsewhere. Then don't trust to throwing 

 in the earth by shovelfuls, and that a smart 

 shake of the tree will properly distribute it, 

 for it will not. Put the fine soil carefully 

 over the matted and other roots, and then 

 with the fingers or with a pointed stick work 

 it under and around every part. Fig. 47 is a 

 good illustration of "shovel planting," in 

 which no pains were taken to separate the 

 roots, Fig. 43 of right planting in this re- 

 spect. 



Use no manure against the roots, although 

 some that is old and fine may be scattered 

 over the earth before all has been returned 



Fig. 42. Locating trees by line. See No. 33. 



to the hole. A moderate top dressing of old 



manurp is never out of order. 



39. {Step F.) Firm the soil compactly. 



No part of planting or seed sowing is of 

 higher importance. In nature we find the 

 soil laid so tightly against every part of the 

 roots, that should a strong man attempt to 

 pull up a main root of a small tree he would 

 be likely to fail. Imitate the natural condi- 

 tion as near as you can. The man in Fig. 54 

 is using a maul to accomplish this; it is the 

 right course, although the feet may answer 

 as well. The roots should be shielded by 

 some earth at the time. 



