164 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



April, 



1,626, Tariecrated PittoBporum Tobira. If the 

 pots are well filled with roots, occasional appli- 

 cations of manure water are decidedly beneficial. 

 — C. E. P. 



1.709. Black Leaves on Orange Treei. Dissolve 

 two ounces of whale oil soap in a gallon of water, 

 and spray or syringe the tree thoroughly with a 

 part of the solution. In two or three hours after- 

 wards the black can be readily washed off with 

 the remainder of the solution, using a soft sponge: 

 this should not be done, however, when the trees 

 are growing or are In bloom. —Chas. E. Parnei,!,. 



1,179. Rules for Farmers' Club. We pubUsh in 

 the following the I'onstitution and By-laws of the 

 "Western New York Horticultural Society, one of 

 the most noted and successful of all such asso- 

 ciations. The te\t can easily be altered to fit any 

 organization of this kind, agricultural as well as 

 horticultural. The rules are as follows: Consti- 

 tution. Article I.— This Association shall be 

 entitled the Western New York Horticultural 

 Society, and its object shall be the advancement 

 of the Science of Pomology, and the Art of Fruit 

 Culture generally. Art. 11.— It shall embrace in 

 its sphere of operation the Counties of Chautau- 

 qua, Erie, Niagara, Cattaraugus, Orleans, Gene- 

 see, Allegany, Monroe, Livingston, Steuben, On- 

 tario, Wayne, Yates, Seneca, Chemung, Tomp- 

 kins, Cayuga, Oswego, Tioga, Onondaga and 

 Cortland. Art. III.— Any person may become a 

 member of this Society by paying into the treas- 

 ury the sum of one dollar. The payment of ten 

 dollars or more at one time, will constitute a life 

 membership. Art. IV.— Its oflicers shall consist 

 of a President, Vice-President, a Secretary and 

 Treasurer, all of whom shall be elected annually 

 by ballot. Art. V.— The following standing com- 

 mittees shall be ai)pointed annually: An Execu- 

 tive Committee, a Committee on Nomenclature, 

 a Committee on American Fruits, and a Com- 

 mittee on Foieign Fruits, to consist of five mem- 

 bers each, and a General Fruit Committee, to 

 consist of three members from each county rep- 

 resented in the Society, with a General Chairman 

 of the whole. Art, VI.— The officers of the 

 Society, together with the E.xecuti ve ) 'ommittee, 

 shall constitute the Council, which shall have the 

 general management of the affairs of the Society 

 during its recess, and of which seven members, 

 including the President or one of the Vice-Presi- 

 dents, shall form a quonim for the transaction 

 of business. Art. VII.— This constitution may 

 be amended by a vote of two-thirds of the mem- 

 bers present at any regular meeting, notice of 

 the proposed amendment having been previously 

 given. Hy-Laws. ].— The C'ommittee on No- 

 menclature shall collate and decide the standard 

 and synonymous namesiof all fruits known to the 

 Society, with tin- authorities for each, and report, 

 so far as piiu-tiralile, at each regular meeting. 

 2. — The Committee on American Fruits and 

 Foreign Fruits shall, in their respective depart- 

 ments, examine, test and classify such new fruits 

 as may, in a natural state, come under their 

 notice, and report at each regular n)eeting. The 

 Committee on American Fruits will, in the con- 

 sideration of new seedlings, be fruiiled liy the 

 rules of Pomology, as adopted bv tlic .New York 

 State Agricultural Society. 3. — The ( 'eutral Fruit 

 Committee shall carefully and thmuuL'hly inves- 

 tigate the subject of Fruit Cullurc in general. 

 Each local committee of three shall colli'ct such 

 useful and interesting information in relation to 

 the subject as may be in their power and embody 

 the same in a monthly report, to be made to the 

 General Chairman, such report to be by him ex- 

 amined and embodied in his annual or semi- 

 annual repoi-t. 4.— The annual mooting of the 

 Society shall bo hold on the loiiith Wodnosday in 

 Januarj' of oaoh yoar, at suoh I'laoo as tlto Coun- 

 cil may apimint. at which tlnio the aimualoloction 

 ofoSBcers shall be held, anil exhibition and dis- 

 cussion of fruits take place, and other business 

 be transacted, h. — Other meetings may be con- 

 vened by the Council, at such time and place as 

 they may appoint, fi.— No member who is in 

 arrears for dues shall be eligible t(i any office, or 

 serv^e on any Standing Comniittoo: and any mem- 

 ber who shall neglect to pa.\' his duos shall cease 

 to enjoy the privileges of meuiliorship. 



1.661. Bulbs for Second Blooming. Tulips, 

 when planted out in beds, will flower year after 

 year, and if planted six to eight inches deep, 

 summer bedding plants ma.v be planted over 

 them, and when these are taken up in September, 

 a good top dressing of manure apiilied. ^fa^cis- 

 sus and Hyacinths likewise. Froesias increase 

 rapidly and flower every year when ripened off 

 carefully, and not allowed to become dry until 

 the leaves turn yellow.— E. O. O. 



1.662. Ornithogalum Arabicum. Though a 

 beautiful plant when in lilocmi this will never 

 become popular, owiug to its having a way of its 

 own about flowering. Under the best ot treat- 

 ment they will rarely flower more than (mce in 

 three years. Certainly not a good characteristic 

 for a candidate for popularity. — E. O. O. 



1,638. Bentzia gracilis. There is only one re- 

 quisite to success with Deutzia gracilis as a forc- 

 ing plant, that is, to secure good growth the 

 previous season by liberal applications of water 

 or liquid manure if thoy aio ostabli^hoil already; 

 if not, plant in rich .soil, ami store in tall Liefore 

 there is danger of frost. Few plants force easier 

 or give better returns.— E. O. Okpet. 



Protecting Chrysanthemums in 

 Pots. 



JOHN LANE, cmcAQO, ILL. 



In growing Chrysanthemtims in pots out- 

 floors tlie pots should be protected from the 

 burning sun. Pots plunged to the rim in 

 the ground do well except in wet weather, 

 too much rain doing injury, causing the 

 finer roots to rot. Pots not plunged, simply 

 setting on the ground, need much care and 

 frequent watering, the sun burns the roots 

 near the sides, and the only live roots are 

 found at the bottom. Partly plunging the 

 pot makes it less liable to be injured by 

 either rain or sun, while the roots fill the 

 pot as far as plunged. In practice, newly 

 potted plants, had at first better not be 

 plunged until the roots get hold of the new 

 soil; they may be set somewhat near to- 

 gether without any plunging on the north 

 side of a board protecting against the sun; 

 then, when growth has commenced, plunge 

 to the rim giving more room. 



Hard rain will not hurt a plant in vigor- 

 ous growth, if continued, the pots should 

 be lifted and 

 plunged again 

 after the wet 

 season has 

 passed. English 

 growers recom- 

 mend a double 

 pot, one pot sus- 

 pended within 

 another, which 

 probably will be 

 found an im- 

 i^provement. Last 

 year I grew a 

 few by way of 

 experiment, as 

 shown in illus- 

 tration which 

 pleased me, and 

 this year I will 

 growing. Short 



Cliiiianiluinum in imt inotre 

 ted by large tik drain. 



make it general in my 

 lengths of soft-burned, uuglazed drain tile 

 pipe set on end with a Chrysanthemum 

 pot placed within affords a good protection 

 to the roots from the burning sun, provides 

 a moist atmosphere about the pot, causing 

 the roots more to seek the side of the pot 

 and remain healthy. In practice, part 

 plunge the tile so that its height above 

 ground is the same height as the pot with 

 drainage under the pot, and thus serving to 

 keep the pot upright and the plant trom be- 

 ing blown over. Less watering will be re- 

 quired. There is also less danger of injury 

 by continued rain or overwatering, and the 

 roots fill the pot to the rim. 



About Propagating Roses 



W. F. LAKE, ERIE CO., N. V, 



Spring Ppopagation. In glass houses 

 where Roses have been used for the late 

 supply of winter flowers, it is always an 

 easy matter to get cuttings from plants that 

 will readily root, if not too much forced and 

 in good healthy condition, which may be 

 seen by the wood being clean and firm, and 

 in which condition it contains just enough 

 succulency to facilitate free root formation. 



With most growers, the flowers are pro- 

 duced largely in crops. After a crop has 

 been harvested, and before the wood has 

 time to harden, is the best time to secure 

 the cuttings. 



As is common in propagating the vine, 

 the shoots should be cut in as many pieces 

 as there are teyes, with from one to two 

 inches of wood below the leaf, using a very 

 sharp knife and making the cut in a slant- 

 ing direction. 



The cuttings should be placed in pots 

 with one third of their depth ot good drain- 

 age material, the coarsest at bottom, gradu- 

 ally making it finer. The main soil should 

 be of light sandy compost, and on it must 



be placed clean, sharp silver sand, in which 

 to put the shoots for rooting. Put them in 

 around the edge of the pot in a slanting di- 

 rection so that the eyes will come just a 

 little below the surface. Water thorough- 

 ly, and plunge the pots in the bench soil, or 

 good bottom heat if at hand. In the above 

 method, it will be seen that there is an ad- 

 vantage in having good nourishing soil un- 

 der the sand, giving a fresh impetus to the 

 young plants directlyjwhen they have rooted. 



From this period on the great thing to 

 give attention to is the humidity of the at- 

 mosphere, with a view to keeping the fol- 

 liage fresh until the rootshave taken hold. 

 The right temperature is from 60 to 70 de- 

 grees, taking great pains to protect from the 

 sun's rays, and to keep well supplied with 

 water. This should be given if possible in 

 early morning or late evening before the 

 sun's rays begin to be felt to any consider- 

 able degree. If the leaves turn yellow and 

 drop off, the rooting is not so certain, and 

 many give up on the account that it is hard 

 to keep cutting from doing this. 



For stronger plants, however, it is best to 

 secure the cuttings from plants that are 

 grown for this purpose exclusively, as in 

 this case they are not exhausted by flower- 

 ing, the more vigorous growth being always 

 conductive to a larger percentage in rooting. 



SuMJiER Propagation. With the trade 

 it is not the practice to any great extend to 

 secure stock by summer propagation, but 

 for the amateur it is a good time to increase 

 his stock, as the natural conditions are per- 

 haps more favorable than any other time of 

 the year. At this time, the cuttings may 

 have as many as three eyes, but should not 

 have more than one leaf left on at the top, 

 and in inserting must be pressed very close- 

 ly or compactly. A frame with a northern 

 aspect is the best position, and should be 

 kept quite close for the first few days. Give 

 good supply of water, removing the glass 

 on all nights excepting when strong winds 

 blow, so to allow the dews to come in con- 

 tact with the foliage as it restores the vigor 

 and freshness exhausted by the heat of the 

 day. It is always a good plan to apply the 

 syringe also at night and early morning be- 

 fore putting on the glass, as it has its influ- 

 ence in keeping the foliage green and the 

 wood plump till rooting begins, when one 

 need not be quite so particular in their care. 



Fall Propagation. I have seen very 

 nice plants grown in open ground from cut- 

 tings by simply taking off the parent plants, 

 with good liberal cutting, and placing 

 directly under the bush, where it would be 

 shaded from sun. This is done in fall when 

 there is lots of natural moisture on which 

 depends success. The nature of soil also 

 has its influence, it usually being such that 

 comparatively few properly prepared cut- 

 tings will fail if any kind of regular autumn 

 weather is prevalent. The best soil for fall 

 propagating outside is a light marly loam 

 not holding water. If it is naturally cold 

 and water-holding, it is best to specially 

 prepare a plot which shall not possess this 

 defect. For mixing with the natural, there 

 is nothing better than the refuse soil from 

 the potting bench, which, containing as it 

 should a proportion of sand, will remain in 

 free condition though there be heavy rains. 

 A depth of four inches of this material will 

 last for years, and will not only be found of 

 value for this purpose but for a score of 

 other things which may be thus propagated. 

 A cause of failure common in fall propagat- 

 ing is putting the slips in too late so that 

 the callousing does not take place till it is 

 too late for roots to form in sufficient quan- 

 tity before the cold weather prevents fur- 

 ther operations. Medium-sized-growiug 

 varieties succeed best with this method of 

 propagating. 



