1 86 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



June, 



General Jacqueminot, La Relne, Mabel 

 Morrison, Maurice Bernardm, John Hopper, 

 Souv. de Wm. Wood. 



As to form of the flowers some ideas are 

 illustrated herewith, namely: the expanded 

 or flat form, with the surface of the flower 

 nearly even; the globular form, with the 

 outer petals concave and the edges curved 

 outwards; the cupped form, with the inner 

 petals shorter than the outer ones, the latter 

 standing erect and generally somewhat in- 

 curved; the compact form, which is found 

 in the large, very durable kinds. 



The preparation of the Rose bed Is of the 

 utmost importance. The soil can scarcely 



Cupped Form of Rose. 



be too rich, but it must be thoroughly 

 drained. The best plan is to work over the 

 soil where Roses are to go, to the depth of 

 fully two and a half feet, working in some 

 rotten sods and some farmyard manure to 

 the very bottom. 



Set the plants at from two to three feet 

 apart. On well-drained soil it is best to 

 plant Roses about November 1st. Then the 

 bed should receive a good dressing of farm- 

 yard manure to keep out the heavy frost, 

 forking in the manure the following March. 



In setting Rose bushes it is very import- 

 ant that the soil be tightly firmed against 

 the roots, but take care not to bruise them. 

 Plant in holes of such a size that the roots 

 need not be bent out of their natural position. 

 All plants grown on their own roots, that is 

 not budded, should be set 

 fully as deep as they stood 

 in the nursery row, while 

 budded varieties (such as 

 have the improved variety 

 budded in the free growing 

 wild Manettia or Briar 

 Rose) should go down so 

 deep that the junction of 

 the bud with the stock is 

 two or three inches below 

 the surface. 



Pruning the bushes is a 

 part of Rose culture in 

 which many growers make 

 their greatest mistake. We 

 refer especially to the 

 annual pruning, which is 

 best done in March or early 

 April. All kinds must be 

 pruned when planted. 



In the case of Hybrid 

 Perpetuals, a proverb of 

 " spare the knife and 

 spoil the bush," is de- 

 cidedly apt, as the best 



Moss Roses should also receive close prun- 

 ing along with high tillage. Yellow and 

 Climbing Roses require no other pruning 

 than to cut out all weak growth, and in the 

 former to shorten the flowering shoots a 

 few inches annually. 



In all cases of pruning the shoots should 

 be cut down to a prominent bud turned out- 

 wards, thus to admit sun and air into the 

 middle of the plant, which is very important 

 in the production of flue flowers. 



As the blooming season approaches pro- 

 vision should be made to prevent the plants 

 from suffering from lack of water and fertil- 

 ity as the blooms will be decidedly in.jured by 

 dryness at the root. Liquid manure should 

 be applied twice or three times a week, 

 therefore from the time the buds begin to 

 swell until the season of bloom is past, doing 

 this work just before night-fall. 



Insects are the dread of the Rose grower. 

 Let it be borne in mind that it is the under- 

 fed and otherwise neglected plants that in- 

 vite the largest numbers of pests. Preven- 

 tion in the way of a thoroughly prepared 

 and cleanly tilled soil, fertility, watering, 

 pruning, etc., should therefore be the flrst 

 resort against their attacks, and thus nearly 

 all trouble will be cut off. 



Still one should be on their guard, and 

 destroy whatever insects may appear. To 

 keep off the aphis or green fly place some 

 moist Tobacco stems under the bushes. A 

 caterpillar that appears soon after the 

 growth begins in the spring, and the pres- 

 ence of which may be detected by its glueing 

 a leaf or two together to form a shelter, 

 should be pinched between finger and thumb 

 in his leafy home. For the slug and hopper, 

 which devour the leaves, a si)rinkling of 

 white hellebore over the plants just after 

 thoroughly wetting the foliage, will usually 

 be sufficient. The minute red spider that 

 works on the under side of the leaves, may 

 be kept down by syringing the plants liber- 

 ally every day. Plants that are standing 

 out where the air circulates freely are less 

 liiible to attacks from this insect than those 



of rotted turf and manure, and which should 

 be composted for the purpose. This should 

 be spread over the bed to the depth of sev- 

 eral inches every autumn, and some may 

 occasionally be added to the beds during 

 the summer. When the beds get too 

 full remove some by taking away with a 

 spade " pockets " of the older earth between 

 the plants, into which to work some of the 

 fertile top earth. 



All garden Roses are better off for light 

 protection in the winter. A coat of compost 



Compact Form of Rose. 



as recommended above, will afford all the 

 shelter needed for the roots. But it is the 

 branches that suffer most in the winter, 

 hence it is well to wrap them in straw at the 

 approach of severe weather, or else bend 

 them over and cover with straw, evergreen 

 branches or even soil. 



John Hopper Rose trained on wire fence; re-engraved from the Garden. 



results cannot 

 be obtained unless the knife is freely used 

 in the spring. The operation of pruning is 

 a most simple one. Cut away all weakly 

 growth, and cutting back the strong stems 

 to five or seven eyes, keeping this in mind, 

 that the weaker the growth the more closely 

 it should be cut back. Another consideration 

 is the size and the number of the flowers 

 desired, the closer the cutting, hence the 

 less buds remaining, the larger will be the 

 flowers; if quantity is the object then more 

 buds should be left. Some kinds of Hybrid 

 Perpetuals should be pruned after their flrst 

 crop of flowers to induce the driving of 

 flowering wood for autumn. 



crowded against buildings or into the cor- 

 ners of the garden. The Rose bug must be 

 hand picked or knocked into a pan of water. 

 The best remedy for mildew on Roses is to 

 dust the plants with powdered sulphur, first 

 wetting the foliage so it will stick. 



Choice Roses should by all means receive 

 clean culture. The surface of the bed must 

 must never be allowed to become grassy, 

 or to bake or otherwise get hard. Every 

 week or two during the growing season, or 

 after every rain, the ground should be 

 stirred with hoe and rake, and not a sign of 

 weeds or grass be allowed. 



The best fertilizer for Roses, aside from 

 liquid manure referred to, is one consisting 



Notes from the Popular Gardening' 

 Grounds at La Salle-on-the- 

 Niagara. 

 A Lawn FI/Oat. In making the various lawns 

 for our grass tests this season and last we have 

 found a float, as shown in the accompanying en- 

 graving, of the utmost value in evening up the 

 surface of the ground preparatory to seeding. It 

 is a simple home-made contrivance, consisting of 

 two.3 .v4inch Hemlock scantlings eight feet long, 

 set the broadest wa.v up and down, about three 

 and a half feet apart, with four boards a foot 

 wide nailed from one to the 

 other, as shown in the figure. 

 Drawn by a team of horses 

 and weighted somewhat, this 

 float has a wonderful effect 

 in evening up the surface by 

 passing over the plat. But its 

 value is even more apparent 

 in smoothing down the slight 

 inequalities to be found in 

 every piece of plowed land, if 

 the driver will step on the float 

 when a hump is reached, in 

 which case the scantUng takes 

 off and draws along a lot of 

 the soil, and by passing to a 

 depression near by, where by 

 stepping off, the soil is re- 

 leased. Of course if there are 

 larger humps or depressions 

 the shovel scrai>er is the tool 

 flrst required. 



This Sprinq's Lawm Seed- 

 ing. Between April 24th and 

 May 12th, soil of about three- 

 quarters of an acre of our 

 grounds was put in condition 

 for seeding, and the follow- 

 ing kinds of grass sown for lawn tests: 

 Creeping Bent Grass. English Rye. 



Rliode Island Bent Grass. Canadian Blue. 

 Meadow Fescue. Crested Dog Tail. 



Italian Rye. Red Top. 



Siieeps Fescue. Kentucliy Blue. 



Six brands of " best mixtures " from as many lead- 

 ing seedsmen. 



These experiment lawn plats, with the seven 

 of last year's sowing referred to a month ago, 

 should enable us soon to present our readers 

 some very definite and valuable information 

 on the subject of lawn seeding. 



Evergreens at " Woodbanks." Strongly as 

 we favor the free planting of ornamental hardy 

 shrubs about the home, as referred to last month, 

 we yet feel that the liberal planting of Ever- 

 greens is entitled to even greater attention. 

 Evergreens show forth their full beauty through- 



