38 Notes and Gleanings. 



by two and a half inches broad. Its shape is variable, as may be seen by the 

 cut annexed, in which one fruit is represented as rather more cylindrical than 

 the other, and with ' a waist,' as Mr. Huyshe happily termed it. The skin is of 

 a smooth lemon-color, mottled and traced all over with thin cinnamon-colored 

 russet similar to that of Marie Louise. The eye is open, with erect, acute seg- 

 ments, and set in a rather shallow basin. The stalk is short and stout, and in- 

 serted in a deepish cavity. The flesh is of a deep-yellow color, smooth-grained, 

 very melting and juicy, richly flavored, and with a high aroma. The fruit is 

 ripe in the end of November, and will keep on till Christmas ; so that it is not 

 one of those numerous varieties which are in use in early autumn when so many 

 other kinds are ripe, but comes in at a time when good pears are really scarce 

 and valuable." — Florist atid Pomologist. 



TROPyEOLUM Tricolorum. — Twenty years ago, this beautiful greenhouse 

 climber was to be seen at the early summer exhibitions ; but now it is seldom or 

 never shown, and it is rarely that one meets with a well-grown specimen of it 

 even in private collections, — a circumstance which is not easily accounted for, 

 as the plant is very readily increased, easily grown, very beautiful, and lasts a 

 considerable time in flower. Its flowers show to great advantage under artificial 

 light, which makes it invaluable for in-door decoration. I am rather partial to 

 this pretty climber, and beg to offer a few remarks on its culture, in the hope 

 that it may be again as extensively grown as its merits justly entitle it to be. 



The tubers, when in a dormant state, should be kept in dry sand, and in a safe 

 place, where mice (which are very fond of them) cannot get to them. In general, 

 they begin to grow during the month of September. As soon as it is perceived 

 that they are starting, they sliould be at once potted into pots of the size they 

 are to flower in. Pots from eight to ten or twelve inches in diameter, according to 

 the size of the tuber, will be sufficiently large. The pots should be well drained ; 

 and a little sphagnum should be placed over the potsherds, to prevent the soil 

 from getting amongst them : a little rotten dung placed on this will be found 

 beneficial. They will grow in almost any kind of light soil ; but the following 

 compost answers well : One-half turfy loam, one-fourth part fibrous peat, and 

 one-fourth part rotten dung, well mixed together with a good sprinkling either of 

 sand or bone-dust, the latter being preferable. The compost should be in a 

 proper state when used, — neither too dry nor too wet, — and should be pressed 

 tolerably firm in the pots. The roots should be planted in the centre of the pots, 

 leaving the tops just above the soil. 



The trellis on which to train the plants should be placed in the pot at once, and 

 made so fast to a wire below the pot-rim that it will not move. This is a matter 

 of some importance, as, if the trellis is not made firm, the least movement of it 

 would, by a sudden jerk, break off the young shoots from the crown. Some at- 

 tention must also be paid to properly attaching the young shoots to the trellis. 

 The kind of trellis is a mere matter of taste. I have seen a great variety used ; 

 but I like the balloon-shape, or rather a modification of it, as well as any. 



A few days after potting, a gentle watering from a rose water-pot should be 

 given to settle the soil nicely around the tubers. The plants will not then re- 



