Notes and Gleanings. 103 



surface becomes green, tilt the bell-glass a little on one side at night ; and, as the 

 soil becomes greener, tilt it higher, giving a gentle watering now and then to 

 keep the surface from becoming dry. When the plants have made two or three 

 fronds, gradually remove the bell-glass, and pot off the ferns when they can be 

 handled safely. The pots may be placed outside, exposed to frost ; but then the 

 vegetation of the spores will not be so speedy and certain as when the pots are 

 placed in the greenhouse. 



Plaster for budding Roses. — Perhaps the following remarks on budding 

 roses may be of use to some of your readers. I have adopted with complete 

 success a plan which has been new to all those to whom I mentioned it, and by 

 which much expenditure of time and trouble is saved, and, I think, a great 

 amount of certainty obtained. 



Instead of either bast or worsted, I use some common adhesive plaster. With 

 this I can bud three roses in the same time that I can bud one with bast. The 

 plaster adheres at once exactly where it is required. No tying is necessary; and 

 the operation can be performed with great neatness and exactness, as well as 

 rapidity. The plaster I used was some common white adhesive plaster, bought 

 at the chemist's (called diachylon), and cut into narrow strips. I do not know 

 whether my plan is absolutely new, but it has been so to all those to whom I have 

 mentioned it ; and I feel sure that your readers who try it will find it thoroughly 

 successful. 



Another plan, which was shown to me by a lady, has proved so useful to me, 

 and is so little practised, that I think it worth while to mention it also. It is 

 that of budding any convenient branch of a brier, either in a hedge or elsewhere, 

 and, when the bud has taken, cutting off the branch, and planting it with the bud 

 on, like any ordinary rose-cutting. In this way, shapely plants, especially suited 

 for pots, may be obtained ; and the plan is very useful if you happen not to 

 have sufficient stocks ready for your buds. I now seldom bud a stock without 

 inserting some additional buds higher up on the branches, which I can afterwards 

 cut olT, and plant as cuttings. — Amateitr, in English yournal of Hortiailture. 



Lilacs ix Pots. — After the leaves have fallen, choose the most dwarf and 

 best furnished plants having a number of flower-buds, which may be distin- 

 guished by their being larger and more prominent than the wood-buds. Take 

 the plants up with good balls of earth, and place them in pots of sufficient size 

 to contain them, but not larger than is necessary to admit a tolerable ball. A 

 pot tweh'e or fifteen inches in diameter will, in most cases, be sufficient. The 

 pots should be efficiently drained ; and the soil may be any moderately light, rich 

 loam. After potting, give a good watering, and plunge the pots in coal-ashes in 

 a warm, sheltered situation. The plants may be placed in the greenhouse sho-tly 

 after Christmas ; and, if well exposed to the light, they will flower in due season : 

 but. if wanted to bloom early, they may, in the middle of November, be placed for 

 a fortnight in a house with a temperature of from 45° to 50°, and then transfer 

 them to a heat of 55°. If sprinkled overhead morning and evening, and properly 

 supplied with water, thev will come into fine bloom in about six weeks. 



