Notes and Gleanings. 297 



lines ; a foot being allowed between each line, and six inches between each 

 double line. A very pretty way is to fill the bed with triangles of three bulbs 

 of the same color, taking care to let the colors of the different triangles contrast 

 well, and not to plant two triangles of the same color together ; the two bulbs 

 at the base of each triangle being nine inches from that at the apex, and the 

 same distance from each other, and a foot being allowed between each triangle. 



Hyacinths should always be planted in dry weather ; and if set in common 

 garden-soil, in which they sometimes do well, a little clean sand should be placed 

 round each bulb to prevent rot. The bed should be covered with leaves or litter 

 as soon as the frost sets in, and remain covered till the bulbs push in spring. 



A writer in " The Cottage Gardener " gives the following directions for the 

 preparation of a common bulb-bed, which will serve for those who have not time 

 for more thorough preparation : — 



"When the beds [of the garden] are cleared of their summer occupants, 

 it is time to prepare them for planting bulbs, to bloom in April, May, and the 

 beginning of June. Nothing is better than deep digging, or trenching, placing 

 at the bottom of each bed six inches of fresh or recently-fallen tree-leaves, which 

 should be covered with a foot of soil ; and they will serve to raise the beds con- 

 siderably, and allow water to drain away freely. In the course of a year, the 

 leaves will be pretty well decomposed ; and, on digging in the succeeding au- 

 tumn, they will be brought to the surface, and thus the soil will be enriched by 

 a not over-stimulating manure. Fresh leaves being put in every autumn, the 

 beds annually receive a dressing of vegetable matter, which saves dung, and, in 

 dry summers especially, the roots [of bedding plants] lay hold of the decompos- 

 ing leaves when the plants are becoming exhausted by blooming. The beds 

 should slope from the centre to the sides ; and the borders, from the back to 

 the front." 



Planting in Water. — As we have said, the single varieties are preferable 

 for forcing in water, sand, or moss. The heaviest bulbs, with no offsets, or 

 marks of imperfection or decay at the base, should be chosen. They should 

 be placed in the glasses about the first of November ; the glasses being filled 

 with rain or river water, and the base of the bulb just touching the water. 

 They should then be placed in a dark place where the temperature does not 

 exceed fifty degrees, and remain about a month, or until the roots are three or 

 four inches in length. They may then be brought out to the light, and gradu- 

 ally inured to full sunshine. As the water evaporates, it must be supplied, and 

 must be changed as often as it becomes discolored or impure ; or it may 

 be kept sweet by the addition of a small bit of charcoal. The plants should be 

 kept at an even temperature, and the foliage washed occasionally if it becomes 

 dusty ; and the glass should be frequently turned, that the plants may not 

 become one-sided. 



A few drops of hartshorn added to the water are beneficial to the bloom ; 

 and we have given liquid manure, say ten drops, twice a week, with good results. 

 After blooming, the bulbs should be placed in earth to mature their foliage. 

 Hyacinths grown in water will not bloom the next year, but will the third season 

 if grown in soil. 



VOL. II. 38 



