3 52 Editors' Letter- Box. 



Messrs. Editors, — I have fifty Delaware vines in tlieir fourth year. In 

 1866, they cast their leaves early in August, and the fruit never reached maturity. 

 This result I attributed to the border having been worked over, late in July, for 

 the removal of the weeds, involving the destruction of many of the rootlets. 

 Pains were taken not to repeat this error. The border was worked over last 

 April before the buds had fully burst, and the fork was then laid aside for the 

 season : the weeds, however, were frequently pulled up after heavy rains, and 

 the soil thus kept open. But 



" 'Tis not in mortals to command success : 

 They may deserve it." 



Perhaps I did not; at all events, I did not achieve it : and, in August, the in- 

 evitable dry-rot again assailed the foliage of my Delawares, and it vanished. 



The border is about two feet deep, composed of sods and moderately-enriched 

 earth. Bone-dust was added last spring, but nothing else in four years ; and 

 the soil is rather clayey, and inclined to bake. A stratum of stones was thrown 

 in at the bottom ; and this, with the declivity of the ground, has insured drainage. 

 I noticed last season, that, while vines not bearing made a good growth, those 

 engaged in fruiting formed very little wood. 



My theory is, that the soil is too stiff and poor ; and my plan of treatment is 

 to lighten it up by throwing over the surface a cartload or two of decayed leaves 

 from the woods, to protect the roots during the winter, and, in the spring, add a 

 top-dressing of well-rotted manure, and work both in gently with the fork. The 

 ground will thus be kept light and porous all summer ; and the increased rich- 

 ness of the soil should promote a more vigorous and healthful action, both of the 

 roots and foliage of the vines. 



My present theory may be as fallacious as the one which has exploded ; and 

 I shall be greatly your debtor, Messrs. Editors, if you will kindly flash the light 

 of experience upon the " situation," and help me cither to carry out my plan 

 with energy, or to abandon it for a better. C. W. R. 



LUTHERVILLE, Md. 



H. L., Newport, R.I. — I am desirous to ascertain the best kind of hedge 

 to plant where it is exposed to the drip of trees .'' I should prefer an evergreen. 

 Has the Wigelia rosea been tried ? and, if so, how far apart should the plant be 

 set ? — The hemlock does i^retty well under trees where not too much shaded; 

 the arborvitse about as well. We know of none that will do better. We have 

 seen privet, a sub-evergreen, do quite nicely in such a position. The variety bear- 

 ing a white berry is the best for hedges. The Wigelia rosea has been tried with 

 fine success. Dr. E. G. Kelly of Evergreens, Newburyport, has some very fine 

 hedges of this plant. The distance apart will depend much on the size of the 

 plant you use ; say, small plants eighteen inches apart, larger ones in proportion. 

 It does not flower much when cut close, but makes a very pretty dwarf hedge. 



Practical Experience, Norwalk, Conn. — Anonymous communications 

 do not receive attention. 



