1 1 6 Notes and Gleanings. 



his coat off." It is a sign of a weak cause, generill}'^, when, instead ol" argu- 

 ments zxi^ proofs^ a writer has recourse to such petty fencing. I have produced 

 my arguments ; have also shown my willingness to give proof of the practica- 

 bility, and proposed the most stringent tests. Why do not my opponents, if 

 they have the good cause so much at heart as they profess, give tlieir argu- 

 ments, and produce their proofs ? It is an insult to an intelligent public to 

 adhere to this twaddle of adulteration without one single fact in support of their 

 theory. It is easy to condemn ; but the majority of our people are too just and 

 enlightened to do so without investigation and proofs. 



And do these sage gentlemen really believe that the practice is not followed, 

 to a greater extent even than here, by the wine-makers of Europe ? Only since 

 the teachings of Gall, Pitiot, and Chaptal, have become extensively known, and 

 practised everywhere, has wine become so plentiful, and so generally palata- 

 ble, there. Only through this practice has it become possible to export the 

 wines of every season, and to make drinkable wine, even if the grapes were not 

 fully ripe. In France, the benefits of this method are openly acknowledged by 

 freein'^ all sugar used for wine-making from taxation. If the curious will inves- 

 tio^ate, they will find how much grape-sugar is annually made and used for wine- 

 making in Europe, — an amount which will seem almost incredible to them. 



One more point, and my lengthy epistle is at an end. All my opponents 

 seem, purposely or not, to mistake me. I do not assert that I can make as good 

 wine in a poor season as in a good one. The peculiarly fine, delicate aroma of 

 aorrape in its greatest perfection (which it attains only in the best seasons) must 

 always distinguish the wine of such vintages from those of a poor season. We 

 can produce alcohol by adding sugar, and tone down and dilute the acid, and 

 even the aroma, by adding water ; but the exquisite aroma of the best vintages 

 is only at the disposal of a kind and bountiful Providence. The wine-maker 

 can make a drinkable, even a oood wiite, in an indifferent season ; but the best is 

 in the hands of Him who has rain and sunshine at his command, and who alone 

 is the giver of all good and perfect gifts. George Hicsinann. 



Hermann, Nov. 20, 1867. 



Wine-Growing and Wine-Making. — The wine-grower who values h-s 

 reputation for selling pure wines more than the profits of selling mixed winos 

 will take the way pointed out by Nature to maintain unbroken the nice adjust- 

 ments of Nature, wliich fits the composition of the juice of the grape to the 

 wants of man. The grapes are gathered when fully ripe, and the bunches 

 cleansed of all imperfect berries : the fruit is then stripped from the stems, and 

 passed through the grape-mill into the wine-press. The must, or fresh juice, is 

 passed from the press into casks in the cellar for fermentation : these casks arc 

 not quite filled ; and to prevent the loss of any of the rich flavor, fragrant 

 aroma, and other delicate qualities of the juice of the grape, a tin siphon is 

 fitted closely in th\^ bung, with the other end in a can of water, through which 

 the gas generated during fermentation passes. As soon as fermentation has 

 entirely ceased, the casks are fdled with the fermented juice : the bung liole is 

 then securely closed, and the casks are allowed to lie undisturbed until February 



