Notes and Gleanings. 299 



Wintering Tender Plants in Cold Pits and Frames. — In many 

 cases, cold pits and frames are all that can be commanded for wintering tender 

 riovver-garden plants. There is sometimes an outhouse, spare room, or bow- 

 window, that can be used as an auxiliary to a pit or frame. With such conve- 

 nience, indifferent as it may be considered, and really is, it is astonishing how 

 much can be accomplished by judicious management, and earnestness of purpose. 



In the construction of cold pits to be used for wintering such things as pelar- 

 goniums and verbenas, the principal object to be secured is dryness ; because 

 damp is a far greater enemy to such plants, and one more difficult to combat, 

 than frost. On this account, I have an objection to sinking below the ground- 

 level, unless the walls below ground be made perfectly water-tight by cement ; 

 and the bottom should be as thoroughly drained as possible. Indeed, it is 

 a good plan either to pave or cement the bottom of the frame or pit to prevent 

 water rising by capillary attraction ; in which case there must be holes for the 

 escape of all moisture that may collect inside : and the foundation of the inside 

 should be of open rubble, with a drain to take the water away. Pits sunk a lit- 

 tle into the ground, and constructed in this way, are warmer than when raised 

 above the ground-level ; but I would rather have all above the level, and con- 

 struct the walls hollow, enclosing a stratum of air, which is the best non- 

 conductor. 



One of the principal points necessary to success in wintering plants without 

 the aid of fire-heat is that of preparing the plants in autumn. I have already 

 recommended for all cases early and the coolest system of propagation ; but 

 this is most especially applicable to the case of those who have no better con- 

 venience than cold frames or pits to winter their plants in. Early propagation 

 allows of the plants being exposed to the open air, and enables them to become 

 thereby robust ; and their growth is thus ripened or sohdified, so that they are 

 not so susceptible of injury from either damp or cold. They, of course, become 

 well rooted, which is another requisite to success. 



When it becomes necessary to place the plants in the pits in order to be 

 secure from autumn frosts, the lights should be drawn off by day, when the 

 weather is dry : not a drop of water should be allowed on the leaves, and 

 they should be kept dry to the drooi3ing-point. This brings on a state of matu- 

 rity before winter, calculated to stand a damp, cold, confined atmosphere, and 

 the absence of light, with the least possible injury. In placing the plants in the 

 pit, do not over-crowd them. The pots should be washed clean ; and, where 

 the leaves of such as pelargoniums are crowded, thin out some of the largest of 

 them. 



Some dry, loose material, such as hay or straw, should be in readiness, as 

 winter approaches^ for covering up with in case of severe frost ; and some of the 

 same material should be packed round the sides of the pit : but for this avoid 

 any thing likely to heat and prematurely excite the plants by a rise of tempera- 

 ture. When thick coverings over the glass become necessary, the material 

 should, if possible, be perfectly dry, and shaken on as loosely as possible ; as, 

 the more loosely it lies, the more air — the best non-conducting medium — it 

 contains. If, over the loose, dry material, some light covering, such as strong 



