26 Notes and Gleanings. 



of the year, and an atmosphere highly charged with humidity during the summer 

 months, when they are growing freely. To grow them well, the temperature 

 should range from 65° to 75°, with a rise of ten degrees by sun-heat, and a fall of 

 five degrees at night. During the winter months, from 50° to 60° will be quite 

 warm enough, as the stock will be at rest, and as a matter of course the atmos- 

 pheric moisture must be withheld, for much moisture at that season will soon 

 rot the roots, and produce the most disastrous results. When growing freely, 

 they must receive copious supplies of water at the roots ; and to prevent any 

 injury arising therefrom, the drainage must be perfect in every respect. Clear 

 soft water should be used both for syringing and watering, but for the former 

 purpose it must be perfectly clean, or the sediment will settle on the beautiful 

 velvety foliage, and materially dim its lustre. It is also important to use tepid 

 water at all times ; and for all purposes, the water should, as nearly as possible, 

 be of the same temperature as that in which the plants are grown ; but this can 

 be managed very easily by placing it in the house twelve hours previously, if 

 there is no tank to receive the rain-water from the roof. When at rest, maintain 

 the soil in a moderately moist condition, and no more ; but at all other times 

 water copiously, and do not, under any consideration, allow the soil to become 

 dry. On the other hand, guard against keeping it in a constant state of satura- 

 tion. Syringe the foliage twice a day, — morning and afternoon, — and maintain 

 the proper degree of humidity in the atmosphere by throwing water on the paths 

 as often as may be necessary. This, however, as well as the syringing, must be 

 discontinued from September until March. 



The beginning of March is the best season of the whole year for repotting and 

 top-dressir g, according as each individual may require, as they commence making 

 their new growth about that time. As the roots of all the species run along 

 either on or just below the surface, deep pots are not required ; and if they are 

 used, fill them to within two or three inches of the rim with rather large pot- 

 sherds. Deep pans are used here, and are found preferable in everyway to pots, 

 as a pan, which can be easily moved from place to place by one man, affords a 

 surface over which the roots can extend equal to that of a pot requiring two men 

 to lift it. Fibrous loam and peat in equal parts, with a portion of the fine stuff 

 removed, and a liberal proportion of silver-sand added, will grow them to per- 

 fection. Place on the top of the crocks a layer of the roughest portion of the 

 compost sufficiently thick to bring it to a level with the rim of the pot, then take 

 the old ball of soil, separate and remove as much of the old exhausted stuff as 

 can be conveniently done without breaking the roots about. Separate and spread 

 out the latter carefully in the new soil, and then pack the remaining compost 

 about them. The soil should be built up in a convex form, so that the base of 

 the stem is about three inches above the level of the rim. As the soil is being 

 filled in, it is desirable to add a sprinkling of small crocks to assist in keeping 

 the compost open, and promoting the free extension of the roots. Those not 

 requiring a fresh shift should be top-dressed with fresh soil after the exhausted 

 stuff on the surface has been carefully removed. The stock can be increased 

 either by the offsets which are produced round the old stool, or by seed. Sep- 

 arate the offsets, and after putting them in small pots, place in a close corner of 



