Dzvarf Pears. lyj 



transplanted trees, r.houkl be covered with the gum-shelhic sohition, to 

 avoid injury by evaporation. 



The second 3'ear's pruning will consist in heading down the leader to 

 the point from which we wish the second tier of branches to spring. In 

 selecting this point, it mubt be remembered that the limbs will look 

 much closer when they have become two or three inches in diameter, 

 than they do now, while only from a quarter to half an inch thick. A 

 foot is the least distance we can advise between the annual tiers of 

 branches, and in trees of dense, compact habit of growth, it should 

 be more. In heading down the leader the seconil time, it is well to 

 cut to a bud on the opposite side from that left for the leader at the 

 first time, as thereby the main stem will be kept straighter. At the 

 same time the lateral branches must be shortened back, but how far 

 will depend in -great measure on the habit of the tree. If cut too far, the 

 tree will be too full of wood, and the shoots difficult to control ; if not 

 far enough, the interior will be naked and open. A careful study of the 

 habit of the tree, and the exercise of good judgment, will be indispen- 

 sable here. A majority of trees, especially those of upright growth, 

 like the Buflum, should be cut to a bud on the outside of the shoot ; but 

 straggling, irregular growers will often require to be pruned to an in- 

 side bud, remembering always to prune so that the last bud shall be in 

 a position to grow in that direction where the new shoot is desired. 

 Have a sharp knife, and make a clean, sloping cut on the opposite side 

 from the bud. Do not leave any blank wood (except to tie the young 

 shoot to, to be afterwards cut away as above described), nor cut too 

 close to the bud, so as to injure it. If the top of the cut is even with 

 the point of the bud, it will be about right. 



As the lateral shoots lengthen, the distance between them will in- 

 crease, and, consequently, one or more secondary' shoots must be re- 

 tained to fill the space. All shoots not wanted to exiiend the tree must 

 be pinched when about two inches in length, which will cause them to 

 form fruit spurs ; and if they start again they must be pinched a second 

 time, which will generally be sufficient ; but if not, they must have a 

 third. If this is neglected, the interior of the tree will become crowded 

 with wood, which must be removed with the knife at the winter prun- 

 ing, thereby stimulating the growth of wood, and retarding the bearing 

 of fruit. 



The third and subsequent year's pruning consists in the application 

 of the same principles, pruning in winter to form the tree, and pinching 

 in summer for the same purpose, and also to promote the formation of 

 fruit buds, always remembering that the lowest branches must be long- 



