304 Notes and Gleanings. 



does not bud so early in spring as P. Cephalonica. The young growth is seldom 

 or never injured by late spring frosts : but the trees, nevertheless, often grow 

 very stunted and bushy, especially when young ; and, when left untouched or un- 

 pruned, they often remain so many years. There are several promising youiig 

 specimens here, all now growing away freely ; but, when we got them, they were 

 bushy, stunted plants, and for some years after they made little progress upwards, 

 the growth of the leading shoots rarely exceeding a few inches in lengtli, and in 

 many cases not more than one or two inches. By a liberal use of the knife in 

 well thinning the branches, and directing the energies of the plants into the lead- 

 ing shoots. I have now got the greater part of them into a free-growing state. 

 This, of all conifers, requires the most liberal use of the knife ; for, unless the 

 branches are kept well thinned out, the leading growth is poor, and the plants 

 get a stunted, bushy growth. 



There are many kinds of conifers that require little or no pruning with the 

 knife. When properly attended to from a young state, stopping and pinching 

 will effect all that is required. 



I would advise all who have charge of extensive and valuable collections of 

 conifers to examine every specimen as often as they can find time to do so : tliey 

 will then see any little matter that needs attending to, such as the loss of lead- 

 ing bud or shoot from accident or otherwise, — a loss which by timely attention is 

 soon repaired Avithout any detriment to the specimen, but which, if overlooked 

 for some time, may not be so easily rectified. — J/. Saul, in Florist. 



Grafting Rhododendrons. — The best time to graft rhododendrons is 

 towards the end of August, or early in September, when the shoots have ripened. 

 The shoots of stock and scion should be of equal thickness, or as nearly so as 

 possible. It is best performed by what is known as side-grafting, — putting in the 

 grafts near the soil. The head of the stock should be cut oft six inches above 

 the union, leaving some leaves on it. To this the graft may be tied. After 

 grafting, place and keep in a close cold frame imtil the union is complete, which 

 will be the case in six or eight weeks. Then give air, and harden off. In spring, 

 the part of the stock above the graft may be cut off neatly immediately above 

 the point of union. The grafting may be done in spring just at the time growth 

 commences, but success is not so certain in spring as late in summer. 



Raphanus caudatus. — The following note on the culture of this new vege- 

 table may not be uninteresting : — 



Its treatment does not differ from that of the common radish ; only the pods, 

 and not the root, is the part used. The seed may be sown in pots in good light 

 soil about the middle of April, and placed in a gentle heat. When the young 

 plants are large enough to handle, they may be potted off singly in small pots ; 

 but a better plan is to sow the seeds singly in small pots, and, when a few inches 

 high, to harden off, and plant out one foot apart every way, in a sunny, open ex- 

 posure, the soil being in good heart. This radish prefers a lightish loam. Water 

 will be necessary during hot weather. The seed may be sown in the open 



