3/2 Notes and Gleajiings. 



scarcely ever do so. This result arises from the roots of the quince-tree being 

 nearer the surface, and consequently in a warmer medium : moreover, the quince 

 is of earlier growth than the pear. There is no soil in which the quince will not 

 thrive with careful culture. Heavy clays, it is true, are not congenial to it any 

 more than to the pear. On dry, sandy soil, it soon cankers the trees upon it, 

 unless liberal top-dressings and j^lentiful supplies of water and liquid manure 

 are afforded ; but it flourishes in a rich, rather light soil with a wet bottom, in 

 which the pear cannot be profitably grown. 



4th, Trees upon the quince come into bearing sooner than those on the pear 

 stock, and the fruit is larger, and better ripened. Upon the quince, pear-trees 

 come into bearing in the first or second year after planting, and produce as many 

 fruit annually, in proportion to their size, as a full-sized tree, and they are capa- 

 ble of bearing one to two pecks of fruit by the time trees on the pear stock come 

 into bearing : besides, the fruit is seldom if ever so fine from trees on the pear 

 stock as from those on the quince in the open ground. The increase in the size 

 and color of fruit grown on the quince is due to the returning sap receiving a 

 check when it reaches the quince : indeed, the effect of the latter is similar to 

 that of ringing. — G. Abbey, in Cottage Gardener. 



Plants propagated from Leaves. — We have long been in the habit of 



propagating Begojiias, Gesnerias, Gloxineas, and plants of kindred nature, by 

 leaves planted in damp silver sand, but were somewhat surprised a few dajs 

 since to find some leaves of Campylobotryes discolor, which we had carelessly 

 thrust into the sand, well-rooted plants. This mode of propagation is yet in its 

 infancy, and we confidently look for the time when most of our thick-leaved 

 plants will be increased by this simple method. Not only will each leaf make 

 a plant, but every bit of a leaf can be made to throw out roots, and form a sepa- 

 rate plant : this is particularly the case with begonias and kindred plants. 



Forcing Lilies of the Valley. — The best way is to take up those roots 

 that have large, plump crowns, and such only, potting them in a compost of rich 

 turfy loam, and placing them in a house with a temperature of 40° to 45° for a 

 fortnight, and afterwards, until they bloom, in a temperature of 50° to 55°, and 

 not exceeding 60° at night, affording them a position near the glass, and plenty 

 of water. They never fail to have a plentiful supply of bloom ; but none other 

 than the flowering roots should be potted, which is different from taking up 

 patches from the borders, more than half of which are by far too small and weak 

 to flower, and, indeed, have no flower-bud formed. Pot none but the large 

 crowns, and put them in pots or pans at about an inch apart. 



This may done in the autumn ; indeed, as late as the ground remains open ; 

 and, by introducing the plants to heat at different times, the flowers may be had 

 from Christmas to May Day. 



Apples on Paradise Stock. — Apples on the crab are only suitable for 

 orchards, and for walls or espaliers where long shoots are desirable or required ; 

 whilst for dwarfs, pryamids, espaliers, and walls, where long branches are not 



