Notes and Gleanings. 375 



quence. When you see a warm i^enial shower coming in April or May, pull off 

 your lights, and expose the plants to it, shutting them up as soon as it is over, if 

 it is after the time named above : keep them well stopped, and harden them off a 

 fortniL,dit before planting out. 



Amaranthus and perilla also do very well in this way ; and so will colcus, I be- 

 lieve, although I have not tried it. The plan described saves much of the water- 

 ing that would otherwise be necessary, and is the easiest I have fallen in with. — 

 Cottazc Gardener. 



■v>' 



Moss ON Lawns. — The chief causes of mossy lawns are a poor soil, and its 

 being undrained. Give a dressing of rich soil or very rotten manure, first 

 scratching the lawn with an iron rake, and then applying salt at the rate of half 

 a pound per square yard ; finally dress with compost of loam and well-rotted 

 manure, not covering deeper than a quarter of an incli. The first heavy rain will 

 wash it in. When the ground is dry, roll well ; sowing, previous to rolling, 

 twenty-four pounds per acre of lawn-grass seeds. 



Ferxs losing their Fronds. — A house is moist enough for the growth 

 of ferns when there are evaporation-troughs, and the walls and every available 

 surface are sprinkled with water twice daily. Syringing overhead is destructive 

 to the beauty of many kinds, and also to the young fronds. Sprinkle the walls 

 and paths with water twice daily: do not syringe the plants overhead, but afford 

 enough water at the roof, and yet not so much as to saturate the soil ; giving also 

 a fair but not an excessive amount of air, and slight shade from bright sun. We 

 have no doubt that the plants would thrive. A temperature of from 50° to 55° is 

 sufficient for the stove kinds, and one of from 45° to 50° for the greenhouse sorts, 

 increasing the temperature in spring ; when, after a season of rest of not less 

 than three months, they will start into growth with increased vigor. Remove 

 the pots from the pans of water at once, and place in the coolest and most shady 

 part of the house. If they require potting, the best time to perform that opera- 

 tion is just as they are starting into growth. 



Annuals for late Blooming. — Centranthus macrosiphon ; Alyssum mari- 

 timum; Erysimum Peroffskianum ; * Dianthus Chinensis (Chinese pink); Gilia 

 achilleaefolia ; Hibiscus Africanus ; Gypsophila elegans ; Godetia rosea alba ; 

 Double Clarkia integripetela ; C. pulchcrrima ; * Prince's Feather ; * Love-lies- 

 bleeding ; White Rocket and Crimson Candytuft ; Centaurea cyanus minor ; Bar- 

 tonia aurea ; * Calliopsis cardaminifolia ; * C. alrosanguinea ; * C. Burridgi ; Cam- 

 panula pentagonia ; Convolvulus minor (Dwarf Morning-glory) ; * Saponaria 

 calabrica (Soapwort), and its white variety ; Eschscholtzia crocea and E. tenui- 

 folia; Godetia Lindleyana ; Obeliscaria pulcherrima ; * GEnothera Lamarckiana 

 (Evening Primrose) ; * Nasturtium Tom Thumb, scarlet, * crimson, * spotted, 

 and *yellowvarieties ; Virginian Stock ; * Tagetes signata pumila (Dwarf Mari- 

 gold) ; * Senecio elegans in variety. Those marked with an asterisk (*) should be 

 sown in May, and the others not until the end of May, or early in June. Migno- 

 nette should not be omitted. There are no flowers that are to be depended on. 

 for blooming after October, except chrysanthemums. 



