PROFESSOR AT KONIGSBERG 83 



the French Republic. 'There was plenty to amuse one. 

 Liberty, Fraternity, and Equality were flaunted everywhere ; 

 Property of the Nation was posted on all the public buildings, 

 and many private houses displayed other frightfully demo- 

 cratic devices. The country people and the lower classes 

 in the town looked just the same as in Baden, only they seemed 

 to be more stupid, but the better parts of the town appeared 

 thoroughly French/ 



After admiring the Cathedral of Freiburg, he visited the 

 1 World's Wonder ' at Schaffhausen, and was greatly impressed 

 with it. 



1 1 went down the hill to the bank : it certainly looked rather 

 bigger, more like a waterfall, but still I went to bed somewhat 

 disappointed. Next day, however, I got a different impression 

 of it. One does not appreciate its proportions in the evening, 

 because it is surrounded by rocks 200 to 300 feet in height, so 

 that the 6o-foot waterfall looks small beside them, and one 

 cannot see the chief beauty, the wonderful dark-green colour 

 of the water, which makes a magnificent effect as it mixes 

 with the white foam. The effect, however, is overwhelming 

 when one goes to a stage that has been erected at the edge 

 of the Fall, where the appalling mass of water dissolved in 

 foam and mist plunges down close to one. At first the sight 

 is hardly bearable, one loses breath, and feels drawn after it. 

 Afterwards, in spite of the constant shower of spray, I revelled 

 in the spectacle of this force and motion, and could hardly 

 tear myself away. . . . On Friday evening I reached Zurich, 

 and looked up Ludwig, who received me with great cordiality. 

 He has a noble and delightful nature, and is greatly improved 

 since he has got rid of that Bohemian manner. This is ap- 

 parently thanks to his wife, whom I have only learned to 

 know at present by her quiet, sensible ways. . . . He is a man 

 of the utmost kind-heartedness, and has formed an extravagant 

 opinion of my excellences, related to him partly by du Bois. 

 If you heard all the praises he showered upon me, you 

 would certainly have been satisfied with him. He is extra- 

 ordinarily industrious, works continuously in the right direc- 

 tion, and is adored by his students, as many of them said 

 and showed me, so that besides all the good work he has 

 done I hope still better from him. But he is somewhat 



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