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the moment when he threatens to impale them, and fix the 

 barbed plumes of feathers and ornaments on his neck, are 

 incomparably skilful. Immediately after, indeed, the bull is 

 diverted by waving a cloak in front of him, to prevent him 

 from repeating his attack. The fate of the bull is really 

 a subject for congratulation ; he falls in battle instead of in 

 the slaughter-house. It is true that the animal, by the time the 

 matador advances alone to give him the death thrust, is in the 

 last degree exasperated and distraught, and for the six bulls 

 that were immolated this coup de grace was successful at its first 

 delivery in two cases only. But what really shocks one is the 

 way the horses are treated, not merely in the arena but every- 

 where else, like those destined for death that are ridden against 

 the bull with bandaged eyes by the picadores, and are driven by 

 goads to the attack so long as they can carry them ; and the 

 way the public yells for new horses, Caballo ! caballo ! when only 

 one or two survive; this is the really horrible part of the 

 spectacle. If it were only an exhibition of human courage one 

 could forgive an element of savagery. But in reality they tire 

 out the bull by letting him rush repeatedly at the defenceless 

 horses, which he hates more than men, and it is only when he 

 is utterly exhausted that the men take part in the encounter/ 



* Malaga, Tuesday, April 6. Malaga is not particularly 

 characteristic. A fine Renaissance Cathedral, the tower of 

 which we climbed to get a general view of the town, is fairly 

 large and elegant. The sea-winds are injurious to vegetation 

 close to the town, but wherever shelter is afforded by the 

 mountains, there are huge groves of oranges, plantations 

 of sugar-cane, and the like. . . . We find Wattenbach's book 

 a great treasure ; it is more useful than Murray, Gautier, and 

 Amici. He has distinct talent as a Baedeker, and his prose is 

 not unworthy of Spain.' 



1 Tangier, Tuesday, April 13. We spent a very interesting 

 day in Gibraltar; one of the English officers, Col. Lempriere, 

 whom we met in the Ronda, gave us an order for the Galleries 

 where the cannon are posted round the northern side of the 

 rock, and we roamed from 10 till 4 through the tunnels of the 

 battery. ... It is impossible to express all the astonishment one 

 feels here in Tangier, on being suddenly plunged into the 

 midst of the Mohammedan world, as it is presented to eye and 



