1848.] VOYAGE TO THE LAKE. 67 



handsome birds were continually entering. The effect of the 

 scene was much heightened by the river often curving to one 

 side or the other, so as to bring to view a constant variety of 

 objects. At every bend we would see before us a flock of the 

 elegant white heron, seated on some dead tree overhanging the 

 water ; but as soon as we came in sight of them, they would 

 take flight, and on passing another bend we would find them 

 again perched in front of us, and so on for a considerable dis- 

 tance. On many of the flowering shrubs gay butterflies were 

 settled, and sometimes on a muddy bank a young alligator 

 would be seen comfortably reposing in the sun. 



We continued our journey thus for several hours, the men 

 rowing vigorously for fear of the tide turning against us before 

 we reached our destination : this, however, happened just as 

 we entered a narrower part of the stream. The scenery was 

 now much more gloomy ; the tall trees closed overhead so as 

 to keep out every sunbeam. The palms twisted and bent in 

 various contortions, so that we sometimes could hardly pass 

 beneath, and sunken logs often lay across from bank to bank, 

 compelling us to get out of the canoe, and use all our exertions 

 to force it over. Our progress was therefore very slow, and 

 the stream was every minute running stronger against us. 

 Here was a building-place for various aquatic birds : the wood- 

 ibis and numerous cranes and herons had their nests on the 

 summits of the lofty trees over the water, while lower down 

 was the station chosen by the boat-bill. There was a continual 

 rustle and flapping of wings as these long-legged, clumsy birds 

 flew about, startled at our approach ; and when I shot one 

 of the large wood-ibises, the confusion was at its height. 

 Numerous kingfishers were continually passing up and down, or 

 darting from some dead stick into the water to seize their prey. 



After about two hours of very hard and disagreeable work, 

 we reached the landing-place, where there was an old deserted 

 cottage, and the overseer and several Negroes with horses were 

 waiting to convey the provisions we had brought to the Lake. 

 We immediately set off on foot over an extensive plain, which 

 was in places completely bare, and in others thinly clothed 

 with low trees. There could not be a greater contrast than 

 between the scene we had just left, and that which we now 

 entered upon. The one was all luxuriance and verdure, the 

 other as brown and barren as could be, — a dreary waste of 



