CHAPTER X. 



FIRST ASCENT OF THE RIVER UAUPES. 



Rapid Current — An Indian Malocca — The Inmates — A Festival — Paint 

 and Ornaments — Illness — Sao Jeronymo — Passing the Cataracts— 

 Jauarite — The Tushaua Calistro — Singular Palm — Birds — Cheap 

 Provisions — Edible Ants, and Earthworms — A Grand'Dance — Feather 

 Ornaments — The Snake-dance — The Capi — A State Cigar — Anana- 

 rapicoma — Fish — Chegoes — Pass down the Falls — Tame Birds — 

 Orchids — Piunis — Eating Dirt — Poisoning — Return to Guia — Manoel 

 Joaquim — Annoying Delays. 



At length the long-looked-for canoe arrived, and we immedi- 

 ately made preparations for our voyage. Fish-hooks and 

 knives and beads were looked out to suit the customers we 

 were going among, and from whom Senhor L. hoped to obtain 

 farinha and sarsaparilla : and I, fish, insects, birds, and all 

 sorts of bows, arrows, blowpipes, baskets, and other Indian 

 curiosities. 



On the 3rd of June, at six in the morning, we started. The 

 weather had cleared up a few days before, and was now very 

 fine. We had only two Indians with us, the same who had 

 run away from Javita, and who had been paid their wages 

 beforehand, so we now made them work it out. Those who 

 had just returned from Barra were not willing to go out again 

 immediately, but we hoped to get plenty on entering the 

 Uaupes. The same afternoon we reached Sao Joaquim, at 

 the mouth of that river ; but as there were no men there, we 

 were obliged to go on, and then commenced our real difficulties, 

 for we had to encounter the powerful current of the over- 

 flowing stream. At first some bays, in which there were 

 counter-currents, favoured us ; but in more exposed parts, the 

 waters rushed along with such violence, that our two paddles 

 could not possibly move the canoe. 



