CHAPTER XII. 



THE CATARACTS OF THE UAUPES. 



Start for the Uaupes — Sao Jeronymo and Jauarite — Indians run Away — 

 Numerous Cataracts — Reach Carurii — Difficult Passage — Painted 

 Malocca — Devil Music — More Falls — Ocoki — Curious Rocks — Reach 

 Uarucapuri — Cobeu Indians — Reach Muciira — An Indian's House 

 and Family — Height above the Sea — Tenente Jesuino— Return to 

 Uarucapuri — Indian Prisoners — Voyage to Jauarite — Correcting the 

 Calendar — Delay at Sao Jeronymo. 



At length, on the 16th of February, two months and twenty-three 

 days after my arrival at Sao Joaquim, I left on my voyage up 

 the Uaupes. I was still so weak that I had great difficulty 

 in getting in and out of the canoe ; but I thought I should be 

 as well there as confined in the house ; and as I now longed 

 more than ever to return home, I wished first to make this 

 voyage, and get a few living birds and animals to take with me. 

 I had seven Uaupes Indians that Senhor L. had brought from 

 Sao Jeronymo, in order to take me up the river. Three more, 

 who had already received payment for the voyage, did not 

 appear; and, though they knew very well the time of my 

 leaving, had fixed on that very day to give a feast of fish and 

 caxiri. Antonio, my former pilot to Barra, was one. I met 

 him coming to the village from his sitio, and he flatly refused 

 to come with me, unless I waited some days more for him ; I 

 therefore made him send his Macu boy, Joao, instead, to go 

 and return, and so pay for what both owed. This he did, and 

 we went on our way rejoicing, for Antonio was what they call 

 an Indian " ladino," or crafty ; he could speak Portuguese, and, 

 strongly suspecting him of being an expert thief, 1 was not 

 sorry to be without his company. 



On Saturday evening, the 21st, we arrived at Sao Jeronymo, 

 where I was cordially received by Senhor Augustinho. The 



