THE GOOSEBERE Y. 



The gooseberry is propagated in the same manner, and requires 

 mach the same general culture as the currant — excepting that, as it 

 is a gross feeder, it requires a deeper and richer soil. 



Trench two feet deep, and fill in the bottom a heavy dressing of 

 fresh stable manure. Place the rows five feet apart, and the trees 

 three feet apart in the rows. Keep off all shoots from the'rootfe, 

 and trim to a single stem, from twelve to thirty inches high, and 

 keep the head well thinned out, but do not cut off the ends of the 

 young shoots. Free access of air and light is necessary, but no 

 shade. A writer in the Vermont Chronicle, in reference to the 

 high-bush mode of training, says : 



"I have one six feet high. This places your fruit out of the way 

 of hen?, and prevents the gooseberry from mildewing, which often 

 happens when the fruit lies on or near the ground, and is shaded 

 by a superabundance of leaves and sprouts. It changes an unsightly 

 bush, which cumbers and disfigures your garden, into an ornamental 

 dwarf tree. The fruit is larger, and ripens better, and will last on 

 the bushes, by growing in perfection, until late in the fall." 



Mildew. — The chief drawback to the culture of the gooseberry 

 in this country is, that the fruit is so liable to mildew. This is sup- 

 posed to be caused by a superabundance of heat, and too little 

 moisture in the atmosphere. Good culture will, in an 'eminent de- 

 gree, remedy this evil. 



High, open culture, free manuring, and copious mulching are the 

 best known remedies. Sawdust, or spent tan bark, makes a good 

 mulch for the gooseberry. It should be applied liberally — to a 

 depth of at least four to six inches. Hay, or other mulching mate- 

 rial, sprinkled occasionally with common salt, is likewise good. 



