1 888. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



67 



Roses. Of the Bourbon. Bengal, PolyautUa, and simi- 

 lar classes to be bent over and covered with soil or 

 sods laid grass side up. Hybrid Perpetuals especially 

 such as are delicate, to be protected with straight straw 

 tied on with heavy twine. The surface of all Rose beds 

 to be heavily mulched with nuiuure that Is half rotten 

 or less, for when well rotted It Is not so good. 



Staking Trees. With Evergreen trees, three stakes 

 should be driven close to the tree, and from each a 

 coarse cord be brought to the stem and back again, 

 protecting the bark where the cords come with a band 

 of leather. A mound of earth placed around the base 

 of the tree will aid further In steadying It. 



Trellises and support that are moveable, to be 

 sheltered, repaired, and painted where needed. 



PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



Ageratum seed, for line early plants, may be sown 

 during this mouth. 



Air-loving plants like Azaleas, Camellias, Heaths, 

 etc., should be freely provided with this element daily 

 when the weather is favorable. 



Azaleas. Give the forced plants when in bloom a 

 dry, cool place, while those coming next to be kept 

 warm. Push young plants as rapidly as possible, by 

 giving warmth and water. Guard against thrlp and 

 red spider. 



Bulbs. Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissuses, Crocuses, aud 

 SelHas, to be brought into heat for succeeding the 

 Roman and other earliest kinds; air freely and give 

 plenty of water. 



Calceolarias should now have a cool situation near 

 the glass, but protected from cold winds aud frosts. 

 Ventilate only enough to keep down mildew. Avoid 

 both over watering aud not watering enough. 



Callas. See that they be kept clear of aphis, as no 

 plant suffers more when once It becomes infested. 

 Give plenty of space aud water freely, using liquid 

 manure sometimes. 



Camellias show white scale now, if at all: examine 

 often, and cleanse with water and a brush. Water 

 carefully and syringe lightly twice a week, gi-ving an 

 even temperature. 



Cannas. Keep the roots of potted plants dry, and 

 in a cool place. 



Carnations. Avoid over wetness at the roots, but 

 syringe sometimes, and air as freely as possible. 



Centaureas. For strong plants the seed should be 

 sown promptly. Candida especially Is a slow grower. 

 Oentradenias. When showing buds, give light and 

 manure in liquid form. 

 Cinerarias. See under Calceolarias. 

 Cold Pits containing half hardy plants should be 

 aired freely In mild weather and covered on cold nights, 

 as the plants cannot well stand sudden and extreme 

 changes of temperature. 



Cyclamens for early young plants may be sown now 

 in pans near the glass. 



Deutzia gracilis for early blooming should be given 

 a warm, light situation. 



Fern spores may be sown in rough peat, either in 

 pans or pots under bell-glasses. 



Francisceas- Young plants to be shifted, then as 

 growth begins keep warm and well watered, syring- 

 ing several times each week. 



Heliotrope will be benefited by a warm, moist at- 

 mosphere and some manure water. 



Hellebores (Christmas Roses) force well In a cool 

 house, having flowers scarcely inferior to Eucharis. 



Insects. Fumigate twice a week for aphis or green 

 fly, and syringe daily or oftener to destroy red spider. 

 Mealy bug or scale can be gotten rid of by washing. 

 Slugs can best be captured at night, when they are 

 feeding, by the aid of a light. 



Mildew^ Is often present on Roses, Verbenas, and 

 such plants at this season. Dust powdered sulphur 

 over the plants early on a sunny day, first wetting the 

 foliage, aod then keeping the house close. 



Orchids require close attention; any drip from the 

 roof is injurious. While many kinds are still at rest, 

 others are inclined to move, and should be encouraged 

 by giving a warm moist situation; such varieties like 

 Aerides odoratum need a good deal of heat, with par- 

 tial shade, not allowing the roots to become dry. Re- 

 potting or renewing the Sphagnum or baskets is not 

 advisable at this season. 



Palms. Never allow the soil to become dust dry, and 

 thoroughly water when needed. 



Frimalas. Do not water overhead as it has a ten- 

 dency to cause the stems to rot; carefully give water 

 onlj' at the roots. As the weather admits, air freely, a 

 cool temperature, say from 45'= to 5l)° will favor stocky 

 growth. 



Roses. Syringe blooming plants twice dally. Prune 

 the "monthly" class, as the buds are taken, back to 

 within two eyes of the ba.se of the shoot. Once in a 

 while go over the plauts removing all "blind shoots," 

 or such as have ended their growth. A night heat of 

 from 55° to 60** is the best suited tt> the free develop- 

 ment of the bloom. 



Stocks. Scatter Tobacco stems about the plants and 

 fumigate freely, as they are liable to suffer from green 

 fly. Water carefully, remove dead matter, aud look 

 out for damping off in the Winter Flowering and Ten 

 Week sections. 



Thunbereias. For ))looming plauts have about 55'^, 

 syringing freely for red spider. 



Verbenas. Keep the plants cool and well aired. If 

 there is moss on the soil, remove it with a little earth, 

 replacing with fresh soil. Guard against over-water- 

 ing. See under mildew. 



Violets. Air freely when weather allows, stir the 

 soil and remove decaying matter. 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 



Bark. By applying a wash of lime, soot, and clay 

 with a brush, moss and vlrmin may be gotten rid of. 

 Care needs tol}e taken that no fruit spurs are Injured. 

 Clearing up. Stakes, ladders, barrels, etc., to be 

 sheltered; exposure injures more than ordinary wear. 

 Cuttings of Grapes, Currants, Gooseberries, etc., to 

 be well covered with evergreen boughs or similar 

 protective material. 



Dwarf Fear and other bush trees should not suffer 

 from accumulated snow; shake it off. 



Fruit. In the storage room remove any fruit at the 

 first sign of decay, as it will spread. As the earlier 

 varieties approach ripening bring to a warjner place 

 to finish the process. Market before softening begins. 

 Well-kept Pears win find a good market this mouth. 

 Grapevines. Prune on mild days; those set out last 

 spring to be cut back to three eyes; older ones to have 

 the past season's canes cut back to six or eight buds, 

 according to strength. As even the hardy sorts are 

 better for winter protection, lay the canes on the ground 

 covering with straw, branches, or soil, seeing that the 

 roots are well protected. 



Manuring. Now is an excellent time for applying 

 well-rotted manure to fruit trees of all kinds. 



Propagation by root-grafting can be done at any 

 time during the winter. Scions should be cut in mild 

 weather, choosing good ripened shoots; pay close at- 

 tention to labelling and store in a cool cellar. 



Rabbits may be kept from injuring trees by using 

 tarred felt, or smearing fresh liver or blood over them 

 frequently; for mice and such pests, remove all weeds 

 and tramp tiie snow firmly about the tree. 



Raspberries. Lay the tender varieties down and 

 cover with earth, top-dress the hardy ones about the 

 roots with good manui'e. 



Staking. Young trees in windy places should be 

 steadied by driving stakes dose to the tree, wind up a 

 wisp of straw to place between the stake aud tree; 

 cut a piece of old heavy duck, or else use leather of a 

 length to pass from the stake arouud the tree, and 

 back, drawing the tree tightly against the straw, and 

 nailing the duck fast to the stake. 



Strawberries. It is not yet too late to cover these if 

 not already attended to. 



Water. Ditches should be opened to carry off any 

 standing water. 



Winter leisure may profitably be employed in study- 

 ing improved methods, reading horticulture matter, 

 visiting different growers, and attending the meetings 

 of the societies held at this season. 



Tools as they pass out of use to be overhauled and 

 put In order, awaiting use in the spring; a coat of white 

 wash is easily applied and is a good preservative. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 



Cabbage should receive final covering for winter- 

 ing over. 



Celery. As the cold increases, Celery in trenches 

 should receive additional protection, in the shape of 

 leaves, litter, or the like. 



Cellars for vegetables to be kept as near 3.5°, the 

 temperature being regulated by a thermometer which 

 ought to be in every cellar. In warm cellars all roots 

 should be covered with soil which is kept moist. 



Cold frames containing Cabbage and other plants 

 to be daily aired In mild weather, but keeping close 

 and protected with shutters and mats at night and 

 during cold spells. Cauliflower plants are less hardy 

 than Cabbage or Lettuce. If mice trouble, trap or poi- 

 son. Clear snow from the sash promptly, unless the 

 ground within is frozen, when if it lays a week no 

 harm will be done. 



General Matters. Provide stakes, etc. for the com- 

 ing season . Repair frames, sashes, and tools for spring 

 use; repaiut and provide new ones where required. 

 Remove old bushes, do underdraining or trenching and 

 make any other alterations that are desirable. 



Kale. In the North treat as directed for Spinach. 



Manure is the foundation ol" all profitable vegetable 

 gardening; it should be collected from all available 

 sources, slaughter houses, breweries and like places. 



Onions. Keep dry at not over 40^. -September sown 

 seeds to be treated as for Spinach. 



Ridging the garden may be done any time before 

 the ground freezes hard. If with the plow the ridges 

 to be about four feet wide and as high as possible; by 

 spade-work there would be less of a ridge, but the 

 ground should be left lying uneven. If part of the 

 garden Is thus worked over and a part not, much 

 difference will be seen in earlluess and quality of crops 

 on the respective parts next year. 



Roots In pits to be banked over with additional 

 earth as winter fairly sets In. 



Spinach is helped by a coat of an Inch or two ot hay 

 or leaves, as hard weather comes on. 



Trimmings of trees and vegetables should not lay 

 about to harbor mice. Insects and other vermin. 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER 

 GLASS. 



Asparagus roots can be brought into heat for an 

 early supply. The roots for succession to be stored 

 where easily procurable. 



Dandelions may be treated as directed below for 

 Parsley. 



Grapery. In the cold house, vines after being pruned 

 to be laid down and covered completely with soil. In 

 early houses vines breaking should have a gradual rise 

 of heat, beginning at an average of 65** at night, with 

 10'^ degrees of sun heat. Too sudden a rise will make 

 long joints, weak growth, and Inferior crops. 



Lettuce. This Js a time of slow growth, aud there 

 may be many days when air cannot be admitted. 

 Water sparingly, as too much wetness In dark, close 

 weather will be likely to spoil the crop. Green fly 

 will be on the increase now, so keep the house clean by 

 smoking semi-weekly. Remove all decayed leaves. See 

 Answer to Inquiry No. 983. 



Parsley plants may yet be gotten In from the garden 

 for wluteror early spring use. Plant the roots lu rich 

 soil, not crowding them. 



Rhubarb. Treat as directed for Asparagus. 



Strawberries prepared as directed in previous 

 months may come to heat during December. Begin 

 with about 45'^, and as growth advances increase to 60^ 

 or 65*^'. Water amply, but avoid flooding. 



THE POULTRY YARD. 



Boiled Peas and Beans fed warm are excellent 

 winter eg"g"-foods. 



Don't crowd the poultry in their winter quar 

 ters if you expect them to thrive. 



The breast bone of a young goose is soft aud 

 easily bent, if hard and firm, it is impossible to 

 tell how old it may be. 



"Pumpkin Seeds," says Prof. Groff, "contain a 



medicinal principle, which, in large quantities, 

 proves poisonous to chickens and turkeys eating 

 them; some bcccnir jnuMlyzcd in the legs, while 

 others walk as thou^'-h inloxicated." 



Using Wood Ashes. Wood ashes, when scat- 

 tered over the poultry yard, causes sore feet, 

 due to the alkaline properties of the ashes. The 

 best mode of using is to first leach it, allow- 

 ing to dry, and placing them in a bex for the 

 fowls to pick over. 



Cabbage in Winter. Cabbage can be either 

 chopped fine and fed to the hens, or tied to small 

 stakes so that they can pick the heads at will. 

 There is no great amount of nitrogen in Cabbage, 

 but it serves as a change from grain to green 

 bulky food.— Ind. Farmer. 



Dressing Poultry, Dip the fowls in cold water, 

 let them drip and apply a half teacupfuj of pul- 

 verized rosin to the feathers with a dredging 

 box, then scald in the usual way. The rosin 

 sticks the feathers together, so that the pin- 

 feathers come out with the others, saving much 

 trouble. Use the common cheap article.— Am. 

 Poultry Yard. 



When to Market. If poultry raisere will ship 

 during the holidays, they will find " the other 

 fellow" about to do the same thing. Never sell 

 between Nov. 15th, and Jan. 15th as prices will 

 always be down. Hcrausc during That jieriodthe 

 markets are overst'iL-kcd, as poultry is perishable, 

 but high prices at other times, however, can be 

 had.— Poultry Keeper. 



A Poultry Car. The car is built for the con- 

 veyance of live poultry. It stands about 2 feet 

 higher than an ordinary box car; contains 116 

 compartments, each four feet square, in a series 

 of eight decks, with aisles running through it 

 crossways and another one lengthwise. The 

 capacity of the car is from 3,500 to 4,500 fowls. 

 Ily a sy'stcm of ilroj) decks, the fowls are loaded 

 and unloiuUd at thr bottom of the car, the sides 

 ol whiuh arc ot strong wire netting, in which 

 are the doors to the several compartrments.. On 

 the top of the car, in the center, is a water tank 

 largo enough to supply a full load on a journey 

 of two thousand miles. The food being carried 

 in a receptacle beneath the car.— N. Y. Commer- 

 cial Bulletin. 



Old Hens. My flock is mainly composed of old 

 ones, many being from eight to ten years old, 

 and they are still good layers. I have seen a 

 physiological or anatomical analysis of exactly 

 now many eggs a hen can lay, and invariably we 

 are tolil to kill all that are over two or three 

 years. 1 think the most important matter is to 

 secure a breed of non-setters. Mine are mainly 

 Plj'mouth Hock crossed with Hamburg Kock. 

 There arc also a few Hamburgsand Leghorns. 

 This cross of Plymouth Kock sjiorts to black, 

 and a non-setter. For mothers I keep a few 

 Brown Games- the best of mothers. But in 

 selecting a setter, I am careful tocho<^scone who 

 is not too wild, as the (iaims an- itu-liiied to be 

 flighty. Certainly, old hens if well led, and c-^pec- 

 iafiy through the moulting tieasi)u, will continue 

 to be good layers.— E. P. Powell. 



