1889. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



115 



for the work Is actuaUy at hand. Well-laid plaus are 

 more economical than in waiting until busy, then 

 jumping at eonelustons. 



Root Grafting may be applied to ornamental shi'ubs, 

 climbers and trees. 



Seed Sowing. At the South the hardier annuals 

 may be sown out of doors. In the North, Balsams, 

 Cockscombs, Globe Amaranths, Portulacas, Schizan- 

 thus, Phloxes, Brachycomes, Stocks. Tropteolums, 

 Cobaeas, Lophospermums, Acroclinlums, and the kinds 

 named under House Plants, may be sown in heat 

 before the month Is out. 



Shrubs. Pruning in the South may now go on. 

 North, however, it may be deferred several weeks. 

 The class including Roses, Hardy Hydrangea. Burning 

 Bush. CoronUla, Amorpha, Hypericum, Althaeas, Late- 

 flowering Spiraeas, and a few others that bear their 

 bloom on the new growth, may be cut back very 

 severely at this season with good results. But nearly 

 all other shrubs bloom from buds now on the old wood, 

 and to prune these now Is only to cut away many of 

 the flowers, so that but little more should be done at 

 this time, than to Improve the general shape. Just 

 after the blooming season, some months later, is the 

 time for the main priming of these. 



PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



Angle-worms. A perfect remedy for them in the 

 pots, is to soak the soil with lime wat«r once a month. 



Begonias of the tuberoussection, that were wintered 

 in pots to be started, and later given fresh rich soil; 

 those out of pots may be potted, and seed sown for 

 late summer flowering plants. 



Carnations for next winter's flowering should be 

 struck from cuttlDgs this month. Later, keep the 

 young plants robust by free airing. Flowering plants 

 should be restaked and retied. 



Cinerarias. For greatest beauty, flne foliage Is as 

 necessary as good flowers; watering regularly, with 

 considerable air, will help in this matter. 



Cytisus, when done blooming, should be cut back. 



Fumigating with Tobacco is now to be attended to 

 regularly, at least twice each week; with so doing 

 little tntuble will be had. If neglected, however, it 

 will be almost impossible to clean out the green aphis, 

 etc., by plant selling time. 



Hollyhocks are easily raised from cutting If a stock 

 is at baud iu shape to start up. 



Insects. The usual remedies of fumigating twice 

 a week with tobacco smoke, for green fly, and others; 

 syringing daily for *-ed spider, in houses of high heat, 

 must not be neglected for they increase with great 

 rapidity at this season of high sun-heat and closeness. 

 Scale and mealy bug, though increasing more slowly^ 

 do not yield so easily; hand-picking, washing or brush- 

 lug are the best remedies. 



Mignonette may be sown now with advantage. The 

 plants will, during the summer months, make rapid 

 growth, and later on be prized for winilow and con- 

 servatory decoration. 



Orchids that begin to grow during the time they are 

 in flower, should be shifted immediately, as the beauty 

 of the flower wanes. The materials for use in shifting 

 are good Hbrous peat, sphagnum moss, broken crocks 

 and charcoal. Aerides, Vandas, Saecolabiums, Den 

 drobes, <:;felogynes, and several others do best in 

 sphagnum with small crocks or sharp saud. Cattleyas, 

 La-lias, Oncidiums and Odontoglossums do equally 

 well In peat mixed with crocks and a little coarse 

 charcoal; a mixture of peat and moss is more suitable 

 for some others. 



Felaigoniums. Water freely, in warm, bright days. 

 but over watering will cause spotted leaves; light 

 rich soil, free airing, and fair pot room are needed. 



Poinsettias after drying off, are best placed in a 

 somewliat cool place, even If not very light. 



Potting. All cuttings, as roots appear should go into 

 small pots, using light, rich soil, potting rather ttrmiy. 

 In potting or shifting plants, broken pots or gravel in 

 the bottom ot every pot larger than six inches Is 

 usually required for drainage. In six-inch pots or lar- 

 ger, there should be a layer of sphagnum or hay on 

 top of the hard drainage before filling in the soil, to 

 prevent clogging. 



Roses. For propagation use cuttings from the best 

 woo<Iof recent growth; after the cuttings are put in 

 they must never suffer from lack of water, as this 

 would put them in a bad condition. 



Salvia splendens. If the giowth, of stock 

 plants be greatly checked at any time In the winter, It 

 is difficult to get good plants for the following season. 

 The proper conditions are ample root room, and a 

 rather cool temperature. 



Schizanthus. Use open soil that is one-third dry 

 rotten cow manure. Shift from now on until Ihey 

 are in 4-inch or r)-inch pots for flowering; air freely. 



Sedum Seboldii to he taken from their winter quar- 

 ters, started and then repotted, in good soil. 



Stove plants need a geueral going over at this time 

 or a little later. Such as have been blooming iu the 

 winter, require to be cut back, and encouraged to 

 break, then to be shifted if needful, or have top-dress- 

 ings. Any of these plants In flower, must be kept 

 dry over-head. 



Verbenas. If the plants are at a stand sttll. by shak- 

 ing out and repotting In rich, fibrous new earth, they 



will usually Improve quickly. Keep near the glass and 

 give plenty of air. 

 Watering. See under House Plants. 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 



Firming the soil over the roots of Sti-awbervles or 

 any fall set plants or shrubs, by tramping It as soon as 

 it thaws, is a good stroke of work for early spring. 



Grapes. In a dry place, a good fertilizer is stable 

 manure, but avoid using it on wet ground, else the 

 vines may become diseased; wood ashes, bone dust, 

 and similar material would be better. 



Manuring. Top-dressing orchards that are not 

 growing with vigor with flne old manure would be iu 

 order. Spread the mamire evenly, 



Pr ning. Push In comfortable weather. See last 

 month under this head. 



Recording Maps of the orchard and fruit garden, 

 should be kept to ensure against loss of names by loss 

 of labels. Such are easily made by using smooth, 

 strong, heavy paper, striking Hues and cross lines as 

 many as there are rows of trees or plants, and then 

 clearly write the name of every variety in its place. 



Root Grafting is seasonable work, and Is much 

 practiced for increasing the Apple, but answers as 

 well for many other subjects. See page 98 for further 

 directions. 



Soil. For an orchard site, a deep, even If rather 

 a poor soil is to be preferred to one much richer, but 

 shallow. 



Top Grafting. If the grafts have been cut and prop- 

 erly buried in earth (this may yet be done, if at 

 once,) to keep them naturally moist, late grafting, say 

 at the time the leaf -buds burst, is better than earlier. 

 See page 98 this Issue. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 



MANSFIELD MILTON, MAHONING CO., O. 



Cabbage and Cauliflower. Sow seeds for early 

 plants aliout the middle of the month In boxes if to 

 be staited in a greenhouse; if in hotbeds in drills six 

 inches apart. Secure the best seed and sow thinly 

 Water after sowing with tepid water and keep close 

 until vegetation takes place. Any heads that are buried, 

 lift and market as soon as possible; the frequent 

 freezing and thawing from now on causes rot. 



Have all your plans made now about cropping. 

 Know ju.^t exactly how many plants of this crop you 

 intend planting, liow much ground you require for 

 that crop and the place you are to plant them. If yitu 

 are a market gardener raise what your marked 

 demands; if for family use put in what your family 

 likes l>est. 



Hotbeds should now be made for the raising of early 

 plants. See that the heating material is in good condi- 

 tion by iteing thoroughly heated all through. Whether 

 pits are used or surface beds, spread the manure and 

 shake it up well with the fork so that It settles evenly. 



Mats for covering the glass cold nights should be on 

 hand and should be large enough to lap over 

 the sides of the sash. 



Onion Sets wanted for early can be profitably 

 raised in hotbeds and greenhouses. Plant them deep 

 so that they will have a long white neck. The Silver 

 Skins are best for early. 



Parsnips. Dig in favorable weather and have 

 ready for use. 



Radishes may now be sowu. the Turnip-rooted 

 varieties being the best for forcing. 



Salsify. See under Parsnips. 



Soil for Hotbeds should be of a light nature, half 

 h)am an<i lialf leaf mold or well decayed hops or ma- 

 nure: use sand if the loam inclines to clay. If there is 

 a depth of two feet of heating material place six inches 

 of soil; if less manure use less soil. 



Tools. Look them over and see that they are in 

 good condition. Repair such as are out of order and 

 purchase any new ones wanted. Good tools save labor 



Tomatoes in localities where they can be planted iu 

 the ground the first of Way, and a few seeds for extra 

 early plants should now be sown. 



Ventilation should be carefiUly attended to on all 

 suitable days. Be careful not to allow the sun to shlue 

 bright on the bed with the sash closed, as the young 

 plants are easily scorched. Sometimes the bright sun 

 shines with a cold wind; shade the glass with some 

 light material Instead of raising the sash and allowing 

 a cold current to pass over the plants. 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER 

 GLASS. 



Cucumbers. Keep down any fruit that shows before 

 the plants are <iulte strong. When ready for fruiting 

 the hills will want earthing up somewhat with nice 

 Uglit loam, and the vines stopped regularly one joint 

 beyond the fruit. 



Figs that are being forced should now be freely 

 syringed. They need more water also at this time, and 

 weak, useless growth, thinned out. 



Grapery. In early houses keep the vines well trained, 

 and the laterals dlslntdded. After blooming, do not 

 syringe the liunches. but every inch of wall and path 

 should be well nudstened to keep down red spider. 

 Do not, however, create so much moisture as to cause 



mildew. As to newly starting up vines, see directions 

 in the .lanuary issue. 



Lettuce Is u crop that grows flnely under glass during 

 this month and later. Provide about 45*^ of heat at 

 night. Give an abimdauce of air In mild weather. 

 Water liberally, but not to excess, and fumigate or lay 

 cut Tobacco stems about the plants to destroy or 

 prevent the green fly. 



Orchard House- The trees will set their fruit better 

 for free airing while blossoming is going on. Keep 

 the atmosphere dry at this Important stage, but after 

 the fruit is set, syringe freely with tepid water. 



Rhubarb. Continue to bring in for succession. 



THE POULTRY YARD. 



Fowls tbat are kept supplied with gravel, 

 charcoal and green t'ciod ai-e not often troubled 

 with indige-stion or diarrhoea.— O. J, Farmer. 



Turkeys for Setting. Set a good hen to hatch- 

 ing chickens; take her first brood away as soon 

 as out and let the incubator keep right on for 

 raising twt.t or three broods.— vVm. Farmer. 



The best hatching egga are those first laid in 

 spring though the first laid by pullet-s should not 

 be set. After a hen has produced thirty or forty 

 eggs in regular succession, the system becomes 

 enfeebled and the eggs are more or less wanting 

 in vitality.— Poultry Monthly. 



Variety in Feeding. By this we mean both 

 raw and cooked food— meat, \'egetables, scraps, 

 green food. Corn, Oats, Kice, Barley, Wheat, 

 pounded bones, etc. For any class of fowls, the 

 varied feeding plan is always the most bene- 

 ficial.— Poultry Yard. 



The Season for Profit. The winter season, 



though laborious, is really the most profitable, 

 for poultry and eggs are then usually high and 

 but little other work could be done, and, while 

 the hens lay test in summer,when eggs are cheap 

 yet, if warm quarters are provided, the eggs 

 received in the cold season will be a large item. 

 One source of winter profit is from the usually 

 scarce winter broilers. 



Care of Young Chicks. No food is allowed for 

 thirty -six hours after hatching, being kept m the 

 brooder where a temperature of UO" is main- 

 tained. The first food sht)uld be stale bread 

 dipped in fresh milk and squeezed dry given a 

 number of times daily, with fresh water. Gran- 

 ulated Oatmeal is also placed so they can help 

 themselves at anytime. Three times a week a 

 beaten raw egg, at the rate of one for 2.5 chicks, 

 may Itc mixed with the bread and milk. Hard 

 boiii'il I'ggs ami much meat cause bowel disease, 

 but a little may be given twice a week. Mashed 

 Potato is always excellent, and after the first 

 week give cracked Corn and screenings instead 

 of * ►atmeal.— Farm and Fu'eside. 



Improving Poultry. The old proverbial "barn- 

 yard fowls" are rapidly disappearing, making 

 room for thoroughbreds. By systematically 

 selecting the best birds for breeding j.urposi-s. 

 the stock will improve constantly, and there are 

 realized, not only the profits of general poultry 

 raising, but the breeding stock will soon l)<-c<«m"e 

 known and briiig extra prices. Plymoutli li(»k. 

 Wyandotte, and Lutigshan stand forem«»>t as all- 

 purpose fowls, while the Java, Houdan, and 

 Dorking have aK<i stmng elaims and meet manv 

 general requirements. Whatever breed is chosen 

 success dejiends upon the careful selection of 

 the breeding stock in poultry, as m ueh as in other 

 animals.— American Agricultuiist. 



Food for Fowls. Buckwheat is fatt«^ning, and 

 fed sparingly-, there is no better food. Wheat 

 is (me of the best egg producing fooils. < hits corn- 

 ing next. Corn is excellent for a night-teeil und 

 for setting hens, as it keeps a emttinual body 

 heat. Rye occasionally, gi\es lite to tlie st4>ck, 

 while oyster shells and ground bone form egg 

 shells; sand aiitl gra\ el helping to grind their 

 food. Beet .scraps, mixed with corn-meal mush, 

 fed several times a week increases the egg sup- 

 ply. Wo(id charcoal is tasteless, so feed that 

 made from Corn col)s. in liberal quantities. 

 Milk with cornnnal scalded in a stitf mass, is rel- 

 ished and is good lor eggs. Sunfiower seeds pro- 

 mote laying and hcalth.—Farmcr's Magazine. 



Eggs in Winter. I ha\-e for a few years past 

 been able to secure a good showing of eggs in 

 winter and from old fowls at that. My first 

 point is to feed well during moulting season thus 

 helping the fowls over this trying period, so as to 

 get them to laying again before severe weather. 

 Farm fowls are neglected at this most important 

 perioil,and not being profitable are allowed to 

 grub as they can. With feathers half off they 

 aieehilled and weakened; and then bitter weather 

 comes on and they are too worn out to lay I>e- 

 fore spring, so give plenty of warm feed in ( >cto- 

 ber and November. My next rule is to house 

 them warmly in roomy winter (luartei-s. Their 

 room is a part of an underground stable open to 

 the south with a sunny window. Fi'om this they 

 can go out as they like into a yard nn<l into the 

 stables. The ground is c(tvered with sluning.s 

 ami cleaned once a week; while at the same time 

 kerosene is p(mred over the nests and njosts. I 

 have a mixture of White Leghorn, Brown ijeg- 

 horn. Silver Hamburgh, Plymouth Hock, and 

 Hrown tbime. Roosters have been Hamburghs. 

 Thecrossisalaying stock and mostly non-setting. 

 It does not pay a farmer to raise cliiekens. lie 

 can buy his pullets more cheaply when he counts 

 the loss of chicks from weasels, skunks and rats. 

 What I want is eggs.— E. P. Powell. 



