1889. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



159 



Window Boxes. For full ilirectlon for these, see 



page U'8. March Issue. 



LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN. 



Annuals. See under Seed Stiwioi;. 



Bnlbs. Hyacinths. Tulips, Lilies. Crown Imperials, 

 Phloxes. Irises, etc.. do better if allowed t4» remain in 

 the ground for years undisturbed. Dahlias. TtKiidias. 

 Erythrina. and other tender bulbs that were wintered 

 inside can be planted, when danger of frost is over. In 

 warm rich soil. 



Cold Frame plants, like Violets, Roses and Carna- 

 tions should be exposed to the air more and more'for 

 gradual hardening off prior to planting. 



Flower Beds. Such as are designed for summer 

 flower, and in which Hyacinths, Tulips, etc.. have 

 been growing, may be cleared by taking the bulbs up 

 after blooming, with some sou adhering to the roots 

 and putting them Into boxes till ripened, not neglect- 

 ing moderate watering, and when dry store away. 

 The beds then can be dressed lightly with manure, and 

 gotten in readiness for the tender plants. 



Gladiolns. Get a first planting in early in the month 

 and then follow with plantings at intervals of two 

 weeks up to June. 



Hardy Plants. What these plants, which remain 

 year after year, require is to have their soil dug up 

 deeply and then later given good applications of well 

 rotted manure. 



Lawn. Where manure was applied in the fall, the 

 coarser parts should be removed and the surface well 

 raked for livening It up, removing the dead grass also, 

 and then roll. As the grass growth requires mow 

 promptly, cutting often but not too closely. New lawns 

 may yet be started, remembering that the best results 

 follow on the best methods of making. 



Planting. For all hardy things have the soil fine. 

 fertile and plant with great care. Some leading points 

 to observe; Do not expose the roots needlessly; set in 

 the ground only as deep as they were in the nursery; 

 pack the soU firmly about the fine roots; cut the top 

 well back, otherwise it will require more moisture 

 than the roots can supply. 



Prune the hedges during this month. 



Seed Soaring. All the hardy annuals like Candytuft, 

 Mi^onette. Sweet Pea, Larkspur, Pansy. Eschscholt- 

 zia. Sweet Rocket. Lupine, etc.. may be sown. In the 

 North the following varieties can go in the open grotind 

 when the soil is dr>'; Amaranthus, Antirrhinum, Calen- 

 dula, CalUopsis, Clarkia, Helianthus. Phlox Drummon- 

 dii. Poppy, Portulaca. Morning Glory, Gulden Feather, 

 Grodetia, Zinnia, Marigold, and the like. 



Tuberoses ought to be started in hot-beds or the 

 window, as the season North of New Tork Is rarely 

 long enough for them to grow entirely out of doors. 



PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



Altemantheras. For bedding stock see last month. 



Annuals from early sowing must not become 

 crowded; thin or transplant and pinch back the tallest 

 and weaker ones. 



Carnations. Increase the later bloom by a top dress- 

 ing of fertilizer. 



Crow^dingat this season should be guarded against 

 by using outside frames. 



Cnttings. Examine such as are in the bed and pot 

 ofl^ at first appearance of roots. 



Ferns in pots to now have the soil renewed or be 

 given a shift. It is beneficial to break the old outside 

 roots somewhat . 



Orchids. Shade from direct sim rays and repot such 

 as require it. as they are growing. Preserve the moist- 

 ure by generous sprinkling of the walks etc. 



Pot-bonnd Plants of Petunias. Fuchsias, Hydran- 

 geas, Calceolarias and others can be watered entirely 

 with liquid manure while in bloom, with the best of 

 effect. This treatment Is also suitable for such hard 

 wooded plants as Genistas, Daphnes Azaleas, Neriums. 

 etc., whether in bloom or making their new growth. 



Primroses of double sections, white or red, ought 

 not to have their propagation deferred later than the 

 middle of April, as the warmer weather is detrimental 

 to best results. While rooting, provide heavy shade, 

 giving air but not too much water. 



Roses. For a late crop, top-dress with old manure. 

 Keep the young stock In a healthy growing condition. 

 free from weeds, well watered, and do not neglect 

 fumigating for green fiy. Bear in mind that two year 

 old Bennetts have proven the most valuable; pot the 

 plants when the bed is cleared, and then at the proper 

 time replant into new soil, just as with young plants. 



Shade with naptha and white lead over such sub- 

 jects as are liable to blister, as Fancy Coleus, Caladi- 

 urns. Fuchsias, Camellias, Azaleas, Callas and others. 



Shifting. This operation should go on actively in all 

 departments, using new or well washed old pots. 



Tree Planting. For making a good job the soil 

 should be mellow, somewhat dry. with the hole accom- 

 modating the roots without crowding; the hair-like 

 roots being firmly packed in fine soil, no manure going 

 against them however, then settling the ground solidly 

 about the newly planted trees. 



Borers. A preparation of cement, soap and skim 

 milk Is recommended, coating the tree for several feet 

 up from a little below the ground surface; enough of a 

 shell Is formed to repel the borers. 



Grafting. For full direcUons see page 98 in the Feb- 

 ruary Issue. 



Heel-in all trees as soon as received If not ready to 

 plant, keeping each variety separate, by covering the 

 roots with ground firmly packed against them. In 

 this shape they can remain as long as is necessary. 



Orchard. As fruit trees require potash dress with 

 unleached wood ashes, or, as substitute, three parts 

 bone dust and one part muriate of potash. 



Quinces ought to have a rich mellow soil. By giving 

 a liberal dressing of old manure on the surfaceover the 

 roots, old trees will be helped; careful trimming of 

 branches Is of benefit. 



Raspberries. Any excess of canes beyond four or 

 five may be well removed. Use the suckers from the 

 red ones for planting another patch, setting the plants 

 three feet by sL\ or seven feet apart. 



Seeds of Cherry, Peach and others that were kept 

 over winter should be sown as soon as the soil can be 

 worked. All fruit and ornamental tree seeds to be 

 sown also without loss of time. 



Slraw^berries. Plant new beds as early as possible 

 after the ground is in shape. Before tlry weather ap 

 pears mulch bearing beds that require it for keeping 

 the fruit clean. Uncover the old beds by removing the 

 mulch from directly over the plants. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 



SIASSFIELD MILTON, MAHOXISG CO., O. 



Beans. For early sow the green-podded varieties; 

 they are the hardiest. 



Beets. Sow for main crop. 



Cabbage. For late and mediimi kinds sow in well 

 prepared ground. When plants of the early sorts 

 have been thoroughly hardened off, set into open 

 ground. Treat Cauliflower in same way. 



Carrots. Sow both early and late kinds. 



Celery. For main crop sow in open ground. Trans- 

 plant early kinds started in hot-beds. 



Cress. Sow in sheltered place and for succession 

 every two weeks. 



Cucumbers. Sow for succession in frames, and the 

 last of the month in a sheltered place in open ground. 



Cultivation of the Ground. Commence as soon as 

 the seedlings appear; it facilitates growth and helps to 

 check Insects and weeds. 



Hot-beds. Give the closest attention in watering 

 and airing. 



Onions. Where not already done plant and sow at 

 once. This crop is hardy. The earlier in the groimd 

 the better. Seedlings started in boxes or frames may 

 be planted out for early use, a good substitute for sets. 



Parsley. Sow in well prepai*ed groimd. 



Peas. Sow for succession. The smooth varieties 

 are hardiest but wrinkled kinds can now be sown. 



Parsnip thrives best where well rotted manure is 

 used. Sow early. Use fresh seed only. 



Potatoes. Set out carefully such as were sprouted 

 in hot -bed. 



Pol Herbs. Sow all kinds. 



Radishes. Sow French Breakfast, or one of the 

 many first early Red Turnip sorts for early; Golden 

 Globe and Lady Finger for summer. 



Spinach. Sow for succession. 



Thinning- This is of utmost importance. Don't 

 neglect it. It makes earlier and better vegetables. 



Turnips. Sow any quick maturing kind. 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 



Apricots. Do not allow any water to stand about 

 the roots, as it Is very injurious. 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER 

 GLASS. 



Cucumbers. Generous feeding, with plenty of water 

 will be required to keep the old bearing plants in a 

 productive stale. Young plants should be growing 

 freely and slopped as needed. Do not use liquid 

 manure freely until in bearing. 



Figs. With much bright weather a night tempera- 

 ture of eu" to To-^ may oe given, but should the weather 

 be dark a lower degree will be better. Figs, though 

 delighting in heat and moisture, do not get along well 

 without corresponding air or light. Top dressing the 

 soil with fresh horse manure is beneficial, because of 

 the ammonia thus sectired. Do not allow the fruit to 

 be too thickly placed. For young stock put cuttings 

 in sandy, well drained soil, with sharp bottom heat. 

 With good treatment fruit may be had in two years. 



Lettnce. Cold frame plants if transplanted to hot- 

 beds will produce an early crop. For forcing. Tennis 

 Ball and White Forcing Head are good. 



Pines that are fruiting are benefited by free airing, 

 and being watered with warm manure water made 

 rather weak. 



Strawberries now in fruit will need plenty of water, 

 and until color begins to show, some liquid manure. 

 Ventilate freely. Thin the fruit somewhat on the more 

 heavily loaded plants for securing berries of a good 

 size. After fruiting harden the plants gradually. If 

 wanted for new beds, before moving them outside. 



Vines in the latest houses should be stopped. Syringe 

 twice daily, and promote a sturdy growth by ventila- 



tion. Water with liquid manure if growth seems weak. 

 Keep a close Iof)kout for red spider. Give good atten- 

 tion to thinning. 



THE POULTRY YARD. 



A Moveable Houbc. a k^>oJ I»I"n for a small 

 nuinlHT (»f heus is to make a small house, say 

 cijrlit by tfii with roosts and boxes, and let the 

 roosts reach through so that you can use them 

 at each end as handles and thus move the house 

 about. This f?ives the fowls a chance at fresh 

 grass, and clean soil.— E. p. Powell. 



Keep the Hen with the Chicks. In cold weath- 

 er the longer the chicks remain w;th the hen 

 the better, as they will thrive better than if left 

 to themselves, even if somewhat large. The few 

 eggs a hen may lay after weaning her chicks 

 will be no equivalent for lack of warmth to 

 them, and they may be also in need of her help 

 and guidance.— Mirror and Farmer. 



Keeping Eggs for Hatching. They should be 

 kei't as near 40 degrees as possible, though as 

 high as ijO degrees will keep them, but they must 

 not be subject to freezing. If turned half over 

 three times a week, they will keep for six or 

 eight weeks, and if not higher than .50 degrees 

 they should keep three months and hatch well. 

 The turning of the eggs is the most important 

 point.— Poultry Keeper. 



Experience with the Guinea, I once accepted 

 a pair of guinea fowls, and these wretched birds 

 were always in mischief. They killed many 

 chicks, so the coops had to be guarded closely 

 from their most persistent attacks. At last pa- 

 tience was a virtue no longer, and the guineas 

 hung on a limb of a tree, but the birds were un- 

 eatable, tough, devoid of flavor; I understood 

 why gumeas are not appreciated by poultry- 

 keepers. And of the proudly-arrayed peacock, 

 I have only to say that it is a more monstrous 

 fraud than a guinea,— Xew York Tribune. 



A Good CroBB-Breed. Get high-combed White 

 Leghorn cocks, keep two years, then cross with 

 Black Polands one year, and at the end of six 

 years you will have arrived at as near perfection 

 in a healthy egg-producing fowl as can be, and 

 they also make the best of mothers. Thin out 

 undesirable ones regardless of age; never allow 

 more than tiO in one house; have a tight floor two 

 feet above the ground, in each house to avoid 

 dampness, minks, skunks, etc., and have no two 

 houses closer than at least fifteen rods apart.— 

 Orange Judd farmer. 



Marketing Points. If you don't kill and dress 

 your poultry in good shape and send it to market 

 in attractive style the chances are strongly in 

 favor of your getting a second-rate price. " On 

 no account scald the fowls before picking. Dress 

 neatly by drawing the intestines, emptying the 

 gizzard and keeping every speck of blood or filth 

 from coming in contact, t'ut off the head, sever 

 the wings at the outer joint, hare the legs picked 

 clean to the knee joint, singe the hair from the 

 body, being careful not to discolor it. wind each 

 bird about the wings in strips of clean, white 

 cotton cloth, pack in clean boxes, with rye straw 

 between the layers of poultry, the birds upon 

 their backs with legs extended.— Farm and Home 



Wiere one desires to prosecute the poultry 

 business by natural means alone, rely on eggs for 

 the principal income, because it has been abund- 

 antly pri)\ en that there is a reasonable profit in 

 it; but where the main income is expected from 

 the much larger profit of dressed market poul- 

 try, and especially the early sales which bring 

 twice or thrice or four times the prices of the 

 later ones, do not attempt it unless by artificial 

 means, for it cannot be done 'except in a verj- 

 Umited extend. Brahmas will drive the or- 

 dinary man to the almshouse before they begin 

 to lay, and even when they are lai-ge enough 

 for early broilers, they are all leffs. and those 

 who want broilers will not take them.— Massa- 

 chusett's Piowmau. 



Why not Baise More Backs. The duck is less 

 liable to disease, lays as many (and larger) eggs 

 as the hen. and the ducklings nearly grow twice 

 as fast as chicks. The advantage in favor of the 

 hen. are that she will endure confinement better, 

 and is not as voracious as the duck, and it has 

 been claimed that the ducks could not be kept 

 profitaV)iy without the aid of ponds, but such 

 ducks as the Pekins could be kept in yards 

 with no water except for drinking. Under such 

 conditions, as they have little exercise, great care 

 is required in feeding them. When laying, they 

 need more animal food than hens, but at other 

 times a diet of cut grass is the best food that can 

 be gi\eu, with a mess of cooked Potatoes and 

 ground Oats at night. Ducklings will be ready 

 for market in eight weeks after hatching, if well 

 fed.— Mirror and Farmer. 



Advantages of Ducks. They are very hardy, 

 are entirely free from vermin and are liable to 

 few diseases. They take to confinement much 

 better than fowls and a cheap (very low) fence is 

 sutBcieut to keep them in the desired place. They 

 stand transportation better than most kiuds of 

 fowls. They are great eg^ producers, and their 

 feathei*s are worth about 50 cents a pound. If 

 kept growing when young, the Pekin duck will 

 commenee lajing when five or six months old, 

 although like pullets, somewhat less prolifically 

 than when more mature. They will molt slightly 

 iu December and soon after that will resume 

 laying, producing 1:^0 to Itii eggs within a year, if 

 well cared Utr. We have the impression that not 

 until Feb. 1st are ducks' eggs sufliciently fertile 

 for hatching.— New England Farmer. 



