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POPULAR GARDENING. 



May, 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN.* 



XXV. 

 BY A WELL-KNOWN HORTICrLTTJRIST. 



(Continued from page 140) 



Borecole or Kale (class C). A foreign 

 dish, the production and consumption of 

 which is constantly on the increase in this 

 country. Borecole is a species of Cabbage, 

 and needs very rich soil. Sow in April or 

 May, in beds like Caljbage, and transplant 

 to the open ground in three foot rows two 

 feet apart In the rows. Cultivate same as 

 Cabbage. Dwarf Green Curled Scotch is the 

 leading sort and quite hardy. A variety of 



Snijichall tauhflowei . 

 Kale, known under the names : " Siberian 

 Kale," "German Greens" or "Sprouts," is 

 much cultivated and used as greens In 

 early spring. Sow in early fall in rows one 

 foot apart, and treat as for Spinach. 



Broccoli (class D). This vegetable 

 closely resembles Cauliflower, and requires 

 the same treatment. Excessive richness of 

 the soil is the first requisite. Plants are 

 grown in beds, from seed sown early in May, 

 like Cabbage or Cauliflower plants, and set 

 out in open ground late in June or early in 

 July, two feet apart in three foot rows. 

 They are ready for use in late autumn. 

 White Cape and Purple Cape are the varie- 

 ties generally grown. 



Brussels SpRotTTS (Class D). Cultivated 

 for the miniature Cabbage heads which 

 form all along the main stalk, often entirely 

 enveloping it. Although a delicious vege- 

 table, it is rarely seen InAmerican gardens, 

 owing to its being somewhat tender. Grow 

 plants in beds, sowing seed in April or May, 

 then set them out two feet apart each way, 

 early in July, and cultivated same as Cab- 

 bage or Cauliflower. 



Cabbacje, Early (Class D). Highly ma- 

 nured, deeply plowed, and well-prepared 

 soil is required to bring this crop to the 

 greatest perfection. For the early crop, 

 sow seed in hot bed in February or March, 

 and transplant into cold frames three or 

 four weeks later; here by gradual exposure, 

 to harden them preparatory to planting. 

 Or plants may be bought from the nearest 

 market gardener, or the seed may be sown in 

 the rows right where the Cabbages are to be 

 grown, and gradually thinned to the proper 

 distance. The entire destruction of a patch 

 by the ravages of the Cabbage maggot can 

 often be prevented by the latter plan, as 

 there are almost always enough unaflfected 

 plants left in a crowded row to give a full 

 stand. Avoid growing Cabbage in succes- 

 sion on the same land, or planting it after 

 other members of the Brassica family. Dip 

 the roots of plants in water, when setting; 

 cultivate often. 



Cabbage, Late (Class C), is generally 

 grown to follow early Peas, Radishes, Let- 

 tuces, etc. Sow the seed in a bed late in 

 March or in April, and transplant in June, 

 two by three feet apart. If the heads are 

 inclined to crack open, push them over 



•Copyright, 1887, Popular Gardening Publishing Co. 



with the foot. Select varieties : French 

 Oxheart, Early York, Early Jersey Wake- 

 field, for early; Henderson's Early Sum- 

 mer, Vandergaw, and Winningstadt for 

 second early. Flat Dutch, American 

 Drumhead, Fottler's Brunswick, and Drum- 

 head Savoy are among the best late sorts. 

 Buhach or California Pyrethmm, if fresh 

 and dusted on the Cabbages when needed, 

 or applied in solution by means of a force 

 pump, is an infallible, cheap and conven- 

 ient means of clearing the plants of the 

 dreadful green worm now so common. 

 Caulifower (Class C). As a rule. Cauli- 

 flower is a doubtful crop for the market 

 gardener, though ordinarily in home 

 garden it will yield enough for the 

 table. In growing plants in cold frames 

 for wintering over, as is done about 

 New York and south, the seed is sown 

 the fore part of September,and in about 

 five weeks the plants will be ready to 

 prick into the frames .500 or60o to a sash. 

 During the severe weather the sash are 

 kept closed, airing freely on suitable 

 days as spring approaches. These plants 

 should be planted in the open ground 

 as early as possible in April, so as to 

 have the heads well formed before the 

 hot weather, otherwise only " buttons " 

 are liable to be produced. An early 

 crop may also be grown from seed sown 

 in March in a hot-bed and transplanted 

 several times before the final field 

 planting. For the late fall crop the 

 seed is sown at the same time as late Cab- 

 bage, planted, cultivated, and otherwise 

 treated like it, except that the ground 

 should be somewhat richer and the cultiva- 

 tion cleaner, though not to be worked late 

 as its roots are shallow; irrigation can 

 sometimes be given it with advantage. In 

 the final stages of growth about one-half of 

 the leaves should be tied together above the 

 forming head as soon as this shows, for if 

 this is not done it will become discolored 

 from the sun, dew and rain, and in very hot 

 drying weather it might be even necessary 

 to employ paper or other artificial covering, 

 as the leaves are likely to wilt and let the 

 light in between them. Select Early Varie- 

 ties; Early Snowball, Early Erfurt and 

 Early Paris: late, Algiers, Le Normand, 

 Walcheren and Autumn Giant. 



Cardoon (Clase C). In some ways resem- 

 bles the Artichoke. Sow seed in early 

 spring in rows three feet apart, and thin to 

 about 18 inches. Tie the leaves together in 

 early fall, bank, blanch and preserve some- 

 what like celery. 



Carrot (Class E). As an early crop 

 for forcing in cold frames, seed is sown in 

 March, in rows, six inches apart, and the 

 plants thinned to two or three inches. 

 When the roots have attained an inch in 

 diameter at the thickest part, they are 

 pulled, bunched and marketed. For garden 

 culture sow in early spring, and perhaps a 

 few weeks later for succession, in rows 14 to 

 16 inches apart, and thin to three or four 

 inches apart in the row. It is advisable to 

 mix and sow a few Radish seeds with the 

 seed, to indicate the rows for early cultiva- 

 tion, which is only second in importance to 

 the earliest practicable removal of weeds 

 from among the young plants. Deep warm 

 soil, and good cultivation are of greater 

 consequence with this crop than excessive 

 manuring. For field culture, for stock 

 feeding and as a money crop these Carrots 

 are not appreciated as they deserve. Three 

 hundred barrels per acre on common good 

 soil is by no means an unusual crop. Plow- 

 ing a furrow away from the row in digging 

 makes this work quite easy. Top and store 

 in fall like beets. 



Early French forcing is the earliest grow- 

 ing under glass, but Half-Long Red and 

 Half-Long Scarlet, and Danvers are used 



by many gardeners. Long Orange and 

 Danvers are grown for main crop, also 

 largely for stock. White Belgian and Yel- 

 low Belgian are by far the heaviest croppers, 

 but considered inferior and less nutritious 

 than the Red sorts. 



Caraway (Class F). The aromatic .seeds 

 of this are used for flavoring. Plant thinly 

 in rows, and give clean culture. 



Catnip (Class F). Useful for medical 

 purposes. Entirely hardy, and easily grown, 

 it is generally considered more of a weed 

 than a plant for the garden. 



Chervil (Class E). Is cultivated the 

 same as Carrots or Parsnip and has a 

 peculiar Sweet Potato flavor, which is still 

 improved by freezing. Sow the seed very 

 early, as during warm and dry weather it 

 requires a long time to germinate. 



Celeriac (Class E). A distinct variety 

 of Celery, cultivated for its bulbous roots, 

 which are used for flavoring soups, or boiled 

 and sliced and served with oil and vinegar 

 as a salad. Start the plants very early un- 

 der glass and set out in spring in rows IX 

 feet apart, five or six inches in the row. 

 hill up slightly. The newer Apple-rooted 

 variety is an improvement on the common 

 Celeriac. 



Celert. — (Class B and C). For first early 

 the plants may be grown in frames, al- 

 though this method is not practiced much 

 except in a few favored localities on a rich, 

 cold, moist, peaty soil. The home grower 

 can get a good supply of excellent plants 

 by sowing seed just as early as the condi- 

 tion of soil permits in shallow drills, one 

 foot apart (Class F), merely firming the soil 

 with the feet or otherwise, applying small 

 doses of nitrate soda or more liberal ones of 

 liquid manure, giving good cultivation, and 

 keeping scrupulously clean from weeds. 

 Thin by narrowing the rows of plants, and 

 cutting out, leaving not more than forty or 

 fifty to the running foot. 



With good plants to begin with Celery 

 is easily grown. In the latter part of June 

 or in July (and further south even in Au- 

 gust) set the plants in rows, 3J< feet apart 

 for the dwarf, and four feet for the later 

 sorts, six inches apart in the rows. Celery 

 is generally used to follow earlier crops, 

 such as Peas, Beets, Early Cabbage, Let- 

 tuce, Onions, Spinach, etc., and if the land 

 was heavily manured in spring for the pre- 

 ceding one, little more is needed. Most 



Evergreen Sweet Corn. 



growers, however, open a furrow for each 

 row, throw in some well rotted compost and 

 fill in with soil; then set the plants. This 

 practice gives good results. Radishes or 

 other quick maturing crops may be grown 

 between the Celery rows, and will be out of 

 the way by the time the Celery needs all the 

 ground. Clean cultivation is essential. 

 Mellow soil will retard the evaporation of 

 the moisture which this crop needs above 

 most others. 



" Handle " in September, by packing soil 

 up against the plants to make them grow 

 erect, and later bank up clear to the top 

 leaves in order to bleach the stalks. Celery 

 intended to be wintered over should be 



