IS89. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



205 



can be used to finish up. A white sheet 

 under the tree and a sudden jar any time in 

 the cool of the day (a calm day) will bring 

 them down. If this is done during the heat 

 of the day they are apt to fly away 

 before you can get them. 



What Fruits to Plant. 



E. UORDEN', NIAGARA FALLS, SOUTH ONTARIO. 



In naming varieties I shall confine myself 

 to the best for market purposes. Market 

 varieties will, however, give satisfaction to 

 the greater portion of those who grow for 

 home use. Hardiness, uniform productive- 

 ness, good appearance and freedom from 

 disease are useful peculiarities in any case. 



Of all the wonderful new Strawberries of 

 late years with me only the Crescent holds a 

 firm place. The old Wilson is still used 

 largely here. The Sharpless is not always 

 productive but is planted largely. A Straw- 

 berry that multiplies plants as well as the 

 Crescent and has the uniform productive- 

 ness of the Wilson with large size, good ap- 

 pearance, and good shipping qualities is 

 much needed. In Red Raspberries the 

 Cuthbert is very much ahead. Of many 

 others tried I can recommend none. 



In black caps Tyler, Souhegan, Mammoth 

 Cluster and Gregg are a success with me. 

 Greggs, owing to late ripening, great size, 

 firmness and productiveness, take a decided 

 lead. In more unfavorable localities the 

 other varieties are safer. The Taylor is a 

 favorite Blackberry. I am trying many 

 other kinds but do not like any of those that 

 are well known here. 



The Hawthorn Gooseberry is, I think, the 

 best Gooseberry, but in the market cannot 

 well compete ^vith the larger Downing. 



In Red Currants I have for a dozen years 

 grown Raby Castle by the thousand. One 

 of my neighbors has planted them largely 

 and will plant several thousand more. 



Black Currants are in demand in Canada 

 and are now called for in New York state. 

 The coming Black Currant is slow in 

 getting here. 



In Black Grapes tthe Worden is coming 

 rapidly to the front. It is larger, earlier 

 and better than the Concord. It grows 

 nearly as well but is not quite so firm in the 

 skin. Delaware, Brighton, Salem and Lind- 

 ley are red Grapes of considerable merit. 



Owing to the vigor and productiveness of 

 the Niagara Grapes and the vigor of its 

 advertisers and disseminators, it is the lead- 

 ing white Grape. In consequence of the 



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Rye 



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XX- 



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Vlaniing Melons, etc., in Rye. 



above circumstances the price of white 

 Grapes will doubtless be very low hereafter. 

 The hitherto high price of red and white 

 Grapes has been the result of a short supply. 

 With a large supply they are likely to be 

 cheaper than black Grapes. 



In conclusion I advise new beginners to 

 plant the old cheap, well tested varieties. 

 If you have some money to throw away for 

 the good of the cause, buy the new and 

 wonderful kinds. 



Raspberries in Garden and Field. 



"ELDER'S WIFE." 



Many persons having "only a garden 

 spot," refrain from planting berry bushes 

 because they "sprawl all over," when other- 

 wise they might grow their own berries, 

 thereby saving the expense of buying, be- 

 sides having more and better berries. The 

 following plan is well suited to gardens and 

 we follow it in field growing and believe it 

 pays. The plants are set in rows six feet 

 apart and three feet apart in the row. Stakes 

 are driven at intervals of 20 feet or more 

 along the rows, the end ones more slanting 

 outward to brace them, and No. 12 wire is 

 stapled to them at three feet from the 

 ground for the first year and raised to four 

 feet the following year. 



While the ground is still frozen in the 

 spring, the old canes are cut out; the new 

 canes are then tied to the wire by passing 

 pieces of wire (about the size of No. 8 thread) 

 five or six inches long, around both wire 

 and cane, being careful not to twist one end 

 around the other, else the motion of the 

 cane will soon outdo your work. Cut off 

 the ends of the bearing canes back to strong 

 thrifty size; if too long to hold themselves 

 stoutly above the wire bring the end down 

 and tie to the wire further along. You can 

 now cultivate, hoe, and later pick your 

 berries without the annoyance of having 

 some briar continually catching at your 

 clothing or fiesh, and refusing to let go, and 

 in your struggles to escape shaking the 

 luscious fruit from the hush to waste upon 

 the ground. Pic];ers after once picking in a 

 patch treated as above, do not like to pick 

 in those grown in bush form, and the 

 expense after the first outlay for wire and 

 stakes is light and is more than equalled by 

 the saving in fruit and young canes which 

 would be wasted and broken down by 

 the other method. 



If one wishes to be extremely economical, 

 they can use Willow twigs. Rye straw or 

 Corn husks for tying as some do, but if their 

 time is of any value, wire is far cheaper, for 

 aside from its greater ease of application, it 

 is also more easily removed. 



Melon and Other Vines in Rye Field. 



Covering Melon, Cucumber and Squash 

 plants with a frame, mosquito netting or 

 similar device and thus hiding them from 

 sight, or surrounding them with bad smell- 

 ing substances, thus disguising their scent, 

 are generally considered the surest means of 

 protecting the young plants from destruc- 

 tion or serious damage by insects. Planting 

 on a larger scale where said fussy devices 

 are not in favor, is a rather risky undertak- 

 ing just on account of the dangers threaten- 

 ing from such formidable foes as the yellow 

 striped Cucumber beetle, the black Squash 

 bug, Squash borers, etc., and often from 

 the Melon fungus. 



We have generally favored the plan of 

 "wide rotation," in other words, planting 

 on a piece of land at the greatest possible 

 distance from where vines were grown the 

 year before. This greatly lessens the risk. 

 Mr. W. F. Bassettof New .Jersey, some time 

 ago told us of a method successfully prac- 

 ticed by growers somewhere in his neigh- 

 borhood. The piece to be planted is put to 

 Rye in the fall. At planting time in the 

 spring double furrows are plowed out both 

 ways as shown in illustration so that the 

 intersections are .iust far enough apart each 

 way for the hills, that is for Cucumbers 

 and Musk Melons five or six feet, for Water 

 Melons eight or ten, and for Squashes ten or 

 twelve feet from center to center each way. 



Now the crop is planted in the usual way, 

 allowing the hills to grow on unmolested. 

 By the time the plants are up and the dan- 

 gerous period of their lives begins, the Rye, 



now several feet high, serves as a most 

 effective protection. Insects are neither apt 

 to see nor scent the young plants. When 

 the vines begin to run and danger is nearly 

 past, the ground between the hills— with 

 Rye left on or taken off, at the grower's 

 option — must be plowed over, and thorough 

 cultivation given. The plan is worth a 

 trial. It is also of greatest importance that 

 all running vines in the garden are stimu- 

 lated by very high feeding, to assist them in 

 outgrowing the period of danger as 

 soon as possible. 



A Subscriber's Plan for Berry Crate 

 Making- 



J. H. BOOMER, ALLAMAKEE CO.. lOWA. 



Last season I devised a thing to help me 

 in nailing Berry cases and am well pleased 

 with the way it works. It is a strong box 



^ 



^^ 



Making Bci'iy Crates, 

 about three feet long, 14 inches high, and 

 one foot deep made of inch Pine. I use 

 the 24 quart crate for Hallock Berry box, 

 bought in the flat. My nailing device is 

 made to fit this crate, but such a box might 

 be adjusted for any other crate that is 

 bought in the flat and would only need 

 other dimensions. 



I cut three slots just the width of the 

 thickness of the ends and middle pieces of a 

 Berry crate as far apart as they should be 

 when the crate is finished. In my case 

 these slots are cut out the side of the box 

 about four inches deep, and consequently 

 the ends and middle pieces, when put into 

 the slots, will extend about two inches out 

 at the side and one inch above the top of the 

 box. On the side opposite the slots I nailed 

 on little strips so that the crate ends rest in 

 grooves. When ready for use the box is 

 placed on its side, top toward you. When 

 your case is ready adjust the crate ends and 

 the middle piece (the illustration shows 

 one of the ends in its proper place), then lay 

 a side piece across the ends, and nail it fast. 

 Next turn the box on its back and nail on 

 the bottom of crate, then draw out the half 

 finished crate from the slots, turn it around, 

 keeping the bottom of the crate toward you, 

 place it back into the slots and nail on the 

 other side. The crate is then ready for the 

 small Berry boxes. 



If the device was made true and square 

 and solid, your crates will all come out 

 square and uniform, one exactly like 

 another, and the small Berry boxes will 

 have just room enough without crowding or 

 without having space tor play. I think I 

 can easUy nail three crates by the help of 

 this device to one nailed entirely by hand, 

 and I am sure I can make them truer. 



1,2S5. Nicotiana. Nieotiana aflinis is a con- 

 tinued bloomer. After blooming? during: sum- 

 mer cut down to about one inch of the ground, 

 and pot for winter. Propagated from seed— 

 which needs about thirteen days to germinate — 

 and from cuttings.— Mrs. Z. M.iy Waite. 



1,291. Lice on Cabbages. These and all other 

 aphids may be destroyed by spraying or washing 

 with what is known as the " Resin " compound, 

 which is made by boiling one pound of concen- 

 trated lye in two quarts of water, then adding 

 four pounds of resin and boiling until dissolved. 

 Dilute each quart of this soap with one gallon of 

 soft water, and spray or siirinklc the infested 

 plants with it. The mixture should be used when 

 quite warm, say 12U°, and when applied in a fine 

 spray may even be used well nign boiling hot.— 

 D. B. WiER. 



