2l8 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



June, 



exhibitions are cut from maiden plants, and 

 generally speaking the advantage which the 

 nurseryman usually has over the private 

 grower is due to the large breadths at his 

 command of plants raised from buds in- 

 serted in the summer previous. 



There is yet another point of considerable 

 importance. Freqiient removals of Roses 

 after they have been worked is not favora- 

 ble either to longevity or vigorous growth. 

 Therefore it is a decided advantage to 

 plant the stocks where the trees 

 or bushes are wanted, and then bud 

 them and allow them to remain un- 

 disturbed. It is not always practic- 

 able to plant the Briers or Manettis 

 in their permanent positions, when 

 grown simply for the embellishment 

 of the flower garden. The space may 

 not be available at the time or there 

 may be an objection to fill imoccu- 

 pied beds and borders with subjects 

 that will not at once commence to 

 produce a display of flowers. There- 

 fore in many instances the Rosarian 

 is compelled to plant the stocks in a 

 nursery bed and leave them undis- 

 turbed until they have been worked 

 and had one season's growth. Even 

 then the Rosarian who buds his own 

 Roses will have an advantage over 

 those who obtain their trees from a 

 distance. He will be able to take ad- 

 vantage of the most favorable oppor- 

 tunities for transplanting as they 

 will not be out of the ground when 

 the work is properly done, for any 

 length of time, the roots are not in 

 any way injured by exposure to at- 

 mospheric influences. When the 

 stocks have to be planted elsewhere 

 than in the beds and borders of the 

 pleasure grounds, the most suitable 

 place for them is a spare quarter of 

 the kitchen garden, as the thorough 

 tillage it will have previously under 

 gone will be favorable to the production of 

 an abundance of fibrous roots and strong 

 weU-ripened wood. 



The best period of the year in which to 

 bud both Briers and Manettis is from the 

 middle of the current month to the end of 

 August, and the earlier the buds are insert- 

 ed after the second week of June the better, 

 provided the operation can be satisfactorily 

 performed. Usually the stocks are in the 

 best possible condition for entering the buds 

 during July. The stocks will require some 

 attention, and where there is a superabund- 

 ance of shoots some must be removed. The 

 proper course to take in the preparation of 

 Brier stocks of all de.scriptions is to select 

 at an early date the two most promising 

 shoots near the top, and rub ofl" all the oth- 

 ers as they make their appearance. When 

 the stock is rather weakly, one or two 

 .shoots in addition to those required for bud- 

 ding may be allowed to remain to assist in 

 strengthening the stock. But, as a rule, 

 two shoots only should be left. If the thin- 

 ning of the shoots still remains to be done, 

 considerable care will be necessary in reduc- 

 ing the number. To allow all to remain 

 until the autumn will not be advisable, and 

 the removal of any considerable proportion 

 will probably so far check the flow of sap as 

 to greatly interfere with entering the buds. 

 Speaking generally, the best course will in 

 these cases be to remove about one-half of 

 the superfluous shoots now, aud the re- 

 mainder either when the buds have started 

 and are growing freely, or early in the 

 winter. The shoots selected for the recep- 

 tion of the buds should be wholly untouched 

 by the knife, or be shortened just sufficiently 

 to admit of the bud being inserted at the 

 base without any great difficulty. In short- 

 ening the shoots for the purpose of expe- 

 diting the work, it must not be forgotten 



that the more severely they are pruned the 

 more likely is the flow of sap to be checked. 

 When they are cut back rather hard, as is 

 sometimes done under the impression that 

 the vigor of the shoots is diverted to the buds 

 entered upon them, it is frequently neces- 

 sary to delay the operation of budding until 

 the flow of sap has been so far restored by 

 the production of secondary shoots that the 

 bark will part rewlily from the wood. 

 The proper time for commencing to bud a 



FIG. 1. HOW TO BUD ROSES. 



Rose depends wholly upon the condition of 

 the stocks, and it maybe stated as a general 

 rule that it is useless to attempt it unless 

 when the bark parts freely from the wood. 

 After rain this happens with more cer- 

 tainty, and if the weather is cloudy there 

 will be less evaporation, and consequently a 

 much better chance of success. Therefore, 

 as far as practicable, choose dull weather 

 —aud if after a good soaking of rain so 

 much the better — for it is essential to suc- 

 cess that the bark of the bud and of the 

 stock be brought into conjunction quickly, 

 and at a time when there is plenty of sap in 

 the latter. In bright, hot weather the oper- 

 ation should be performed early in the mor- 

 ning or in the evening; and when the bark 

 does not part so readily as could be wished 

 a thorough soaking of water in the after- 

 noon will frequently cause the sap to rise 

 sufficiently free during the night to admit 

 of the buds being successfully entered in 

 the morning or evening of the day follow- 

 ing. To water Rose stocks on a large scale 

 will in most cases be impracticable, but 

 where there are two or three hundred only, 

 it will not be a heavy task to well saturate 

 the soil about their roots, and as the water- 

 ing may make considerable difference in the 

 result the labor should be willingly given. 



The best heads of standards and the most 

 shapely dwarf bushes are formed of one bud 

 only, but to avoid losing a season two should 

 be entered. The head of each Brier should, 

 as a rule, be limited to two shoots each, and 

 if both buds take, remove, at the spring 

 pruning, the top one by a clean, slanting 

 cut through the stock immediately above 

 the lower shoot. If this is done the top of 

 the Brier will heal over, and conditions 

 being favorable, a healthy growth will fol- 

 low. Frequently Briers decay half through 

 where the Roses are united to them in con- 



sequence of the want of attention to the heal- 

 ing of the head of the stock. Everything 

 being in readiness, cut as many scions as 

 can be used in an hour or so, attach a label 

 to each so that no mistake may arise, and 

 stand them in a water-pot in which a little 

 wet moss has been placed. As the scions 

 are taken from the trees the leaves should 

 be cut ofl" immediately below the lowest 

 pair of leaflets, as by thus reducing the 

 evaporating surface the shoots do not so 

 readily part with the moisture. This 

 practice should certainly be adopted 

 when the scions are obtained from a 

 distance. Taking the shoot firmly 

 Ik ^ ^° ^^^ hand, take off the bud with 

 Vj ^^ a small slice of bark and wood, as 

 shown in the accompanying sketch 

 at A. The bud, when it has been 

 cut from the shoot and has had the 

 leaf removed just below the leaflets, 

 is represented at B. The wood being 

 removed by the thumbnail we have 

 the shield C consisting of the bark, 

 the bud, and a small portion of the 

 leaf stalk. 



To enter the bud make what is 

 technically known as a T incision at 

 the base of the shoot as shown at D. 

 It is important in making the cross 

 incision at the top not to cut into the 

 wood because of the liability of the 

 shoot to be snapped off by the wind 

 at that point where a comparatively 

 deep cut is made. Because of this 

 it is becoming the custom to make 

 the longitudinal incision only. But 

 the T incision is the best adapted to 

 the requirements of beginners, be- 

 cause of the facility with which the 

 bud can be inserted, and a neat 

 junction effected at the top line. 

 The incision having been made and 

 the bud prepared, the bark is slightly 

 raised by the handle of the budding 

 knife, and the shield thrust into 

 its place as at E. Here it will be seen 

 the top of the shield overlaps the top of the 

 incision, but this overlapping must not be 

 allowed to continue. Consequently the top 

 of the shield must be neatly cut to fit the 

 top of the T incision as at F, where we see 

 the insertion of the bud completed. It now 

 remains to be bound up with cotton wool or 

 bast. Either may be used with success, but 

 bast is perhaps the best. In using bast 

 select soft strips, and keep them in a can of 

 water ready for use. It is essential to bind 

 with care, and allow the leafstalk with the 

 bud at the base to peep out as at G, so that 

 when the latter starts into growth it will not 

 meet with any check to its full development. 

 It remains to be said that buds on Manettis 

 and Dwarf Briers from seed and cuttings 

 should be entered as close to the ground 

 line as possible, that when they are replant- 

 ed the union may be below the surface 

 without the stocks being buried to any con- 

 siderable depth. {The young plant as it 

 should appear, is shown at the right of the 

 smaller illustration, while the plant shown 

 at the left is budded wrongly and worthless.) 

 In about six weeks after the insertion of 

 the buds carefully examine the heads, and 

 if the bud is swelling and the binding has 

 the appearance of being rather tight, loosen 

 the ligature. In some cases it may be ad- 

 visable to remove the ligature and rebind 

 the bud. To avoid the risk of having the 

 buds blow out, the new growth should re- 

 ceive support immediately the shoot is of 

 sufficient length to be influenced by the 

 wind. The best way of supporting them 

 is to tie a stiff stick, about a third of an 

 inch in diameter, to the head of the stock 

 and secure the young growth to it as it rises. 

 The sticks should be long enough to be 

 from fifteen to eighteen inches above the 

 head of the stock when securely fixed to it. 



