POPULAR GARDENING. 



July, 



(ith they were fully three times as large and 

 growing vigorously, I think the above 

 application combines the two necessary 

 features of a remerty in this case, viz: some- 

 thing that will kill the maggots, and at the 

 same time stimulate the plants to a new 

 growth of root. The lime destroys the 

 worms and does not seem to injure the 

 plants in the least, while the manure water 

 keeps the ground moist and cool and helps 

 the plants to get started again. Strong lime 

 water alone, no doubt can be made suc- 

 cessful, and if necessary the plants may be 

 stimulated with artificial fertilizer in so- 

 lution. I think the eggs are often laid on 

 plants in the seed bed, and another year 

 shall apply strong lime water to the plants 

 when transplanting and also make earlier 

 examinations of the plants in the field. 



with some firm soft material as Indicated 

 by f in illustration. 



After the above details have been attend- 

 ed to, shorten the stock back to have one 

 leaf remaining above the point of union, 

 (our engraving shows none) and smear the 

 grafted point over with soft clay. The ne.xt 

 step is to provide for keeping the graft clear 

 from air during the time of the union. This 

 is shown at d. A .small jar or a wide- 

 mouthed bottle is placed over the graft, and 



Grafting the Orange and Lemon. 



Where Is the window gardener who has 

 not many times wished to possess a grafted 

 Orange or Lemon tree? A questicjn put to 

 every commercial florist many times every 

 year, is "can you graft my Lemon or 

 Orange tree?" Now this operation of graft 

 ing the members of the Citrus family is a 

 very simple one provided certain conditions 

 are observed, and we purpose in the present 

 article to to tell how it may be success- 

 fully done by the amateur. 



Fii'st as to the stock, the "wild'' Lemon 

 to be operated upon. Both the Orange and 

 Lemon are generally grafted or budded on 

 the Lemon stock. Choose perfect seeds or 

 pips from common Lemons, dry them well 

 and sow in light sandy soil in a shallow / ' 

 box. When the seedlings are several inches ^ 

 high, set them separately into small pots ■/■ 

 using a light rich fibrous earth. Were i^ 

 they to be grown on a large scale it would "^ 

 be equally safe to set them into rich light 

 garden soil instead of potting. 



Two of the requisites in successful Citrus 

 grafting are warm weather and protection 

 of the graft from the air. During July and 

 August is the preferable season. The stocks 

 should be the size of a pencil or nearly that. 

 The bud or graft may be procured from any 

 thrifty tree of an improved variety, which 

 atthe time has half ripened wood. Such a 

 section of the wood should be taken as has 

 plump eyes. The veneer method of graft- 

 ing shown in our illustration is the best. 



uUtu-e of the Orape. Mrst, Second, and Third Tear. 



Lemon Tree in Pot. 



The graft is prepared as indicated at a by 

 cutting it off nearly square into a slight 

 slope away from the leaf side. Then a shav- 

 ing is taken oft as shown, cutting smoothly 

 and a little below the bark. The stock is 

 cut as at b first with a crosswise cut, then 

 with one lengthways, from above down to 

 the first cut and to match in shape with the 

 cut on the graft. The cut surfaces of graft 

 and stock are then brought together and;tied 



its moutli around the shoot is packed closely 

 with moss, cotton, or soft paper. The plant 

 should at the same time be shaded, but no 

 place either under glass or within can be 

 too warm for it at this stage. When the 

 graft has taken, which may be known by its 

 showing signs of growth, gradually harden 

 it off by removing the material from the 

 mouth of the bottle tor a few hours daily, 

 increasing gradually each time until it is 

 hardened. 



Lemons may also be budded during the 

 summer months in the same way as Peach 

 trees, but as trees of better form and also 

 earlier are secured by grafting, this course 

 is the preferable one. All trees of the Citrus 

 family should be freely supplied with water 

 while in a growing state. The pots should 

 be kept well drained with pot shreds or the 

 like in the bottoms. As the balls of earth 

 become matted with roots the plants should 

 be shifted into larger sized pots. 



It may not be generally known how to 

 distinguish between the young plants of the 

 Lemon and the Orange. The leaves of the 

 Lemon as shown in our second engraving 

 usually.have a plain, or nearly so, leaf stalk, 

 while those of the Orange have what ap- 

 pears like an extension of the leaf-blade 

 downward in the form of a small wing on 

 each side of the stalk. Some botanists re- 

 gard this peculiar form of leaf as indicat- 

 ing a reduced compovmd leaf. 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE-SEC- 

 OND PAPER. 



Planting, Pruning, and Tuaining the 

 Vine. 



BY DR. J. 9TAYMAN, LEAVENWORTH CO., KANSAS. 



In pruning we must observe nature, and 

 follow her precepts. A tree grows upright 

 and supports itself, while a vine trails and 

 needs a support. The one may liear fruit 

 on old wood and spurs, but the other only 

 bears from new wood which must be annu- 



ally renewed. We find vines trailing on a 

 tree, but we also see them trailing on low 

 brush, and bearing fully as well, if not bet- 

 ter. This seems to establish the principle 

 (which we think cannot be successfully 

 controverted) that it is as natural for a 

 grape vine to trail on a low support as It is 

 to climb high up into space. 



The best system of pruning and training 

 the vine Is that which is in harmony with 

 the principles of nature, and in trying to 

 make it intelligible, we will commence 

 with the planting of the vine and give the 

 progressive steps. 



The ground should be thoroughly 

 ploughed and pulverized about eighteen 

 or twenty-four inches deep, and on steep 

 hill sides, even deeper. Then lay off the 

 ground on gentle slopes for strong grow- 

 ing varieties as the Concord and Ives 8 feet 

 by 8, and on steep hill sides and for slow 

 growing varieties as the Delaware and 

 Jessica H feet by 6 and set short stakes for 

 each vine. Procure good, strong, well- 

 rooted one-year-old vines, shorten-in their 

 roots to about twelve inches long, dip them 

 in water and keep moist by either wrap- 

 ping in a sack or placing them in a basket 

 with damp moss. 



Now let a person go in advance and dig 

 out the holes for planting, about eighteen 

 inches long, twelve wide, and eighteen 

 deep on the lower side of the stakes, and 

 close to them without removing them. If 

 the ground is level always open the hole 

 on the same side of the stake and with the 

 TOWS. Let another person follow imme- 

 diately after with the damp vines, and 

 plant them in the fresh soil by spreading 

 out all the roots regularly on the same side 

 from the stakes, then flJl in good strong soil 

 amongst the roots and pack it tight, by 

 gently tramping the earth if not too moist. 

 When finished, the stem should be close to 

 the stake with two buds above the ground, 

 as may be seen in theleft cut. If the work is 

 done in the fall which is the best time for 

 planting in Kansas, mound up the earth 

 over the top of the vines and remove it early 

 in the spring before the buds start. Stakes 

 should now be procured about five feet long 

 and about one inch and a half in diameter, 

 which will do to train the vines on the first 

 two years. Some persons let their vines 

 trail on the ground the first year, but this is 

 a slovenly practice and costs more in the 

 end, for your trellis must be erected one 

 year sooner, or you will have to procure 

 stakes the second year. 



If your vines are strong train up two canes 

 the first year (tie with Willow, straw, etc., 

 cut up in suitable length). Your vines will 

 grow more stocky than if one cane only had 

 been trained up. 



Keep the ground well cultivated and clear 

 of weeds throughout the season; you may, 

 however, plant between |the rows, Straw- 

 berries, Tomatoes, Turnips, and light hoed 

 crops. Raise no layers from your vines as 

 they weaken your plant, except to replace a 

 missing vine close by. In the first fall after 

 planting the vines will appear as in the cen- 

 ter with two canes. You may prune them in 

 fall or spring to two spurs of two_buds each. 

 The second year train up four canes from 

 the two spurs as shown to the right. If we 

 were to train up but two canes as generally 

 recommended they would grow about ten 

 or twelve feet long, and concentrate too 

 much growth on the top of the vine, which 

 would have to be cut away. Moreover they 

 would be in danger of being injured by high 

 winds etc., but if we train four canes they 

 will each be shorter, and shorter-jointed, 

 consequently there will be more strength 

 concentrated in the roots, stock and spurs. 

 Whatever gives an undue length of growth 

 without corresponding stockiness adds suc- 

 culence to the growth of both roots and 



