1889. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



263 



imens are selected, the fruit holding on well into 

 the winter. Even now a specimen in the Arbor- 

 etum is as brilliant with its scarlet fruit as in 

 October. The Ink Berry is a fine evergreen 

 shrub. Especially ornamental as under shrubs 

 are the Halesia (Silver Bell or Snowdrop tree). 

 The Andromedas and the Huckleberries and 

 Blueberries are all useful and nothing can excel 

 their rich autumn coloring. The Shad Hush 

 { Amelanchier) is almost the first shrub to blossom 

 in our woods, and the Bai-berry, witli its fragrant 

 yellow flowers and scarlet fruit, is very orna- 

 mental; and so are the Wild Honeysuckles, with 

 scarlet and orange flowers. Other beautiful 

 native shrubs are the various species of Phila- 

 delphus, Potentilla, Hypericum, Kose Acacia, 

 Elderberry, Indigo shrubs, Ampelopsis, Bitter 

 Sweet and many others, many varieties of which 

 are easily transferred from their native haunts 

 to the lawn for permanent 



Mr. Dawson next ga\e a general list of hardy 

 shrubs, beginning with the Clematis, of which 

 he named the following species; Virginiana^ 

 white, a climber; Pltchcri, dark purple, flower- 

 ing all summer; crispa, pale blue, fragrant; Ver- 

 ticiUariti, with large, pale purple flowers; Vitalba^ 

 the travelers' joy of the English, white; graven- 

 !e(i«, yellow flowei-s in late autumn, the seed pods 

 very showy; DavitJiana, fine porcelain blue, fra- 

 gi-ant flowers, resembling minature Hyacinths; 

 rnJniffta^ white, one of the finest of the late bloom- 

 ing species. The varieties of Jackiiianii and 

 other garden \'arieties are too well known to 

 need more than mention. 



Xanthnrhiza aplifolia is a beautiful low shrub, 

 with chocolate-colored flowers and autumn 

 foliage. 



Most of the varieties of Pmoma Miiutan are 

 hardy, with fine, showy flowers. 



The Calycantluis floridus and tavigat'm (Allspice 

 bush) are desirable for their fragrance. 



Schlzamlra Chincnsia is a fine climber with fra- 

 grant flowers and scarlet fruit. 



Of the Moonseed we have three species, Menis- 

 permum Canadense, Dauricnm and Japonicum ; 

 they are good plants for covering posts or small 

 arbors, the foliage being of a rich green. 



The Akcbia quinata is also a fine vine for rock 

 work or trellises. 



Of the genus Berbcris, the best are B. Cana- 

 densis, a native species; B. vulgaris and its vari- 

 eties, with yellow, red, purple and white fruit; 

 and the variety with purple foliage. B Thun- 

 bergii, a fine low-growing species from Japan, Is 

 one of the best of all, being brilliant all winter. 

 B. Sieboldii, known in gardens as H. Hahodaka, 

 is also a good one. 



iberfe coi-iacca and Myssum Cneorum are dwarf 

 shrubs, with white and yellow flowers. 



HudKiinia tamcntosa and H. iricoidcg, two na- 

 tive shrubs, when once established, will grow in 

 the most exposed places. 



Hypericum Kalmianum andH. prolificum from 

 Lake Sujierior, and H. atireiint, from Tennessee, 

 are the best of the genus and bloom well during 

 the latter part of the summer. 



Actinidia p'llygaina, a strong rampant growing 

 vine from .Japan, has white flowers, and light, 

 green edible fruit, in size like a large (Jrape. 



Zaiithnxyliun Americamiiu (the Toothache tree), 

 and Ptfka trifuliata have inconspicuous flowers. 



Une (if Fuina Carbon in killing ground Vermin. 



but grand foliage, and the fruit is ornamental. 



Of the Holly family, which are hardy, we have 

 Prlnos rerticillata ( Black Alder), with both red 

 and yellow fruit, Itex bvingata and f. glabra 

 (Ink-berry), with black fruit and evergreen 

 leaves; also Nemopanthai Canadcnxin, with rosy 

 purple fruit. 



(To he continued.) 



CONDENSED GLEANINGS. 



Laying Out Tile Drains. Prof. Carpenter 

 gave in Drainage ,Jo\u-nal the following illus- 

 trated method for laying out ditches and leveling 

 the bottom. If no survey has been made we can 

 use the following method to determine the fall 

 and the grade line: At No. 1 in illustration we 

 set our first cross-bar and stakes so as to give a 

 depth of four feet. At the farthest distance that 

 can be seen we set another cross-bar and stakes 

 so as to give us the required depth at that iioint, 

 say three feet. To find the fall between these 

 two we have only to sight over a level of any 

 construction, from the first cross-bar to the last, 

 and measure the intersection of this sight line to 

 the cross-bar, which will serve to show it we have 

 any fall or not. After we find that there is suffic- 

 ient fall between the two cross-bars, any number 

 of intermediate ones can be set by sighting, and 

 accurately too. Leave these in until the tile are 

 laid under any given one and you will find the 

 work done with all the accuracy needed, and in 

 much less time than if you had attempted any 

 method which depended on leveling the bottom 

 itself. Subsecpiently Prof. Carpenter has recom- 

 mended the stretching of a cord tight over the 

 top of the cross-bars, and to measure from the 

 cord to the bottom of the drain to determine the 

 level required for the bottom of the ditch. It is 

 also necessary to have a tight line near the sur- 

 face of the earth to guide the ditcher in setting 

 the ditching spade. It is desirable to have the 

 sides of the ditch even and straight from point 

 to point at top and bottom, and especially so in 

 the bottom. 



Fnma Carbon Bi-Sulphide. Prairie Farmer 

 calls attention to this as a vermon killer, and 

 Illustrates how it is applied to the burrow of an 

 animal, (prairie dog in this instance). The sulp- 

 hide should be introduced well into the hole by 

 means of a rubber tube, being poured into a 

 connecting funnel from a can as shown. After 

 half an ounce or more of the sulphide is run in, 

 the tube is withdrawn and the hole covered with 

 earth. This liquid boils at 118° F. ; and, the half 

 ounce of it quickly diffuses itself throughout 

 the burrow, and acts the same as chloroform 

 would do. Indeed, bi-sulphate of carbon could 

 be used as an anajsthetic, e.xcept that its odor is 

 not too agreeable. The vapour is not dangerous 

 when breathed in the open air, but should not be 

 breathed in a close room. For rats: Send the 

 liquid well into the hole, and stop it up. For 

 weevils, etc. : Half an ounce per ton of grain in 

 a closed bin is sufficient. Saturate a cloth with 

 the liquid. For ants, etc. : Put a dose in the hole 

 and cover it up. The fuma carbon bi-sulphide is 

 not poisonous, nor will it Injure the skin or 

 clothes. If the vapour is inhaled in the open 

 air, it will not effect the operator. Keep it in a 

 cool place and away from the fire 



Brnssel Sprouts and Savoys. Many people ob- 

 ject to Cabbage and even to Savoys— Cauliflower 

 they have found uncertain in our climate, and 

 hard to grow without the aid of glass. For a 

 delicate form of Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts are 

 to be commended. They require a rich soil, and 

 if success is expected they must be abundantly 

 fed. The seed should be started early, and the 

 plants should receive the same treatment as Cab- 

 bages, but the sprouts last all summer, and should 

 be placed where they can have the whole ground 

 for the season. The plants grow with a large, 

 loose, Cabbage-like top and a tall stalk below, 

 over which Cabbage-like heads form, which can 

 be gathered all summer and until the hard frost 

 of the north may destroy them. In Virginia 

 they usually endure the winter, and furnish an 

 abundance of greens when planted late in sum- 

 mer. Boiled in clean water and dressed with 

 cream, the little heads make a good substitute 

 for Cauliflower. The plants grow tall and top- 

 heavy, and in small gardens it will pay well to 

 stake and tie them up.— W.F. Massey in G. and F. 



Preserving Apples and Pears. My aim is to 

 keep them in condition some months longer than 

 can be done on fruit-room shelves and on warm 

 dry boarded floors. I prepare a mixture as fol- 

 lows: 3 or 3 bushels of cocoanut fibre, I lb. of 

 powdered charcoal, 1 oz. of powdered sulphur, 

 and ^ oz. of salycilic acid, all duly mixed. Place 

 a layer of this about 1 inch thick on the damp 

 bricks or stones in as cold a cellar as you have- 

 temperature, say, :i5° or 40° at this time of the 

 year— then spread out the fruit evenly, then 

 more of the mixture just to cover the fruit, and 

 another layer of fruit and so on. The fruit must 

 be hand-jiicked, and treated as tenderly as eggs. 

 My .Jargonelle Pears are picked just before they 

 begin to sjioil on the trees, and before the birds 



spoil them. The ripening of the fruits will be re. 

 turdcd by their bcmg placed in these antisepticg 

 on the cold, damp floor of bricks or stones; the 

 materials mu.st be damp but not wet. I consider 

 this as following Nature a.s nearly as can be.— 

 Cor. Gardener's Chronicle. 



Exposing House Plants to the Sun. One of 

 our floral writers calls attention to the danger of 

 letting the pots in which our plants are growing 

 being exposed to the sun. We doubt if there are 

 not many of The Rural's readers who have never 

 thought of that. We confess that we never real- 

 ized the danger as much as we have since reading 

 the article of this writer. The fibrous roots soon 

 grow to the side of the pot, and these are 

 baked in full sunshine, trebly hot coming through 



CUT TILE DRAIN LAYING. 



glass which condenses its rays. The root tips are 

 soon killed. The whole ball of the earth is baked 

 over and over daily, and yet people wonder why 

 they don't succeed with house plants. Shade the 

 sides of the pots always, either by plunging in a 

 box of sand, moss, cocoa fibre or ashes, or place 

 a thin board on edge across the front of the 

 plant shelf that will come almost to the top of 

 the pots. A good way to screen them is to set 

 each pot in one two sizes or more larger, filling 

 the space with moss or sand.— Western Rural. 



Peach Yellows. According to my observation 

 the Peach is less liable to disease under high cul- 

 ture than when neglected, or on poor soil. On 

 the principle that yellows will appear under all 

 conditions, many growers give the tree little or no 

 attention, depending upon one or two good crops 

 for profit before the disease attacks them. This 

 is opposed to systematic good culture, and to the 

 careful orchardist is especially repulsi%-e. If cul- 

 tivators generally would study the practical part 

 of the subject, and note the conditions under 

 which the disease appears, and is increased, they 

 might render valuable assistance. The yellows 

 is no respecter of varieties or places. Where it 

 finds proper conditions for development there it 

 operates and continues its work of destruction. 

 However, we can unite upon the heroic rooting- 

 out and burning of any infested trees as soon as 

 the disease is discovered.— Josiah Hoopes in New 

 York Weekly Tribune. 



Boses Not Blooming. Mr. .Tohn.Thorpe, during 

 a brief visit to the Rural grounds, pronounced 

 some half a dozen tall Rose bushes to be Manetti 

 Koses. We had never suspected it, not being 

 familiar with this Rose, which is used chiefly for 

 stocks upon which to bud other Koses either of 

 feeble constitution upon their own roots, or those 

 that will not readily root from cuttings. This 

 Manetti is a very shy bloomer. It always has as 

 many as seven leaflets— rarely nine. It may be 

 known by this characteristic Have you any 

 Roses in your collection, readers, that do not 

 bloom? Perhaps in your case, as in ours, the 

 varieties budded upon them have been winter- 

 killed and the Manctfias, which ai-e great to 

 sucker, have grown up in their stead.— R. N. i*. 



Rolling Onions not Kecommended- Some three 

 years since as my Onion tops began to go down 

 I, for trial, forced down the tops of a number of 

 rows. In harvesting the crop I measured the 

 ground and the crop, also a corresponding 

 amount adjoining, and found a decided difference 

 in favor of letting nature do her own work, which 

 I have always done since. The present season, 

 soon after Onions began to mature and the tops 

 to break down it commenced to rain and contin- 

 ued at Intervals for two weeks. The Onions 

 commenced a new growth. It seemed necessarj' 

 to roll down the tops, but this had only little ef- 

 fect, as the growth continued.— Farm Life. 



Secret in Growing Roses. A congenial soil is 

 first requisite for success. That in which the 

 Rose deUghts more than any other is a deep, rich, 

 heavy loam, moderately moist. The Rose is a 

 gross feeder and will at all times resent neglect. 

 Poor soil will not yield good Roses. No, not even 

 poor ones. A liberal supply of plant food is ab- 

 solutely necessary. The amount of flowers is 

 proportionate to the growth of the plant; they 

 will appear just as fast as the wood is produced 



