Azotes and Gleaiimgs. 3 1 1 



Epiphytes. — The writer of the article " Florida Air-Plant," in the Decem- 

 ber number of this Journal, misunderstands, as well as the doctor his inform- 

 ant, the true character of the Tillatidsias that he met with in Florida, they 

 both calling them air-plants ; very properly rejecting the term "parasite," but at 

 the same time forgetting the term " epiphyte." The term '• epiphyte " is applica- 

 ble to a large class of plants (principally orchids) tliat derives its support mainly 

 from the atmosphere. The term ''parasite " is applied to a class of plants that 

 derives its support entirely from the tree in which it has taken up its abode : 

 a well-known illustration is the mistleltoe. Tiie air-plant proper is the genus 

 brides, named after ar, " the air ; " although I do not see with what propriety its 

 discoverer could have given it this name, — a name as applicable to hundreds 

 of other plants as to this. It is a well-known fact to every practical gardener 

 who is at all versed in plant-culture, that any and every epiphyte (for conveni- 

 ence' sake, taking any or all of the epiphytal orchids as an illustration) absorbs 

 enough matter from the atmosphere (either in the orchid-house or in its own 

 native habitat), with their thick fleshy roots, to support them, without their being 

 benefited to any appreciable extent from the trees, blocks, or rough-bark, as 

 the case may be, to which they are attached. The writer of the article in ques- 

 tion predicts that ere long the Tillatidsias will be well known and prized. I 

 will assure him that they have been well known in English gardens this long 

 time. Some of the varieties (there being about forty varieties, of a variety of 

 colors ; viz.. white, pink, blue, yellow, scarlet, purple, rose, &c.) are very inter- 

 esting. The large growing varieties will succeed admirably with the same treat- 

 ment that is given to pine-apples : the smaller varieties will do well fastened on 

 blocks of wood, and treated as the majority of other epiphytal plants are. /. C. 



Rochester, N.Y. 



Sowing Rose-Seed. — The heps should be gathered when ripe, early in 

 November, and kept entire in a flower-pot filled with sand. At the end of Feb- 

 ruary, or beginning of March, they must be broken with the fingers, and the seeds 

 sown in pans, which should be deep, — not less than eight inches in depth. They 

 ought to be well drained, and filled to within half an inch of the rim with two- 

 thirds loam from turf, and one-third sandy peat or leaf-mould, adding sand if the 

 soil does not contain enough. The seeds should be placed rather thinly, and 

 covered with half an inch of fine soil. The pans should have a good watering, 

 and be plunged in the open ground, in a sheltered but open situation. They 

 must be protected from mice by a covering of very small-meshed wire-netting, 

 which will also keep the soil moist from the sliade afforded, space being allowed 

 between the soil and wire for the plants to come up : three-quarters of an inch 

 will be sufficient. The soil should be kept moist. The plants will appear in 

 May, or earlier ; and, when they have three or four leaves, they may be taken up 

 and potted in small pots, be placed under a hand-glass for a few days, planted 

 out in good rich soil, and they will then make strong shoots fit for budding in 

 August or September. Very often the seed does not vegetate until the second 

 spring : the pans, therefore, should be allowed to remain until May or June of 

 the second year. 



