56 Notes and Gleanings. 



grow so strongly. The ground intended to be planted in spring should be 

 trenched in autumn, and thrown up as rouglily as possible, in order to expose 

 it to the action of frost ; and a good dressing of manure should be forked in. 

 In February or March, the ground should be forked over ; and, if no manure was 

 afforded at the time of trenching, it ought to be given now. If the soil is heavy, 

 leaf-mould will help to lighten it ; and so will sharp sand. The situation should 

 be open, free from the drip and shade of trees ; and if sheltered from wind, all 

 the better. The more sunny and open the situation, the better will hollyhocks 

 grow and bloom. 



Plantiii'^ and Aftcr-Treatment. — From the middle to the end of April is the 

 best time to plant for the general bloom ; whilst, for a late bloom, planting may 

 take place a month later. The distance apart may be three feet in beds ; and, in 

 borders, a like distance may be allowed from plant to plant every way: but in 

 the latter case I generally have the lines four feet apart, and put in the plants at 

 three feet from each other. In planting, make a good-sized hole, and fill it up, 

 or nearly so, with a compost of two-thirds loam from turfs, and one-third rot- 

 ten manure or leaf-mould. Put in the plants from pots in the centre, lightly 

 scratching the sides of the ball so as to disentangle the roots a little ; but, if the 

 size of the pots has been sufficient, this will scarcely be necessary. Make the 

 soil firm about the plant, and give a good vi^atering ; and, if the nights are frosty, 

 cover the plant with an inverted flower-pot, taking it off in the morning, and re- 

 placing it at night until all danger from frost is over. In dry weather, water 

 must be liberally supplied, especially in May and June, when the leaves are very 

 actively catering for the coming display. When the plants are advancing towards 

 flowering, and are in flower, thorough waterings, in dry weather, are also neces- 

 sary. 



Too many flower-spikes should not be retained. Two or at most three flow- 

 er-spikes are all that should be allowed on strong plants ; whilst one will be 

 sufficient for weak plants. All the others, or side-shoots, should be cut away as 

 they appear. The staking of the plants must be attended to early. Stout, but at 

 the same time neat, stakes must be driven into the ground, close to each plant, 

 and ought to be about three and a half feet out of the ground ; and to these the 

 flower-spikes must be tied as they advance. When the spikes have reached 

 a height of seven or eight feet, cut off their tops, if you want them for exhibi- 

 tion, and thin the flower-buds, so that, when expanded, there will be no more 

 flowers than enough to cover the spike ; and, if blooms or spikes are wanted lor 

 exhibition, they must be protected from rain and sun ten days before the show. 

 If not wanted for exhibition, the flower-spikes may be allowed to grow as tall as 

 they will, and the blossoms need not be thinned ; but I like to thin the flowers 

 a little, even in gardens, and to have there as good blooms as are seen in stands 

 at exhibitions, cutting off the tops of the spikes at some height. 



After flowering, cut down the spikes to within three or four inches of the 

 ground ; and, at the end of October, take up the roots, pot them, and winter 

 them in a cold frame. In sandy, well-drained soil, however, they may be left in 

 the ground ; and, this being lightly forked over, put a dressing of leaf-mould 

 round the plants, not very rotten, or short littery manure, and point it neatly into 



