PRACTICAL TREE SURGERY 32 1 



a rope and ladder are needed. The cuts should be made close to the 

 main tree trunk, so as to reduce the surface exposed to the action of 

 the elements. Cut surfaces should be cauterized and water-proofed. 

 The best antiseptic dressings are some of the creosotes, which destroy 

 and prevent the growth of wood-destroying fungi, because it penetrates 

 the wood better than a watery antiseptic. The antiseptic treatment 

 with creosote should be followed by painting the scar with coal-tar. 

 Lead paint is sometimes more available. It is useful, but not as 

 satisfactory, as a heavy coat of coal-tar. 



Cavity Treatment. — The removal of all decayed and diseased parts 

 of the tree should be accomplished first by the use of gouges, chisels and 

 scraping tools. The use of the chisels is assisted by a wooden mallet. 

 These cutting instruments should have keen edges for the cambium 

 may be injured by dull tools. After properly clearing away all decayed 

 material, the freshly cut surfaces should be treated with creosote and 

 heavy coal-tar which should coat the surface of the sound and healthy 

 exposed surfaces of the wood. The excavation should be so made as 

 to provide drainage at the bottom of the cavity, but the undercutting 

 should be done in such a way as to hold the filling material. Before 

 the filling material is added to the cavity, it may be necessary to place 

 one or more bolts in position to hold the tree shell firmly together. 

 Iron rods and wire netting are also sometimes placed in the hollow to 

 help reinforce the concrete, or cement, when it is mixed and ready 

 for use. The tree surgeon learns by experience the best methods of 

 procedure in the use of bolts, wire netting and the placing of the filling 

 substance. 



Mixing and Placing the Cement. — A good grade of Portland cement 

 and clean, sharp sand free from loam (i part of cement to 3 or less of 

 sand) should be used. The mixing can be done in a mortar bin, a 

 wheelbarrow, a pail, or in any other available receptacle. A mason's 

 flat trowel and an ordinary garden trowel with a curved blade will be 

 found convenient in placing the cement. A tamping stick, one or two 

 inches thick and one to three feet long, according to the size of the cavity, 

 will be needed, also some rocks to help fill the cavity and a pail of 

 water. As the cement begins to harden, the surface should be carefully 

 smoothed, so that it conforms with the general contour of the tree trunk. 

 Sometimes cloth, or wire dams are used. These are stretched across 

 the opening and a more liquid cement is poured into the space behind 



