THE GARDEN 27 



out, from the very root, unless you are desirous of obtaining a new shrub. 

 If this is the point in view, clear away all but the one selected sucker. Let 

 this be one that has sprung up some distance from the old tree. When 

 sufficient small rootlets have formed on its own root, take the spade and 

 cut down deeply between the old and the new, so that no connection is left, 

 but do not lift the new shoot yet. Leave it growing, just where it came up, 

 until next spring. By not disturbing it, those tiny new roots (and it is 

 really surprising how a few wee rootlets will keep the "sucker" alive) will 

 have grown into fair-sized roots, and if carefully lifted, with plnety of earth 

 around its earth-fibres, may be transplanted to its permanfiut spot. 



I have been told time and again by those who are considered authori- 

 ties on the subject, that it is an utter impossibility to secure from the 

 parent tree "suckers" that will grow into shrubs exactly like the old tree. 

 But I have not found this to be true. One huge old Persian lilac has sup- 

 plied many gardens with young trees, apparently exactly similar to itself. 

 From the countless young shoots that will persist in growing, sufficient 

 Bhoots, well rooted, have been produced to form a hedge nearly one hundred 

 feet in length, all exactly similar to the old tree. 



The white lilacs are the most difficult varieties to coax into bloom. If 

 they are not exactly suited as to soil, situation and exposure, to say nothing 

 of pruning, bloom cannot be depended on. Many amateur gardeners are 

 not aware of the fact that it is unwise to disturb the secondary roots lying 

 just below the surface of the earth. This is often done in attempting to 

 supply extra nourishnivent to the tree by digging around it trenches, and 

 filling these with manure. In most cases this plan does more harm than 

 good, because of the destruction of the net of earth-fibres an incli or more 

 below the ground. A much better plan is to saturate the earth around the 

 tree with rich manure water, made by filling a tub or barrel with old, well- 

 rotted stable manure, covering this with water, allowing to stand for a few 

 hours, then drawing it off in pails. 



A copious drink once or twice a week while the buds are forming will 

 produce marvelous results. 



LARKSPUR 



In English gardens, the larkspur is one of the mainstays of the hardy 

 border. There one may see every shade of blue, from deepest sky blue to 

 the most delicate shades of violet and amethyst, towering above the forest 

 of deep-cut gray-green leaves. In this Ontario of ours, however, we cannot 

 hope to vie with English gardens. It is not necessary to go into the 

 various reasons, even would time and space permit. 



However, many have earned a hard-won success in their gallant fight 

 to produce without spot or blemish, healthy larkspurs of the old-fashioned 

 type. But, unfortunately, their success is often too short-lived. The plant 

 of late years has been subject to a black blight — a fungous growth upon 

 the leav^ps — that bids fair to exterminate the whole species unless constant 

 war is waged upon the enemy. 



It is not a very pleasant sight to view a choice collection slowly wither 

 (after becoming more or less spotted and blotched) and die, Icavini? 

 nothing but the tall flower spikes standing. But such an experience is 

 common to only too many of our gardeners. 



The only remedy is the Bordeau mixture, used early. Not the least 

 use after the fungous growth has started, for then the ravages cannot be 

 undone. 



Larkspurs here may be treated as perennials, that is, the seeds sown 

 in early summer, the seedlings transplanted in September, and the roots 

 placed in their permanent places early the following spring. Bloom will 



