122 SUCCESSFUL FRUIT CULTURE 



several times cluriug the summer, as well as all laterals 

 on the new cane on the lower wire. A large amount of 

 foliage should never be removed from a vine at any 

 time; it is much better to stop growth when it has 

 reached the proper length. 



The winter pruning required after the vine has 

 become established, i. e., after the third year, is simply 

 to cut away the old fruiting cane at or near the point 

 where the new cane started, and cutting away all of the 

 laterals on the new cane. This w^ork may be done at 

 any time after the leaves have fallen and until about the 

 middle of March. After this date the vines are likelv 

 to be injured by bleeding. It is not best to prune when 

 the canes are frozen, as they are then very easily broken. 

 The common hand-j^runing shears (Figure 26) are used 

 for this purpose, of which there are many forms, those 

 having the flat spiral or wire spring being preferred by 

 the writer. 



Pruning Old Vines — In many gardens are to be 

 found old vines that have not been pruned for years, 

 and which produce fruit that is almost worthless in 

 consequence. The owner still neglects them because he 

 does not know how to take hold of the vine and put 

 it into shape. Such a vine, with a little care, may be 

 made productive and can be brought up in a few years, 

 to any system of pruning. The first thing to do is 

 to cut away all of the old wood, leaving only the 

 required number of new canes for the system of train- 

 ing desired. Any vine that is vigorous will have enough 

 new canes to fill up the trellis or side of a building 

 and will often produce as much fruit on the few remain- 

 ing canes after pruning as if the vine were not pruned 

 at all, and that of a much better quality. In case the 

 vine is not vigorous and has but few or no new canes, 

 the whole top may be cut off and only the desired 

 number of new canes be allowed to grow during the 



