THE OIIANGE 177 



PLANTING THE ORCHARD 



Orchards are started in two ways: (1) by planting 

 trees already budded with desirable varieties, and (2) 

 by planting seedlings (stocks) in the orchard and bud- 

 ding them after one or two years' growth. The best 

 stock for the extreme South is the sour orange, and for 

 Northern sections the hardy orange (C trifoliata). In 

 a general way the preparation of the soil, pruning of 

 the tree before planting, etc., are the same as for the 

 apple or peach. In planting an orange orchard or 

 grove, local conditions of soil, exposure and markets 

 must be very carefully studied. In different sections 

 the distance varies much, according to the variety grown, 

 the method of pruning and richness of soil, so that no 

 rule can be given. Enough room should be given for 

 the full development of the trees. 



Training the Trees — A round, low-headed, compact 

 tree with an abundance of foliage is the ideal condition. 

 If possible give the tree a slightly conical form by 

 keeping the leader or central shoot a little stronger 

 than the lateral branches. In other words, don't let 

 the laterals outgrow the leader. The low head has 

 many advantages. All the work of trimming, thinning, 

 spraying, harvesting and protecting from frosts can 

 be more cheaply and better done on low trees, and 

 less fruit will be blown off in case of cyclones or heavy 

 storms. 



Cultivation — As with other orchard fruits, the aim 

 should be to produce a vigorous and healthy tree. If 

 the soil- is naturally rich and drouth resistant, less cul- 

 tivation and less fertilizing material will be needed. If 

 the soil is very thin, even with a large application of 

 plant food, very frequent cultivation must be prac- 

 ticed. Where the supply of water for irrigation is 

 abundant, less plant food and less stirring of the soil 



