256 SUCCESSFUL FRUIT CULTURE 



and it becomes one-sided, falls off, or often cracks 

 open. Even if only spotted the quality of the fruit is 

 so injured as to be worthless. 



Ileinedy — Spraying before the leaves appear in the 

 spring with the strong bordeaux (4:4:50), and when the 

 leaves have opened with the dilute bordeaux (4:4:200), 

 will prevent its attack. It is best also to spray once 

 after the leaves have unfolded and at least twice the 

 last of July and early August. Paris green should 

 never be used on peach foliage, but arsenate of lead 

 may be safely used. 



Brown Rot, Fruit Rot, Twig Blight {Monilia 

 fructigena) — This is one of the most destructive of the 

 fungi attacking the peach, causing the rotting of most 

 of the early kinds and often some of the later kinds. 

 It also attacks the twigs in the hot, moist weather of 

 summer, often doing serious harm. The fruit is first 

 turned brown and soon is covered with myriads of light 

 gray or almost white spores. The branches attacked 

 are killed, while the fruit drops off or dries on the tree, 

 often remaining through the fall and winter. Such 

 varieties as the Alexander, Triumph, etc., very seldom 

 escape unless the ripening season is dry and rather cool. 



Remedy — All dried or mummied fruit should be 

 picked from the trees in the winter or spring and be 

 burned and the branches sprayed with the strong 

 solution of copper sulphate just before the leaves begin 

 to unfold in the spring. Otherwise the treatment is 

 tlie same as for the black spot. This fungus also 

 attacks all of the stone fruits, and none of the dried fruit 

 sliould l)e allowed to remain on the trees after new 

 growth of leaves begins, as the spores are sure to increase 

 the amount of this disease on the peach and other 

 stone fruits. 



Peach Curl (Exoascus deformans) — In seasons 

 when the weather comes on very hot in 31 ay so as to 



