NARRATIVE OF THE CRUISE. 233 



treatment does not subdue them, and then they are lassoed round the horns and dragged 

 back. 



" The various herds were driven in compact bodies against the walls bounding the 

 market, and some of the vaqueiros dismounted, and kept the cattle together by the use 

 of their thongs and shouting ; but one at least at every herd remained mounted, ready to 

 chase any animal which might break away. The scene was most exciting. Often three 

 or four cattle were loose at once and careering madly in all directions, jumping over ob- 

 stacles like deer, and with two or three vaqueiros after each, at full gallop, spurring their 

 little horses to the utmost, twisting and turning with wonderful dexterity. One wild 

 cow went right up the main street. She was very fast, and five vaqueiros had a sort of 

 race after her ; now one gained a little, now another, and it appeared as if the beast 

 were going to make off altogether; but at last a big black vaqueiro shot ahead, and threw 

 her sprawling in the road. I kept close to a sheltering corner, ready to retreat round it 

 when a beast came in my direction. 



" The cattle dealers rode round from herd to herd, on their mules and horses, and most 

 of the dealing was done on horseback. As soon as a herd was sold, it was driven off, one 

 or more vaqueiros accompanying the drovers, according to the wildness of the cattle. 



" In the middle of the open space horses and mules were being sold. The sellers of 

 the horses were mounted on them, and were showing off their paces in an open lane 

 formed amongst a crowd of buyers and on-lookers. The sellers made their horses amble 

 full pace up the lane, turn sharp round, and return : and on reaching the starting-point, 

 stop suddenly, without slacking pace in the least beforehand, in doing which the animals 

 were thrown almost back upon their haunches. The ability to stop thus suddenly when 

 in full pace is one of the points most admired in horses by Brazilians. 



" The horses are small, but well made. Good well-trained horses cost about £40. 

 Good riding mules are worth as much or even more. The Brazilians of the better class 

 ride their ambling horses with their legs straight and stiff and carried right forward, 

 with the toes turned up and the tips of the toes only resting on the stirrup irons. The 

 vaqueiros, however, ride much in the usual English fashion. 



" Sheep are used as beasts of burden in a small way in Feira St. Anna. I saw three or 

 four laden with small barrels of water slung across their backs. They were driven by 

 children, who were thus taking water from the well outside the town round to the various 

 houses. The sheep seemed perfectly trained, and went along at a smart pace. Sheep are 

 used as beasts of burden in Ladak to transport goods over the mountains of Little Thibet, 

 and carry from 20 to 30 lbs. 1 ; but their use for this purpose is very uncommon. 



" In the crowd we met with a German farmer, who was a friend of my companion, and 

 he invited us to pass the night at his house, his farm lying on the road to St. Amaro, by 

 which we were to travel. We had our mules brought up to the inn door, and there gave 



1 The Middle Kingdom, Williams, vol. i. p. 204. 

 (narr. chall. exp. — vol. i. — 1884.) 30 



