242 THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. 



sides to the apex, but does not really do so, as the slope from the peak, besides being 

 divided by numerous ravines, has on it several small extinct craters. The peak has, so 

 far as is known, never yet been ascended by any one except the sure-footed islanders, 

 although it has been occasionally attempted by others, notably by Lieutenant Rich in 

 1816 and Commander Nolloth in 1856. It is said to terminate in a cone, consisting of 

 black and deep red lava ashes, in the centre of which is an extinct crater, nearly circular, 

 a quarter of a mile in diameter, now partially filled with fresh water, the depth of which 

 has not been ascertained. There is a depression on one side of the cone, probably the 

 effect of an eruption. In several of the small craters there are also lakes or ponds of fresh 

 water, and some lodes of stiff yellow clay fit for brick making. 



It appears curious that the lake in the crater on the summit should not be frozen, as 

 the peak is seldom free from snow; and Lieutenant Rich, in his partial ascent in 1816, 

 found that the thermometer registered 33° in the sun, in the middle of the day, in 

 September. 



The geographical position of Tristan, long in doubt, was satisfactorily ascertained 

 by Captain Denham in H.M.S. "Herald." The summit is in lat. 37° 5' 50" S., long. 

 12° 16' 40" W., and Herald Point, the N.W. angle of the island, an eligible position for 

 obtaining observations, is in lat. 37° 2' 45" S., long. 12° 18' 30" W. ; and here one cannot 

 but refer to the general accuracy of some of the old navigators, especially to the pains 

 taken by some of them to ascertain the position of islands and shores, for Mr. Lewis 

 Fitzmaurice — of H.M.S. " Semiramis," Captain Richardson — remained on shore here, in 

 March 1813, four days taking observations, and made the lat. 37° 5' S., long. 12° 11' W., 

 variation 9° 51' W. ; and Captain Wauchope, of H.M.S. "Eurydice," in November 1817, 

 when at anchor 1 mile N.N.E. of the Cascade, made the position of his ship lat. 37° 1' S., 

 long., by mean of 20 lunars, 12° 1' W., and by chronometer, 12° 23' W. 



Rising abruptly from the sea as Tristan does, except in one small portion of its 

 circumference, its coast may fitly be described as ironbound. Vessels may approach it 

 to within a mile, or even closer, with perfect safety so far as depth of water is con- 

 cerned, for the soundings deepen quickly to 100 fathoms, so much so, that boats fishing 

 at anchor in 20 fathoms not infrequently swing into depths exceeding 100 fathoms. 

 Small beaches at the foot of deep ravines afford, with certain winds, landings here and 

 there all round the island, but the adventurous seaman who endeavours thus to explore 

 the coast line will find himself confined entirely to the strip of pebbly ground on which 

 he stands, for the precipitous nature of the cliffs prevents his mounting to the higher 

 land or walking along the base, the only exception being on the strip of comparatively 

 level ground on the northwest side, where the landing is good in all but northerly 

 winds, and from here the highlands may be reached and explored. All round the 

 coast, and in some cases extending a considerable distance from it, grow large quantities 

 of Kelp. 



